Borjawil Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 (edited) 09 3.5 fwd 115k - engine swap, new platinum plugs- they don't have the normal curved Tang for connecting to point of plug, but a split type end on the Tang. Just thought I'd throw that out there in case the plugs aren't correct. making progress on this car from hell. Had put together. Engine ran but had to give it gas or it'd die. Missing badly due to crank sensor not reading flywheel well. C12xx code for crank sensor and p0660? I think for crank sensor as well. Took back apart hammered the flywheel (bent in a spot), and back together now. No more crank code. One o2 sensor not connected cause one wire got pulled out. So dtc for sensor and one for air sensor on the airbox as it's not put back on yet. No other dtcs. Starts right up, runs rough, and there's a tapping from rear of the engine. It's not consistent. Almost like there's a dead cylinder/misfire or bolt bouncing around in the valve cover. Comes and goes but not consistent with idle or gas pedal/rpms. There is a fuel injector connector on that side that the clip broke. It's pushed on but you can pull it off without pushing the tab. Maybe bad connection? Just looking for ideas. How do I check for consistent power to plug coil (over head coil with 2 wires) and consistent connection to fuel injector? Other ideas on what it could be? Appreciate the help. Almost there. Edited June 11, 2020 by Borjawil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 Going to test by pulling plug to plug coil then to injector and see if there's any difference. Will update shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 (edited) Had a p0300 for random misfires, and now several restarts and just a misfire in cylinder 1. Swapped injector out same thing. If I remove either coil or injector plug there's no change. I get a code set for coil plug, not code set for injector plug, when removed. Going to go ahead and swap the coil out, then spark plug if the issue hasn't changed. Edited June 11, 2020 by Borjawil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 Not able to help but TY for keeping everyone informed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 No problem, figure it'll help someone diag their own issues. Swapped coil from other engine and no longer a misfire code or inconsistent rattle. I do have a tapping noise that is consistent. Maybe valve noise? Not sure. Only code is p0038 for bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor. Swapped with used, same code. Manual is iffy on o2 sensor locations/connectors on harness side. To confirm swapped bank 2 or front most side of engine sensor connectors and got a code for bank 2. Makes sense. Swapped rear most (firewall side) and either get p0038 or p0032. I have my higher or bank 1 sensor 1 connected to connector on passenger side or front of engine, and sensor 2 to the trans or back of engine side. They reach each connector about the same. So that's no help. If anyone can confirm correct side that'd be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 If they are correct p0038 identifies high voltage on that bank 1 sensor 2 circuit. Ideas if sensor is ok? I may swap the 2nd sensors around and see where that gets me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted June 11, 2020 Report Share Posted June 11, 2020 (edited) If injector is firing there will be a click felt if long screw driver is used like stethoscope. Node light plugged in harness will show if it’s getting signal from ecm. O2 code could be bad plug or injector or coil, or intake gasket. If on previous engine the 02 sensors functioned ok, sensors probably ok. Engine sitting for a while, could be stuck lifter, I have used snake oil like STP and had it fix a sticking lifter. How is coolant leak, is it fixed? Edited June 11, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Also won't rev past 3k Same o2 sensors as before but not sure if there was a dtc for it. I'll double check injector with screwdriver. Coolant leak not fixed. The two o-rings about a half dollar size between timing housing and block was leaking. Trying to find replacements but can't seem to find the correct part number. Any help on those two and the bigger one for the water pump? Not the squiggly one, the bigger circle one also between housing and block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Well misfire in cyl 1 solved. Dtc came back when I drove the car from driveway to street to move it. Spark plug Tang was smashed into the electrode some how. No idea. Replaced, started a few times, revved engine, rechecked and new one isn't smashed. No idea. Still have o2 sensor code. Need to swap the sensors yet, but I also have a leak where the cross under pipe meets the rest of the exhaust, so going to fix that first and see if it resolves it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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