DodgeaWrench Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 Looks like its my turn to have the dreaded oil cooler leak. I noticed a few oil spots on the driveway under the vehicle. I got an engine oil leak. 2014 DJ SXT 3.6 FWD 122K miles With a flashlight, I can see oil in the valley where the oil cooler is installed. I pulled the upper intake to confirm it wasn't from a sparkplug tube or valve cover. No luck. No leaks from these. (I had fixed an oil leak into a spark plug tube during the Summer. I was hoping the leak was from something I had done as this wasn't too difficult.) Temps were at or just below freezing and while pulling the intake, the plastics used in the wire looms and electrical connectors were brittle. I'll have to monitor oil level closely and wait until Spring to do the oil cooler replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 Might as well do spark plugs at the same time. If you are in there that deep. I replaced the lower intake seals with oem stuff, don’t want to go back in there again. Use an inch pound torque wrench on those low torque fasteners. Die electric grease on the plugs to the oil temp and pressure sensor plugs on harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted January 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 Good suggestions. Plugs were already replaced. I'll add the oem seals and grease to my parts list. I'm not sure if in it comes any other way from Mopar, but regardless I'm going to purchase the full oil cooler assembly. It includes the the oil temp and oil pressure sensors installed. p/n 68105583AF engine oil filter adapter $201.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) The seals are for the plastic lower intake that is removed to get to heat exchanger. Seals compress over time and from being under compression. If money is tight you can reuse the seals, but IMO a little bit of risk involved and lots of time if one seal leaks vacuum. The new assembly has no dielectric grease on the two plug connections (or at least mine didn’t). Most mechanics put a dab on new plugs, helps if moisture especially salt water gets on the plugs. Copper coated electrical connections can still corrode, these plugs are pretty awkward to get to after unit is installed on engine. I think FCA is subsidizing this part a bit; something this size and complexity on cars is usually quite a bit more money than what they are charging. Edited January 14, 2021 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted January 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 The lower intake, bottom seals, will be replaced. Agreed, I too prefer to minimize the risk of having to go back in this deep. The lower intake, top seals, were replaced about a year ago when the plugs were changed, and will be reused. (6) p/n 5184331AC Intake Manifold Gasket $8.41 each The O rings for the engine oil filter adapter will also be replaced. p/n 68191356AA O Ring Kit $9.74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) The new Unit comes with them already installed. Edited January 14, 2021 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humansoul Posted March 9, 2021 Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 Chiming in on this - I was just told that I too have a leaking oil cooler. The parts + labour at the dealership was $900(Canadian) - OUCH! I called around and I spoke to my local mechanic who just did the same service job on a Caravan and noted this is a really bad design for Chrysler given it's plastic parts and strain. What makes this worse at this point is the part is back ordered due to many failures and with the overall COVID situation, so I may be parked for at least 3-4 weeks. The cost at my local was a few bucks less, so I'm probably going to go with the dealership to avoid any inspection charges. But this is a PITA and wondering if FCA has a recall notice for this part given the amount Pentastar engines are driving around with this terrible engineering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humansoul Posted March 9, 2021 Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 To add on to this topic, I will ask them to the spark plugs and lower intake seals. Is there anything else I should request that could potentially fail and would rather not them repeat all the labour done this time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted March 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 When I changed my plugs, I found that one of the spark plug tube seals was leaking. I had to replace the tube seal, and also replaced he valve cover gasket. I'm not suggesting these be replaced, but just know that there is the possibility of an additional expense lurking if additional leaks are found. Hopefully not. Depending on the car's mileage and age, if there is any reduction in cost for having it done at the same time, one to think about is replacing the thermostat, This is a common failure point. Mine failed. My understanding is the coolant has to be drained when replacing the oil cooler. By replacing the thermostat at this time you could possibly save the cost of a coolant flush/fill later. If cost difference isn't significant, not a consideration. I have yet to replace my cooler. The weather has finally started to turn warmer here. I've already received my replacement part. Hopefully I can get to it soon. John/Horace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted March 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2021 I started the oil cooler replacement this afternoon. I got the old one out, sucked up the pools of oil, and cleaned the intake surfaces on the engine. The sun has gone down and the temps have cooled off. I'm done for the evening. So far the worst has been unlocking and unplugging the electrical connectors on the fuel injectors. This took several trips back to watch YouTube videos and a few prayers to not break a connector. Tomorrow I'll start with cleaning the underside of the lower intake, replace those gaskets, then assemble everything back together. Add fluids, pray again, then start'er up. I need to rewatch videos for adding back the antifreeze and letting the air out. Summer Solstice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 New cooler is in and car is running. Yipee. I'll drive it a bit more tomorrow and check for new leaks. Barring any troubles, so far I'll call this a day and a half project. 2 things I learned that I didn't notice in videos: - The size of the inverted torx socket needed for the bolts on the oil cooler is an E8. Murphy's law - I didnt have this size and had to run out and get one. - After reassembly and starting the engine for the first time, the oil pressure shot to 90 (H) and stayed there. I was worried. I checked the new oil filter to make sure it was wet to somewhat confirm oil was circulating, and it was. When first leaving the driveway, the pressure went up to 92, then dropped to 88. At least electrically it was working, versus a disconnected or shorted wire. Then it started to fluctuate downward to normal. Whew. My guess is it had to recalibrate? (Or maybe I never notice what the oil pressure is when the engine is first started.) Summer Solstice, larryl and OhareFred 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summer Solstice Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 I've often noticed the oil pressure around 90 when the vehicle is cold and during idle. As it warms up it begins to come down. It drops during acceleration and rises during idle. Once warm, it stays in the 40's range. It's been that way for the 3.5 years I've had the Journey. The dealer always does the oil change and uses the specified oil. Hope the repair is done and everything works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted March 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Thanks Summer Solstice for letting me know how yours runs. I guess I just never watched the oil pressure before. I've been watching it closely this week, and its been very similar to what you described. Normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted March 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2021 quick update... so far the engine is still running and no leaks. (fingers crossed) - tip: After the old cooler is removed, when cleaning out the oil and grime in the valley under the cooler, do a very very good job cleaning out this area, mainly in the area that would be around/under the oil filter. This is the are you will be checking, with a flashlight, for leaks after you are done. I did an ok job cleaning this area, but ended up dabbing in paper towels after the fact to get it as dry and clean as possible for better inspection. This inspection are is small and deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny_162 Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 On 3/14/2021 at 7:25 AM, Summer Solstice said: I've often noticed the oil pressure around 90 when the vehicle is cold and during idle. As it warms up it begins to come down. It drops during acceleration and rises during idle. Once warm, it stays in the 40's range. It's been that way for the 3.5 years I've had the Journey. The dealer always does the oil change and uses the specified oil. Hope the repair is done and everything works out. I do believe you have that backwards, the oil pressure should rise with RPM (accelerating) because the pump is turning faster, and should be lowest at idle when the the oil pump is turning slower. Ezpeezy15 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 2 hours ago, johnny_162 said: I do believe you have that backwards, the oil pressure should rise with RPM (accelerating) because the pump is turning faster, and should be lowest at idle when the the oil pump is turning slower. NOPE he is right on a cold start the oil pressure goes high and then slowly comes down as the engine heats up as well as the oil till it rest at idle,,,, and then if you race the engine the pressure goes up and then when you let off the gas it comes down.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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