2014 JD - Replace original brakes after 125K

[DodgeaWrench]

Just shy of 125K miles its finally time to replace the brakes on the JD.  If it wasn’t happening to me I wouldn’t believe they would last that long.  (I’m aware of the undersized brake issues on earlier years.)

 

Being the OEM’s worked so well, I’m going to replace them with genuine Mopar rotors and pads.  The plan is that with a known track record for the OEM this should be the first, last, and only brake job needed for the life planned for this car while I’m the owner.

 

The weather is supposed to be good.  This weekend will be the rears.  I went out and borrowed the brake tool press to turn in the calipers from the local auto parts store.

 

After more research than I was planning to do on brake lube for the pins, I plan to use Napa or AGS Sil-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant.  Hopefully I can find it locally.  If not a good choice, let me know. I believe I can use it for metal to metal touch points too.

 

 Silicone, synthetic, ceramic, operating temps, grease, lube, rubber, ….  Sheesh.

 

[probak118]

We are talking only the rears at 125K and first brake job correct ?  Either way, you outperformed the 2:1 ratio I assumed, anytime brakes on a DJ lasting is news to celebrate; unfortunately our 2012 is not that lucky  LOL

[jkeaton]

Yeah, they did a bang up job upgrading the brakes in 2012. 

[larryl]

If they would have done it from the beginning they would have saved themselves much anger from people (Caravans also)

[DodgeaWrench]

I'm only doing the rears this weekend.  The fronts are still original.

Even though there is still a little time left on the fronts, I'll call it a win and replace them too.  Very soon, but just not this weekend. 

 

Other DJ projects planned for this weekend to catchup from winter:

- wrap up my oil cooler replacement from last weekend (do final visual check for any leaks, recheck fluid levels, etc)

- replace serpentine belt (still original and will be replaced due to age/mileage)

- check the battery and begin oiling the battery cable clamp bolts for later removal (battery is still original and it will be replaced this summer due to age)

- if I get brave I will make an attempt to replace the torque convertor solenoid on the trans solenoid pack (downshift issues).  I have another thread open on this subject.

 

CLEAN THE WINDOWS and vacuum!  Time to remove the winter session of the dog window art, winter fries under the seats, and lottery scratcher dust.  LOL

 

 

 

[DodgeaWrench]

[This is about the rears only.  The fronts were not touched.]

 

The bolt and rust gods were good to me.  The rear rotors and pads have been replaced.  On inspecting the old pads, they did not wear evenly.  The passenger side were significantly more worn that the driver side.  At the time I didn’t think twice about this given the number of miles on these pads. (The passenger side was the side making a noise when apply brakes, hence the reason for the pad and rotor replacement.)

 

Now the rub.  Everything went back together well, but after driving the day, I see that on the driver side, the pads are not being pressed onto the rotor.  The rotor is untouched.  It still looks as if it just came out of the box, where as the passenger side at least has the markings on where the pads touched the rotor.  My guess is the driver side stopped working some time ago hence its pads were not as worn as the passenger side (which is still working correctly).  The car never pulls to one side or another on braking both before or after the rears were replaced.

 

When compressing the piston on the calipers they acted differently.  On the drivers side (bad side) I slowly kept turned it in until I felt resistance then stopped.  I assumed it bottom out.  On the passage side (good side), I slowly kept turning it, but it never got to a point of resistance.  It did compress all the way in, but just kept turning even though it wouldn’t go in any further.  As they acted differently on compression, does this mean anything?

 

The guide pins moved smoothly, both on inspection after initial disassembly, and after cleaning and lubricating.

Brake fluid level is good.

I have not done anything yet to troubleshoot.  I have not tried to bleed anything.

 

I’m starting my research…  Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot or should I just order a replacement caliper?

 

 

The picture below is of the driver side rotor.  It still looks this way after a day of driving with the cross machining marks and no signs of a pad touching it.

 

[Summer Solstice]

I just did the left rear brake two weeks ago, with the other 3 coming up. I used the inexpensive tool made for turning the calipers in. This one turned in fine. I did not bottom it out but watched the seal as a guide.

