dhenderhan Posted July 23, 2020 Report Share Posted July 23, 2020 2016 Journey SXT. I came out of the house this morning to go to work and the left front side clearance light and upper running light (both yellow) were on. I cycled the light switch several times, pushed all of the buttons on the fob, and started and killed the motor. No change. They are the only two lights on and only on the left side. I had to go to work, so I left it in the driveway to investigate later. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 (edited) WAG day time running light issue, is it enabled on the vehicle? Are there any after market add ons, like a trailer wiring harness? Edited July 24, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhenderhan Posted July 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 Not sure what you mean by WAG. Not sure about the daytime running light setting, I'll check when I get home. No aftermarket items. No recent repairs or changes at all, just randomly appeared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhenderhan Posted July 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 Ahhhh....looked it up in other posts. Caught me off guard. (I'm used to seeing SWAG for Scientific WAG....lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 U.S. rarely has day time running lights enabled, so not likely problem. I think I would get at the plugs that feed both bulbs, look for corrosion or wiring damage. Try removing each bulb and looking at contacts on bottom of bulb and inside the harness plug. You do have the automatic head lights on vehicle? The dash switch could have bad contacts, bit on a long shot. Try swapping out light relays under hood, sticking contacts are possible. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,electrical-switch+&+relay,headlamp+switch,4472 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhenderhan Posted July 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 Daytime running lights are enabled, however, upon searching wire harnesses at the front left corner for signs of damage/short I discovered that the problem had disappeared and the lights returned to normal functions. However, now the front blower motor doesn't work. I find it difficult to believe that the two issues aren't related somehow. Rear blower works fine. Checked both fuses (one under hood-40 amp and two under dash-10 amp) and replaced the relay under the dash, no change. No voltage at the connector on the motor itself. Fan switch is a circuit board that isn't diagnose-able (at least by me), but it does register on the screen that you are turning the fan control when it is moved. Suffering without air conditioning is one thing, but not having heat is going to be something else this fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted July 27, 2020 Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 Weird. Left front means driver front side away from hvac fan correct. Fan control relay resister usually lose a few speeds and eventually you have just full speed straight battery voltage. But it is possible for full failure I think. Rock-auto only list the rear fan speed resistor as a stocked part, front must rarely fail since they are one of bigger on line sites. Fan should run if given ground and power with plug unhooked. That would point to relay problem. jkeaton and OhareFred 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhenderhan Posted August 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2020 Update: In an attempt to run power to fan motor, crossed wrong connection at the fuse box and fried a capacitor in some module. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the module, and then found where a bolt had rubbed through the blower supply wire in the bundle that runs under the radiator at the front. Probably would have cost me $50-100 if I would have taken it to them in the first place, but it ended up taking two days for them to troubleshoot what I fried, replace the module, and find the broken wire in couple of hours and ended up costing me $700. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 21, 2020 Report Share Posted August 21, 2020 Thanks for update, might help someone else in future. Electrical automotive tricky sometimes. Without drawings hard to diy properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.