Dead car twice in a month 2015 SXT FWD

[journeylemon2020]

Less than 2 weeks ago, I left work only to find my 2015 Journey SXT FWD (owned from 141k to current 154k mi) wouldn't start. Everything electrical working fine, but wouldn't crank. ETB symbol showed up for the first time ever, but went away with all other lights. Starter was replaced with 100% new and flooded plugs were cleaned by mechanic.

Car was running fine at 7pm tonight; I go out to go to work at 10:40 and here we go again. It tries to crank, but won't. Brake pedal can't be depressed at all. 
Attempted to put button start in RUN position, then shift to neutral and attempt start. Doesn't work.
Cam shaft heads have already been replaced when they were discovered to be on the way out.
The only other factors I can see as a regular car owner is that when I'm idling at a stop light, my headlights seem to flicker with car movement. Battery connections and terminals appear fine; no corrosion. My check engine light is always on with same misfire codes, but those pieces have been replaced. Mechanic mentioned something about finding someone with a compression tester for future diagnostics?

I'm typing this at work hoping someone else has any idea what this could be before my mechanic (hopefully) responds in the morning. I've already put $1k+ worth of work into this piece of crap and I haven't even had it 6 months. It's about to start impacting my job, and it's unacceptable.

[Summer Solstice]

There is a fuse block under the hood that some have found to have corrosion problems.

 

Have you reset the check engine light only to have it come back? If so, what is the code?

[2late4u]

i assume you have had the alt checked since you say the lights dim while at a light,also some have said their problem with dead batteries was the fuse that controls their blue tooth and by pulling it ( the one under the glove box solved their problems)good luck and please report back on what you find to be the problem

[Armando G]

As mentioned, get the battery and alternator checked. I assume you got a good price for it and got it checked before buying? Seems like you have had issues from the get go. A fresh battery seems to do wonders for these cars.

[NavalLacrosse]

Sarcasm: 
I think you oughtta replace the transmission first, before checking the battery and alternator- 

 

Serious:

Check your battery. Can you get it running on a jump from a jump-pack or another car? If so, you're looking at new battery and maybe a new alternator.

[G-man]

JourneyLemon 2020 did you ever figure out what the issue were with your vehicle?

 

[OhareFred]

The op was a 1 post wonder that never came back...

[journeylemon2020]

Hi all,

We had it jumped and replaced the battery. Battery appeared to be original, so it was a good replacement anyway.

Funny thing is, on my way to the shop with the new battery, I plugged my phone into the cigarette lighter charger for a quick boost, and the car fried my phone. Completely killed it. Not even the mechanic knew why this happened. So, replacing my $500 phone was a nice touch and tab to add to the costs of owning this car.

 

The need for jumping hasn't happened again (yet). However, I'm still having electrical issues such as flickering lights (internal and external), heat output ebbing and flowing with the idle of the car. I plan on replacing the alternator this weekend, per the advice of the mechanic.

 

[14WhiteRTRallye]

 

 

[John/Horace]

 Varying  heat the first thing to check is glycol level; low level can cause this to happen.

Also bad dash electrical actuator switches. Common issue if you search site.

Fried phone very strange, fuse should have blown on outlet.

My wife’s alternator puked at around 100k miles, a little early. 
Original battery on 2015 , surprising.