head gasket replacement help

[Borjawil]

09 journey. Got it for free. Looks like the plastic connector for the hose from the coolant reservoir broke and leaked coolant. Fixed it and im getting plenty of white smoke. Tried to bleed the system with the cap off and it just keeps blowing bubbles. Turn the car off and all the coolant drains. Try to fill the reservoir before it drains completely. Let the engine cool, and start it back up, and itll then start blowing coolant out from all the air bubbles. Leave cap on and i start to get white smoke from the exhaust. No white smoke with the cap off. Reads like a blown head gasket but correct me if Im wrong. 

 

So if it is a blown head gasket does any one know of a write up for the procedure. Not my first time replacing head gaskets, but want to make sure Im not missing any vital information for this specific vehicle. Usually its valve cover, intake, exhaust, then head removal. Any TTY bolts ill need to get? torque values? cam locks or other timing info?

[larryl]

The 09 v6 has a timing belt and the water pump is internal so they should be replaced

[Borjawil]

Ok. So on vw tdis there are special cam/crank locking tools to keep the timing when doing certain procedures. Is there something similar for the journey, such as placing the engine at TDC for cyl 1 or something similar? 

I searched here and through google and found no info on the procedure. A link to a write up or a service manual would be helpful if anyone has one. 

 

Also noticed there are kits with and with out the head bolts. Most head bolts are tty, but some are reuseable. Any info on those? 

[John/Horace]

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2009508

Great write up on link about  torque to yield heat bolts

 

Paint mark the belt on the pulleys, transfer marks to the new belt. Some cars have recess in block where bolt goes through pulley to prevent them from moving. Should be timing marks on cams and TDC on timing cover.  Mitchel is good for specs and procedures.

 

 

 

[Borjawil]

Purchased a kit with all new gaskets and head bolts. Any other bolts that are tty? Likely not if I don't have to remove cam hold down bolts. I'm sure ill find out more as I start taking it apart, but I know a lot of cam locking tools/procedures will hold things in place, however the timing still needs to be adjusted. For instance in my tdi Jetta specific computer software is needed to see the timing torsion value in order to get it between certain values. Usually bolts on the cam belt gear allow for adjustment. Anyone know if the timing is adjustable, software needed to read value, or if a scan tool is sufficient (if it can read the timing value)?

 

Still haven't found a write up if anyone has a link to one or free download for the service manual. 

 

One more question on Vin 8th digit letter for gasket set. When looking for a swappable 3.5 engine only the Sebring, avenger, and...maybe another vehicle besides the journey would work, and limited year. For the head gasket kit theyll include the charger and other vehicles under kits that work for the 09+ journey with the VIN digit "S", but say it'll work for the 09 journey sxt. But the previous gen kit for 06 journey 3.5 have the VIN digit "V or G". My digit is a "V". 

 

Edited April 28, 2020 by Borjawil

[Borjawil]

One other questions for those knowledgeable on rebuilds. I'm more versed with specific engines and there will always be mixed opinions. I usually use koppercote on my head gaskets before install. Not required on stock builds, but some times recommended. Opinions on using it for this engines head gaskets? 

 

What about using a sealant on the intake or other gaskets? I believe the kit comes with a (ceramic? Grey in color?) Sealant. Again in my experience most gaskets that are paper but have rubber seal on them near the actual opening of the part I don't use a sealant and have heard/read not to. Hell, most just paper/cork gaskets sealant isn't required or recommended. Just looking for opinions and experience. Do it right the first time ya know? 

[John/Horace]

Timing Is fixed on any vehicle I’ve ever worked on, the fixed number of gear teeth determining that.  Off one tooth is often 8degrees of timing which will make vehicle run like crap. Always rotate engine at least 360 degrees two turns clockwise after belt install to make sure all markings still good, tooth hasn’t skipped by accident on one of pulleys.

Dealer mechanic I knew used to paint mark existing belt and pulleys, just easy way to avoid mistakes. I do the same thing.

 

Tension on belt is however adjustable, although lots of vehicles have spring/hydraulic loaded tensioner. I would make sure to replace the belt tensioner because of how critical it is. Stretch tty bolts should only be on cyclinder head .

[John/Horace]

Aluminum on aluminum parts often have special gaskets that never use sealant, just clean parts with lacquer thinner.

 

They are MLS gaskets made with several layers and a special primer on outer surface for adhesion; they go on dry.

Ive used them on Yamaha snowmobile jug/piston rebuilds, work great. 

 

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/sealed-with-science-tips-for-perfect-head-gasket-sealing/

 

 

 

 

 

[Borjawil]

Thanks for the helpful info. On my Jetta TDI there is a bolt through the center of belt sprocket to cam, and 3 around that in slotted holes. Allows for adjusting timing. Wasn't sure if that was the case. But yes always mark the sprocket, cam, engine, belt, etc. To get the right tooth lined up. 

 

Seems pretty straight forward. Going to tackle it this weekend. 

[Borjawil]

About to remove the heads but want to make sure I got things done correctly. Used the free manual on this site under the maintenance forum for the 09 DJ, awful ads and loading each page (I ended up using alldatas site and paying and it's the same thing but easier to navigate). I'll be making a write up best I can. 

 

Pretty simple procedure, but the directions from the manual tend to lack information and skip around to different sections. I've read there's a locking pin and/or bolt for the crank and cams. Didn't see either of these options necessarily though there was a thread hole on the crank gear for the belt. At this point I'd like to clear that up for my knowledge. After removing the crank pulley/dampener you're able to remove the rear timing belt cover. There's a nub/pointer on the gear edge. I aligned this with the "TDC" molded pointer and the knotches on the cam gears aligned with knotches on the outer casting the covers come off of. Assuming this is tdc. At this point I removed the rocker assemblies and then the head bolts. There are covers for the cams on the driver side I removed to slide the cams out of these covers. 

 

at this point do I remove the heads? Belt and cam gears removed. Noticed the front cam bolt that is about a foot long can be removed, but the rear there's no way. Do i slide the rear cam to the driver side, lift the head from the driver side, and slide the head the driver side direction to get off the bolt? 

 

am I missing anything or other things I should make sure are aligned? 

[John/Horace]

Cams turn two to one ratio to crank shaft. So TDC is crank pulley pointer on timing cover lined up and cyclinder 1 is fully extended.

Usually pull out spark plug and check with screwdriver that piston is extended. Could check this on reassembly after belt is lined up.

[Borjawil]

Im on to reassembly and having some issues with my cam bolts. 

1) should the cam covers on the drivers side be on when tightening the center cam bolt? Assuming not since theres a tool made to hold that end, although the manual says to hold the bif nut on the pulley while tightening the 18mm center bolt. 

 

2) Should the pulley easily go on to the cam? came off pretty easy but seems to have some issues go on by hand. I can catch the key in the pulley on the cam by applying pressure on the face of pulley and end of cam. Once this was done i began tightening the center bolt to basically press the pulley on. Manual states 70ft lbs plus 1/4 turn. When at about 60ish ft lbs and the bolt is tight, i am able to move the cam left to right about a 1/4" as if the pulley isnt fully seated. Would make sense that the play isnt ok, however the plate that covers the end of the cam would keep it in place. 

 

3) I have a lot of extra seals/gaskets in my head gasket kit 2 different sets of round seals like youd see on the engine casing for the ends of the crank, or a motorcycle wheel hub seal. any kits or pictures dictating what each seal would be?