John/Horace Posted September 15, 2020 Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 I changed plugs at 148k, it’s now been 40 k on the NGK iridium plugs. Change interval is I think 160k kilometers. A shake on cold start up high idle, engine not in closed loop mode can be normal on lots of cars. Engine running rich on default start up parameters. Misfire however not normal, not enough power at plug/coil to cleanly burn fuel. There is no maf to clean on these engines. Catalytic converters can get wrecked by cyclinder misfires so it is important to deal with them fairly quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 (edited) Sorry I meant the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. I always interchange the two terms lol. Last question for now lol: I know everyone and their grandmother say to change all spark plugs at the same time but do you think I can change just the 1 plug and coil for testing purposes? Just because changing cylinder 1, 3, 5, spark plug involves 5 minutes of work vs an hour+ of work to change 2, 4, 6 plugs. Edited September 15, 2020 by Shawn855 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 15, 2020 Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 (edited) It’s fine to change one plug and or coil. The factory plugs are Champion, not one of my favourites. Although Monsieur Champion invented the spark plug, Ive had mixed results at times. NGK makes majority of plugs on the market, even AC Delco are owned by them now. Buy the laser cut irredium that have the same 160k rating. The platinum/irredium tip can fall off a spark plug and create a premature failure. Then generate cyclinder misfire. I had it happen to a six month old Motorcraft Ford plug a few years back. Doesn’t hurt anything, usually just exits out the exhaust valve with no damage. If your plugs have only 80k on them I would leave the other plugs for now. Edited September 15, 2020 by John/Horace Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 Awesome. Thanks man. I'll report back my findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 15, 2020 Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 Number 3 is in the middle at the back of engine, not easy access IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPcJNbQ-87U&t=349s Skip to 2:30. Just involves the removal of that intake piece. Once it's removed, I'll have access to the back row. He struggles with removing the piece at first but it came out. John/Horace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 I don't have to remove the intake to replace the cylinder 3 spark plug.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Changed all my spark plugs. Still a misfire on a random cylinder. Last time was 3 and 5. This time it's 1 and 4. Same coils. Brand new plugs. Lol. Oh well. Next summer I'll change all the coils. Also, changing the plugs was incredibly easy. You guys can do it no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 26, 2020 Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 I changed plugs 2 years when doing oil cooler leak, which is a fair amount of work. Had lower intake etc removed. Plugs by themselves isn’t terrible I agree. How were the coil boots? You can buy them separately, one of mine split apart during removal. If you are getting more misfires after new plugs, maybe some of them got damaged. Coil assembly has new boot automatically included. Misfire moving around cyclinders is sometimes pointing to intake manifold air leaks. The lower intake has O rings that can be changed. Coils don’t usually work and then suddenly not work properly. Plastic intake could be affected by temperature and air flow. Misfires can mess up catalytic converters, not something to let slide IMO. Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 The coils themselves had grey soot at the end of them where they connect to the plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 26, 2020 Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 None of mine did and I had no misfire codes. Normally a small dab dielectric grease is put on both contact end to prevent arcing. The coil boots are only few bucks from Rockauto, https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,ignition,spark+plug+/+coil-on-plug+boot,10150 Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Hahaha no I don't. It's just way cheaper than every other store in my neck of the woods (Ontario, Canada). Even with shipping, the parts are still 30% cheaper than my local parts store and I get a 25% discount at my local stores. I've only had two bad experiences with them. One, my quickstruts didn't fit my Chevy Cruze properly and they accepted the refund but I had to pay for the return shipping ($150..ouch). The second time was they sent the wrong part. Also their shipping has been fast for me. Sometimes I get the parts 2 days after ordering them. I'm sure you lucky Americans have cheaper alternatives out there but us Canucks arent so lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 27, 2020 Report Share Posted September 27, 2020 (edited) And the other important detail, they often sell OEM parts cheaper. So no comprise on proper fit. Heavy stuff like rotors usually not worth buying because of shipping costs. People close to border can even buy items with recore and drop it in USPS mail next time they cross border to get their credit. Edited September 27, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 27, 2020 Report Share Posted September 27, 2020 On 9/26/2020 at 10:48 AM, Shawn855 said: Hahaha no I don't. It's just way cheaper than every other store in my neck of the woods (Ontario, Canada). Even with shipping, the parts are still 30% cheaper than my local parts store and I get a 25% discount at my local stores. I've only had two bad experiences with them. One, my quickstruts didn't fit my Chevy Cruze properly and they accepted the refund but I had to pay for the return shipping ($150..ouch). The second time was they sent the wrong part. Also their shipping has been fast for me. Sometimes I get the parts 2 days after ordering them. I'm sure you lucky Americans have cheaper alternatives out there but us Canucks arent so lucky. that is one reason i dont like to buy parts thur the mail,, i live in Alabama and i use advance auto part stores and buy thur retailmenot.com . I buy it on line and then drive down to the store right away and pick it up (if in stock of course) and using the retailmenot.com I always gets a great discount usually $ 20-50 off depending on the cost of the parts, it works with other car part stores but not as good of a discount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carter3Journey Posted October 1, 2020 Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 Specifications SPECIFICATIONS NOTE When refacing a rotor, the required TIR (Total Indicator Reading) limits MUST BE MAINTAINED. Extreme care in the operation of rotor turning (machining) equipment is required. LIMITS/SPECIFICATIONS Brake Rotor Rotor Thickness Minimum Rotor Thickness Rotor Runout * Front 27.87-28.13 mm 26.4 mm 0.050 mm 1.097-1.107 in. 1.040 in 0.002 in. Rear 11.75-12.25 mm 10.4 mm 0.050 mm 0.463-0.482 in. 0.409 in. 0.002 in. * TIR Total Indicator Reading (Measured On Vehicle) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Hey shawn855 were you able to get rid of the cyclinder misfire issue. Was it coils ? Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted December 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Kinda. After changing all 6 spark plugs, the misfire was less severe but is still there. Where before on a cold start the SUV would vibrate quite a bit for 10 seconds, now it vibrates less severe, but vibrates for about 15 - 20 seconds. When checking the obd2 tool, it was showing different cylinders misfiring than before. So I'm thinking of changing the coil packs on all 6 next summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Remove the intake air tube attatched to air filter. Inspect it really closely for small cracks where the pleats are. The cracks open up when the engine moves and allows extra air, creates misfires, I’ve seen this on Hyundai cars before, it’s a possibility. Bad coil doest move around, it’s the same code coming back after clearing to same cyclinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted December 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Good call. I'll take a good look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Even loose clamp or gasket at joint not installed right. Extra air coming in somewhere. Lower intake seal etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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