MoNab Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Hi all, my 2010 3.5l is over heating when you drive the car for a half hour, and there is no heat in the whole car. What could be the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Out of radiator fluid would be my guess. Armando G 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 probally a plugged heater core or as above very low antifreeze coolant jkeaton and Armando G 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FourthGauge Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 I had this issue on my jeep commander a couple years back.. .first time it was the thermostat... 10 bucks and 15mins fix.. second time it was the water pump failing. a few more bucks and mins, but it was easy on the jeep... not sure what it'd be like on a journey. jkeaton and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 My guesses would be: 1: low radiator fluid (check the plastic overflow) 2: stuck thermostat 3: bad water pump (internal, PIA) 4: blown head gasket a bad heater core Won’t give heat, but won’t cause overheating either....let us know larryl and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 How would I refill the coolant in the radiator if it only has a overflow tank. There’s no radiator cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Add coolant to the resevoir bottle, it should take what it needs jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 I’ve noticed now that it only overheats when I hit the gas hard and high rev. I’ve replaced the thermostat, is coolant is topped off but still overheating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 is the radiator fan working? that might be your problem if you are only over heating when you are hitting it hard, you might want to have it looked at by a garage or radiator shop before you over heat the engine and ruin it.. OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Could have an air bubble in it as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 How would I remove the air bubble? And yes radiator fan is working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 (edited) Allen key needed for #2 screw in picture for air bleeding. His 3.5 was over heating as well. https://www.chargerforums.com/threads/burping-the-coolant-system.320393/ If air lock comes back there air coming into system some where. Edited May 8, 2020 by John/Horace OhareFred and jkeaton 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 47 minutes ago, John/Horace said: Allen key needed for #2 screw in picture for air bleeding. His 3.5 was over heating as well. https://www.chargerforums.com/threads/burping-the-coolant-system.320393/ If air lock comes back there air coming into system some where. Are you sure that’s the right engine? Looks different to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 For some little context, I was driving it alL day today without any issues. It then started overheating, after I hit the gas hard. No heat in the cabin. Coolant started expanding and exiting the reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Look for bleeder screw on top of engine, should be there, the pic should be close. If air comes back it’s head gasket, water pump etc letting in air. Aluminumn engines don’t like to overheat, major damage quickly, unlike cast iron. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 5 hours ago, John/Horace said: Look for bleeder screw on top of engine, should be there, the pic should be close. If air comes back it’s head gasket, water pump etc letting in air. Aluminumn engines don’t like to overheat, major damage quickly, unlike cast iron. None that I see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 With the plastic covers in place on the newer cars, it’s pretty hard to see anything. The pic is the 3.6/bleeder screw built into plastic thermostat housing. jkeaton and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 On 2020-05-09 at 4:12 PM, John/Horace said: With the plastic covers in place on the newer cars, it’s pretty hard to see anything. The pic is the 3.6/bleeder screw built into plastic thermostat housing. I’ve found the bleeder screw. Tried bleeding it. Keeps overheating. The hoses that go to the front heater core front the engine one is cold one is hot. Replaced the heater core same issue, I’m thinking it’s a bad head gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 (edited) Try pressure testing system, could be reservoir cap or water pump or something letting air in system. On cars with cap on top of rad it’s sometimes easy to see air bubbles coming to the top with car started and cap off. One hose going to heater core is supply, the other is return. Often there is a bypass valve actuator controlled by hvac that enables flow to core. With air bubbles in system water pump cavitates and can’t push glycol where it needs to flow to, even if hvac is functioning correctly. Edited May 11, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLIEM Posted May 20, 2020 Report Share Posted May 20, 2020 On 5/5/2020 at 9:59 PM, MoNab said: Hi all, my 2010 3.5l is over heating when you drive the car for a half hour, and there is no heat in the whole car. What could be the issue? We have a 2011 Dodge Journey Mainstreet 3.6. I had no heat and was overheating within 10 minutes of starting the car. We replaced the heater core, cooling fan resistor, thermostat, coolant reservoir cap and then finally... we replaced the radiator and all was well!!!! Now due to the overheating, we have to replace the oil cooler and the oil pressure sensor. I am guessing it is your radiator with the overheating and the heater core for the no heat issue! I also think replacing the thermostat helped us a ton also. What made us replace the heater core was because it was leaking coolant onto the driver side floor board. Don't let it keep overheating, it caused us a slew of other issues! Hence why we are now replacing the oil pressure senor and the oil cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNab Posted May 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 I’m pretty sure that it’s the head gasket, going to buy a new engine and replace it. Better then replacing the head gasket if the heads are warped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 23, 2020 Report Share Posted May 23, 2020 Could try snake oil, even if it works for a few weeks you know it’s gasket then. https://www.amazon.ca/Bars-Leaks-1111-Head-Gasket/dp/B0036VRQ70/ref=pd_sbs_263_3/130-5296810-8687009?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0036VRQ70&pd_rd_r=317a39b6-63f5-40f3-9fc6-37565394959d&pd_rd_w=z5r2y&pd_rd_wg=7J5XT&pf_rd_p=0ec96c83-1800-4e36-8486-44f5573a2612&pf_rd_r=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR&psc=1&refRID=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR Combustion gas test kit for $80ish will confirm with dye in cooling system changing color. https://www.amazon.ca/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=pd_sim_263_1/130-5296810-8687009?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06VVBSFTF&pd_rd_r=317a39b6-63f5-40f3-9fc6-37565394959d&pd_rd_w=04wwV&pd_rd_wg=7J5XT&pf_rd_p=0283a3e9-a4fe-432a-a818-ec8cc83679ed&pf_rd_r=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR&psc=1&refRID=KRAYM4V2H167FHCT5AWR jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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