Shawn855 Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 When turning the wheel all the way to the right and driving over bumps I get a clunking that's coming from the steering wheel itself. Almost as if the steering column is loose and banging around. Only 80,000 km on this 2016 journey 3.6l. Anyone ever experience this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 Haven't had that happen. Front end noises tricky, lots of potential sources. If it sounds like column itself, there is a double universal joint right close to floor where steering shaft connects to hydraulic rack. Usually a high milage related wear item, so low probability. Most common front end rattles IMO our sway bar links or bushings. Sway bar transfers weight to opposite wheel as you go around a corner, so handling only. The end links can be unhooked and car driven to see if noise disappears, easiest way to confirm. Could even be c/v shaft, but usually you don’t feel that in steering, more of a knocking sound. Inspect outer boots for damage, grease leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 20 minutes ago, John/Horace said: Haven't had that happen. Front end noises tricky, lots of potential sources. If it sounds like column itself, there is a double universal joint right close to floor where steering shaft connects to hydraulic rack. Usually a high milage related wear item, so low probability. Most common front end rattles IMO our sway bar links or bushings. Sway bar transfers weight to opposite wheel as you go around a corner, so handling only. The end links can be unhooked and car driven to see if noise disappears, easiest way to confirm. Could even be c/v shaft, but usually you don’t feel that in steering, more of a knocking sound. Inspect outer boots for damage, grease leaks. The noise itself is high up in the steering, and can be felt in the wheel itself. I grabbed the bottom of the steering column and shook it around but it was on tight, so i'm wondering if its at the joint higher up, as seen in this image. I changed my sway bar links, as well as my stabilizer bar bushings so that rules those out. But again this noise can be pinpointed right around the circled area in the pic. Wondering if there's any bolts holding the top portion of the steering column in place, that loosened up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 The shaft with both universals is called the intermediate shaft I believe. I had to replace it on on my F150 at 200k miles. Needle bearing may have failed on upper universal, should not see significant play when steering is moved back and forth with car off. Pull back carpet padding at floor around shaft and look at amount of play in lower joint and compare to play in upper joint (asumming same style joint). Its not a good thing that Rockauto lists the steering column assembly for this vehicle. They usually stick to moving items with demand. Intermediate shaft should be sold separate as a dealer item only, probably $300 ish with taxes, hope I’m wrong. DODGE > 2016 > JOURNEY > 3.6L V6 > Steering > Steering Column Price MOPAR 5057549AD {#5057549AC} Info Tilt/Telescope Steering Column Without Steering Column Locking Slip Collar; HATCHBACK; AWD * Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day CAD$996.20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 ouch. Hoping it's something easy like loose mounting bolts lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 2 hours ago, Shawn855 said: ouch. Hoping it's something easy like loose mounting bolts lol. always check your local wrecking yards for parts that you might need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 I'll see if I can capture the noise on video and upload it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 (edited) Steering bolts probably installed with loctite. So I doubt it. If it is intermediate shaft need to be careful of clock spring wire for airbags. Seat belt wrapped through steering wheel so no turning more than 30 degrees during shaft change. Not that difficult a job normally. Edited June 11, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 The steering column from Rock is so pricy because it has the whole intermediate shaft with it. Here is just upper universal by itself, cheaper than I thought. https://parts-catalog.moparrepairconnection.ca/catalog-2/itemdetail/mopar-parts/55351444ad https://parts-catalog.moparrepairconnection.ca/catalog-2/itemdetail/mopar-parts/55351444ad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Thank you. That's much more acceptable of a price. Here are two videos showing the rattle/clunk when hitting bumps while turning the steering wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Wow that’s loud as hell and annoying. Sounds metallic, not rubbing plastic bits. My F150 steering shaft had no rattle but huge amounts of play In it. It was obvious the universals has too much play, at 200k miles. The shafts are designed in an accident to come apart and not skewer the driver. You have a few options to narrow things down. Paint mark universal and rack mounting shaft; then remove the shaft from the rack and see if there is play or clicking when the rack is moved full lock to lock, left to right. It’s possible sound is being transmitted into cabin from bad hydraulic rack unit. Test dash universal by removing shaft and flexing by hand checking for noises. Steering wheel can’t be moved more than approx 40 degrees without possibly affecting clockspring wire that triggers airbags. Unhook battery and be careful. Contact dealer and see what steering part they actually are stocking...the moving part is often the weakest link. Good dealers will mention when you are buying part they never ever sell and when it’s an item on back order because it’s sold so often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 Mechanics stethoscope on either end of shaft may be able to isolate noise. Pic is a princess auto chepo I’ve had for years. Diagnosing hardest part of car repair IMO. Throwing parts at a vehicle gets expensive fast. Summer Solstice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 The interesting thing is that this rattle hadn't gotten better or worse since I bought the vehicle in 2017 with 55,000kms. I've only recently noticed it more because I changed my strut assembly and now my suspension is stiffer so the noise happens a bit more often compared to when I had the stock mushy worn out struts. (I have the Monroe quick struts on now. Lifetime warranty yay!