Towing Setup - 2011 V6 with small trailer and bikerack

[NavalLacrosse]

Towing setup: 
Tractor: 2011 Dodge Journey 6V Crew - FWD

Trailer: 2004 Aliner Alite 400 - Empty weight 475lb, max weight 1,000lbs, tongue weight 80 empty, - 200 lbs max.

Bike Rack: Walmart Special: $69 (nice) dollars. Two bikes, totaling under 80lbs.
Dual Hitch Adapter: Amazon $39 dual 2" Hitch Adapter.

Wiring: Curt Wiring Adapter for Journey w/ LED tail lights. (bought on amazon, fullfilled by etrailer, made by CURT, cost less, and faster shipping)

Comments:
It works, It could be better, it could be safer.

The Good:

• It all works, and this configuration keeps my fuel economy basically the same for high speed driving. Now is: 14 city, 23+ hwy
• Great visibility
• Journey can easily low 1000 lbs of junk without needing to much forethought into braking distance and longer acceleration times.

 

The Bad:

• The tongue weight of the Dodge is rated to 400 lbs(?)... I like to consider that term as a interpretable value, as it does not account for hitch torsion: my tougue weight is less that 280lbs, but it's 10" greater distance with my extendor, meaning my hitch torsion is nearer to 400ft-lbs, which is the same as loaded to the max capacity with a standard hitch. Torsion bar would fix this, but really- I'm not going to do it for a 500lbs camper.
• The added hitch length makes a noticeable difference as far as handling is concerned. without the extender, the trailer loves to play nice. With the extender, it likes to sway. It's still stable at highway speed, but 1) you can tell the steering is lighter (because of the tongue weight) and 2) the added length of the hitch mucks with the harmonics(*) and stability; It settles on its own, but don't expect it to have a '1 overshoot correction', for my stability experts out there. It'll 'overshoot twice before correcting'. Fine, and safe, but a little weird when the steering is light. probably will be an issue in snow or slick roads. remind me to keep it slow, if it starts raining!

 

The Ugly:

• The bike rack hangs between the trailer and the car. You can see in one image, my tightest able of turn leaves me only 2" before the camper's front wall. caution must be used while turning, especially in reverse.
• My setup necessitates removing the bike rack before coupling the trailer. This was something I tried to avoid when selecting parts, but it was unavoidable.

 

 

Recommendations to others:

Put the bikes on the trailer's neck. This will improve the trailer's sway considerably (especially if the bikes account for 10% of the camper's weight). This would eliminate the need for a wacky dual hitch adapter that I have, and would ultimately improve overall safety and handling. 

Put the bikes on the trailer's neck (again). This will allow you to couple and decouple without as much headache.

CURT's Wiring Harness for Journey w/ LED tail lights is a must have.

 

Edited September 11, 2020 by NavalLacrosse
added one more thing.

[5rebel9]

Nice write up and pics!

   IF our AWD Journey was more "robust" in the drive train department, our Journey would be MY ride and not my son's.  For a couple weeks each summer, I load a trailer filled with 3 face cords of winter firewood each trip of 20 miles LOADED for 5 runs for my home's winter augmented warmth. I seriously doubt any hitch or Journey model could take that kind of "towing". My 04 T&C with factory tow package (Nivomat rear self leveling shocks) handles the task very well with just some increased braking distances and sane driving speeds up 2 big hills to traverse when loaded. 

   The journey can come close as an all around use vehicle, but not quite as good as my mopar minivans or going to full sized SUV or pick up truck.

     Here in the "States", I thought that only powertrain offering was the 4 cyl FWD OR the 3.6 with AWD, did I miss something???????

[NavalLacrosse]

the V6 FWD was available in earlier models nearer to 2011. It shares the drivetrain of the 3.6 Caravan.

 

AWD models was offered or standard on most GT and Mid-upper trim models. These trims are the most popular, and probably why you can't find FWD V6 nowadays as the AWD is the Defacto setup. 

In 2011 The DJ Mainstreet and CREW trims had options for FWD and AWD V6's. Most people took the AWD option, and the R/T and the LUX both came standard with V6 AWD.
I don't know when (or if) they stopped selling the V6 FWD models, but I can see why. the AWD feels better to drive to drive on all surfaces, and doesn't torque steel as badly. It makes sense they are so popular.

[5rebel9]

I knew about the first gen's having a V6 (3.5) and AWD or FWD, I'm not a "fan" of that 3.5 or even the 2.7 for that matter. When looking to replace the son's Neon(04 base), I wanted an AWD and have always liked the 3.6 motor for his next ride. Been around Dodge/Chry. for a LONG time, and our particular '11 model seems to fit just right for what we intend use for. 

    Nice to read that possible future install of a light duty hitch and small trailer IS doable.   

[NavalLacrosse]

A blast from the past:

[NavalLacrosse]

(posted earlier to the wrong thread!)

I ultimamently  did not use my original setup due to safety concerns. 

 

The extended next effectively doubled (2.5x) the tongue weight of the camper, and not only did it cause stability issues but reduced steering substantially. 

 

I removed the dual adapter and extender and moved the bike rack to the camper's tongue via a sideways mounted 2" receiver bolt on for an RV rear bumper. This solved every issue. I did not even feel the trailer unless I was stopping (in which case the distance was Notably longer) 

 

Final recommendation, don't use a neck extension at all on the dodge journey for Towing at speed. It might not have been a real issue, but I didn't want one small swerve on the highway flip the dodge due to my idiotic stubbornness to use the hitch I bought. 

 

Thanks 

Edited September 23, 2020 by NavalLacrosse