dshepherd04 Posted October 13, 2020 Report Share Posted October 13, 2020 Hey everyone. I have a 2014 Dodge Journey R/T - AWD. Recently had the spark plugs replaced and it's still idling rough. Next step appears to be ignition coils. My question is, do I have to remove the intake again to replace those? I wish the shop would've done that along with the spark plugs if so, but they didn't. Anyone know of an online manual that could walk me through this process? I've seen some YouTube videos online but nothing that quite matches my year/model Journey. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 13, 2020 Report Share Posted October 13, 2020 Short answer is yes the upper air intake has to come back off to do coils(or plugs for that matter). Idling "rough" can mean so many different things....Is the Check Engine Light(CEL) flashing when you drive the car or is it turning on while driving? These mean a problem and has set a code(s) in the car's computer, that need to be retrieved and posted in their alpha numeric format for members to be able to help you. Idling "rough" could also be poor spraying fuel injector(s). How many miles and what maint has been done other than the new plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshepherd04 Posted October 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2020 Just the park plugs for this go around. Our Journey has roughly 106,000 miles on it. Prior to taking it in the check engine light was on. Took it to autozone and it read 6 cylinder misfire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 13, 2020 Report Share Posted October 13, 2020 So, NO CEL after the plugs but "idling rough"? If a bad coil you should still be getting a flashing or steady CEL when driving. I'd more believe a sticky fuel injector at those conditions. Try a can of SeaFoam fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, run it thru and see how it may change for the better as the cleaner works thru. NOTE...this is not an instant fix result. BUT if you are getting CEL again, get the codes read and posted here, many possibilities and without codes responses are GUESSING. Summer Solstice, dshepherd04 and 2late4u 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dshepherd04 Posted October 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said: So, NO CEL after the plugs but "idling rough"? If a bad coil you should still be getting a flashing or steady CEL when driving. I'd more believe a sticky fuel injector at those conditions. Try a can of SeaFoam fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, run it thru and see how it may change for the better as the cleaner works thru. NOTE...this is not an instant fix result. BUT if you are getting CEL again, get the codes read and posted here, many possibilities and without codes responses are GUESSING. Rebel, thanks for your feedback. At this time there is no CEL after the spark plugs were all swapped. Prior to the fix, it would flash at times and then came on to stay. I had AutoZone print the code for me and I’ll see if I can find the paper tomorrow. I’ll try the SeaFoam and of course if the CEL comes back on post the codes. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Smallberries Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 Sorry to be the Newbie to hijaack this thread - but I have a related question. My 2013 3.6l has 101,000 miles and I'm planning to dive in and change the plugs this weekend. I have watched a few YouTube videos - there are many little parts to remove. My key question: While I'm that far in, should I replace the coils as well? I don't have any symptoms of a bad coil AT THE MOMENT. My local AutoZone sells a bundle of all six for $130 (Bosch). It seems like good insurance while the "patient is open". What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 (edited) Great question. I changed my wife’s 2014 plugs at the same mileage without codes. If you can’t get a good price on the dealer plugs. I used the NTK plugs without any issues turning up. I’m not a fan of Bosch parts on anything but German cars (which I have owned). I think OEM stuff is usually the best, provided I’m not getting gouged I try to use them. I reused my coils but I did have one of the rubber spark plug extension adapters get damaged during removal. They call them coil on boot plugs, they can be tough to remove; I would have a least one on hand before you start job. Pain to chase parts afterwards. The boot adaptor can be bought individually. My plan is to replace all coils on the second plug change, if we still own the vehicle. The coils are an electrical/electronic part. This type of part can experience something called electronic crib death; basically failure in the first few hours or minutes of use. The combination of Bosch aftermarket and possible early part failure would make me pass. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. Edited December 4, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Smallberries Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 Thanks for the feedback. I called my local dealership and they want $277 for a set of six. The Mopar Direct website shows them for $27 each vs. the $19 for the Bosch parts at AutoZone. I think I'll take your advice and leave them alone and be very careful with the extractions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 4, 2020 Report Share Posted December 4, 2020 (edited) The replacement boot adapter was around $8 with tax for one of them. Lot's of twisting and a warm day helps them slide off. I have heard running the plugs beyond proper change interval can be hard on coils. Larger gap extra arcing etc. If you were at 150-200 on original plugs I would have said change coils. Edited December 4, 2020 by John/Horace John Smallberries 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Smallberries Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 The plug replacement went smoothly. FYI - here is what a set of untouched OE plugs looks like after 101,000 Michigan normal driving miles (no towing, no commercial, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 3 hours ago, John Smallberries said: The plug replacement went smoothly. FYI - here is what a set of untouched OE plugs looks like after 101,000 Michigan normal driving miles (no towing, no commercial, etc.) that looks like a big spark plug gap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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