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) Interesting. Bad universal would get progressively worse imo. Bad rack might start to leak, or power steering pump start to get substantially louder. Could pay mechanic or dealer an hour to specifically diagnose problem. Make that clear, no top ten guesses but exact cause with firm repair quote. Can be difficult to get, lots of parts changers around. Weird odd ball stuff dealer should excel at, with more specific repair experience. Edited June 14, 2020 by John/Horace Summer Solstice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Yeah I have an apt with a mechanic tomorrow morning. Supposedly he's really good. Hope he is, because he was a bit of a jerk on the phone but hey, if you know your stuff and do your job well, then I'm okay with the sub-par attitude. I'll let you guys know the findings (assuming he figures it out, fingers crossed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 4 hours ago, Shawn855 said: Yeah I have an apt with a mechanic tomorrow morning. Supposedly he's really good. Hope he is, because he was a bit of a jerk on the phone but hey, if you know your stuff and do your job well, then I'm okay with the sub-par attitude. I'll let you guys know the findings (assuming he figures it out, fingers crossed) dont know about that, if they are a jerk before then probally a jerk afterwards as well, be careful what you agree to concerning $$ Summer Solstice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 What would be a realistic amount of money to pay to diagnose this? In Canadian currency lol. I'm thinking $100? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 well the dealership would probally be around 100-150 i would guess, reg mech should be a lot less after he takes a quick look with you there he should be able to give you a quote,my regular mechanics if they cant fix it they dont charge me anything,and actually had that happen twice... just check around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 I think in an hour a decent mechanic should be able to figure it out. If he says up front not good enough, I would bail. I try to avoid jerks, maybe just a bad day. If recommended through friends might be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Yeah, he told me to be there for 8am when he opens. I was there at 7:50am....then 8am...then 8:15 am...and he still wasn't there so i left. A shame, because he does have really good reviews but maybe those people are his buddies giving him those good reviews. Ah well. Have an apt at another reputable shop tomorrow morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 Good shops tend to be busier than crappier ones IMO. I would rather pay for a correct diagnosis than get a free wrong diagnosis. Around where I am you are expected to leave your car for the day for just about any car repair; which is why I do 95% of my own repairs. To do my cruise control flash, the work order showed around 0.2 hrs, car was there from 9 am until pickup at 2 pm. But warranty work I expect to be at the back of the line. Understandable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2020 Dropped off the suv this morning. Worried that i'm just wasting my time. It's so tough when the noise doesn't happen all of the time. I replicated the noise for the mechanic and he will check it all out but like i feel like i'll just end up paying for them to not find the issue. I think that's why i waited years before getting it looked at because i was waiting for the issue to get worse so it would be easier to exhibit the noise. Ah well. fingers crossed they find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 17, 2020 Report Share Posted June 17, 2020 so true on the waiting to get it fixed ,have been doing the same on my back up cam it has been acting up for about a yr now sometimes inop sometimes works but image is upside down for a sec or 2 then works right,but as of a few days ago it just quit either black screen or black screen with the words on it, i have the max warranty as well so it will only cost me the ded of $100,but since i have my wife's med scooter ramp on the back it blocks the view mostly, so kind of have been waiting on something else to need to be fixed before i take it in, i have checked the wires in thee upper rear boot no problems there.. oh well at least when i do take it in they will be able to see what is wrong with it....LOL good luck on getting your noise fixed things like that you can live with until it gets on your last nerve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2020 Thanks man. Hope you get your issue fixed too. Sometimes it's not worth the headaches of bringing it in. My brand new chevy cruze had issues from day 1 and the dealer couldn't figure out the problem so i just learned to ignore them and drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted June 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2020 Got a call back. They can't figure out the issue. Sigh. Guess i'll just learn to accept it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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