crank sensor and misfire problems

[Bryan]

hello, i have a 2010 journey with 160000 mi. the other day i was driving and it stared to misfire and the check engine light started to flash.went to the part store and had the code pulled and it was the crank sensor code and a misfire code. changed the sensor and gave it a test drive and it was still doing the same thing. put another sensor in and changed the spark plugs. test driven again and still not running right.idles ok start to drive in a couple hundred feet it starts to misfire when you turn the car off and restart it run ok for a couple 100 ft then the same thing happens, 

 

any thoughts im at a loss

[John/Horace]

Welcome to the forum.

Should use oem crank sensor for a critical ignition component, it’s not much more $.

You could still have a bad coil still that is causing a plug to misfire.

What  engine is it.

How long was it driven with the flashing engine light ? 
Who did the work, mechanic ?

Edited February 23, 2021 by John/Horace

[Bryan]

it a 2.4. it was only driven about 10 miles with the light flashing. just long enough to get it home. i just did a hard reset on the computer last night.and changed the plugs.it still not running right.

[John/Horace]

They are usually plug and play on most vehicles, I’ve changed cps on  five or six different vehicles before and never had to program one, just lucky I guess. Is it a Dorman sensor or oem?  Auto relearn needs a proper scanner unit with the right up to date software, there are suppose to be ways to manually reset.

Pasted from a another Dodge forum is a procedure. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

 

 

The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature. 
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want. 

The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition 
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable. 
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it. 
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min 
5) Remove key from the ignition. 
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable. 
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!! 
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature. 
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds. 
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE! 
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s) 
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet. 
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time… 
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want. 

The third way: 
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent) 
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!) 
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so) 
5) Turn key off 
6) Re-install fuse 
7) You're good to go 

... and last. This is from a past DT thread:

You can do what is often called a "hard dump".

We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".

First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.

Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.

Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.

Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)

Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming. 
=============================================

The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects. 
=============================================
 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 27, 2021 by John/Horace

[Bryan]

i did the hard reset last night.disconnected the neg pos terminals zip tied them together oven night. hooked it back up today still has the same problem.wondering if it could be a computer problem.

[John/Horace]

ECM rarely fail on most vehicles IMO. I have heard of it happening on occasion. I would swap in a mopar sensor first, maybe pay dealer to try and do an auto learn before dropping $450 on a guess. But before that you need to check other stuff first.

 

When was the timing belt and tensioner changed on the engine? If you can remove part of one of the upper timing covers, I would.  Rotate crank shaft slowly and inspect the exposed belt very closely; look for fraying of belt or more importantly a few damaged teeth on the belt.  If belt has jumped a tooth engine will run, but shake like hell being out around 8 degrees of timing.

If that is problem, change belt quick before bending valves when belt slips more. 

[John/Horace]

Oops I thought it was the 3.5 belt engine, the 2.4 is a chain. Ignore that comment about belt. Is there excessive chain noise when the engine is running ? 

[Bryan]

no chain noise its a pretty quiet engine.

[maro]

@Bryan

Hello, Is the issue fixed ?? I have similar P0300 and Crankshaft position sensor error. I replaced CPS and still the same

[schalid]

I know this is old,,,,but none of these relearn ways worked on my 2010 Journey 3.5.

[JennyRebecca]

Didn't work on mine either.

[Melody]

Can anyone help me I am at a loss and don’t know what to do.   I bought a used 2016 dodge journey from house of cars.  No damage no accidents.  Right away it started stalling or losing power.   They replaced crankshaft sensor and it worked great for just over a month.   Then it started happening again.  I took it to dealership and they replaced it again with part and labour warrantee.   about a month later again it failed.  Dealership said they thought I should replace computer as it could be causing crankshaft sensor to fail.  So we replaced that and a few other things    Two weeks later crankshaft sensor again.   They didn’t replace crankshaft sensor when they replaced computer and the code for it was there and now they are balking at replacing it again.   They don’t know why it’s failing what’s causing it.  They can’t tell me for sure that replacing it again now that computer has been replaced wouldn’t fix issue but they don’t “think” so.  Iam ready to pu my hair out and can’t afford another car  

[John/Horace]

Crank sensors don’t jut go bad in a few weeks. They should be closely inspecting and using a multi meter to test the wiring on the CPS sensor. It sends a signal to ecm computer to keep car running. It’s a low voltage signal and a damaged wire can creat intermittent problem.  Another possibility could be reluctor  ring has slipped. Is the check engine light on right now?

 

What is a reluctor ring?

 

 

The reluctor ring is mounted on the crankshaft so that as the crankshaft rotates the magnetic sensor is triggered by notches in the reluctor ring. The magnetic sensor provides position information to the electronic control module, which governs ignition timing.

 

Magnetic sensor is the CPS crank position sensor.