At that I still had to hand ratchet the parking brake a number of times to work the gap out of the pad to rotor. Once it was close, it adjusted in during the first daily commute. Before changing the pads and rotor, there was no question that they were in contact prior to disassembly. 

[2late4u]

i would say yes replace the caliper,and also do your front pads at the same time as since you will be having to bleed the lines as well

[John/Horace]

If sticking in place and seizing I would buy a reman caliber.  If piston not hitting pad I would play with it. Could be air trapped in caliper.

 

Small 3” piece of clear hose attatched to bleeder screw and then open bleeder. You may see a few bubbles rising with fluid.

Cycle parking brake a few times and gravity bleed the non working caliper a few times afterwards. The air should work it’s way out, make sure reservoir doesn’t get too low.  Second person keeping pedal pressure as it goes to floor gets the air out even faster than gravity bleed. Might end up with a reman caliper anyway if it starts to seize up on rotor. Worth a try to avoid extra $’s.

 

The piston should have self adjusted by either pedal pressure or parking brake cycling, normally. Manually moving parking brake lever is hard with the cables attatched. Repeated  pedal cycling might avoid bleeding, another option.

 

Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

 

 

Edited March 23, 2021 by John/Horace

[DodgeaWrench]

I'm hoping to get a chance to look into it further this weekend.  I'll definitely check for air / bleed first, as suggested.

 

I saw a video on how to check the piston movement by pulling the caliper off the rotor, stick in a piece of wood to block the piston from popping completely out, but still leaving some room for the piston to move, and have someone push on the break pedal.  If good, the piston should move.

 

I watched a few videos on rebuilding the caliper.  Anyone rebuilt their own?

If Im going to replace the caliper, I might as investigate a rebuild first.

I got a kit on order, 7 bucks from NAPA.  Assuming the piston isn't pitted, a rebuild kit isnt too much more than replacing 1 internal o-ring, the dust cover rubber, and a new snap ring for the dust cover.

It doesn't look technically difficult, but I bet its a project where a colorful vocabulary is used frequently.

[John/Horace]

Rebuild not that bad unless really seized. If no scoring or pitting on piston or casting, seals just swapped.

If piston only damaged a new piston can be bought sometimes. Compressed air to push out piston can be useful.

Sylglide or equivalent needed for seal lube.

[DodgeaWrench]

Back in March, I never found anything definitely wrong with the rear brakes.  I did bleed the rears for grins, and on the one side in question, I did disassemble, and watched the piston move when the brake pedal was pushed.  It seems to have worked since.  No pulling to one side and no rust forming on the rotor from lack of pads not applying pressure.  Oh well.

 

Finally I got around to replacing the original fronts today, at 131,000 miles.  They STILL had at least another 30,000 mile left on them.  Crazy.  They are considerably larger pads than the rear.

 

As they had never been replaced, the front rotors did not want to come off without a fight.  Just penetrating oil and a hammer was not enough.    It really wasn't that bad, but I did have to borrow a puller from the local parts store.  After cranking tightly on the puller, then banging the poop out of the rotor from the back side, finally got it to pop.  The rest of the job was textbook.  Not that I was going to, but there was no reusing the original rotors after removal.

 

I went with OEM replacement pads and rotors all around.  Assuming I did the replacement correctly, I am not expecting to have to due another brake job for the life of the vehicle in my ownership.  Beside being long lasting pads, our driving miles have greatly reduce as no more out of state college trips (which is why we bought this car) and eventually covid.

 

Changed the oil and filter today too.

 

Nice to get these checked off before winter.

 

Looks like replacing the tires are starting to move up the list.  While doing the brakes I can see the tires are starting to wear thin.

Replaced the original tires at 58,000 (dont recall the make or model)

Got 73,000 miles on the ones on the car now (Firestone Destination LE2 225/65R).

I'll probably go with those Firestone's again if still available.  The tires have performed well and the local shop has given me good service and good pricing over the years.

 

[2late4u]

lol back when my 2014 had 70 k on it i ordered front and rear pads (thermoquiet from Wagner) went to change them and hell the fronts only looked half wore out but thought oh well change them out anyways, did all four corners well well thought id check them today, have close to 120 k so about 50 k on this set,,,still looking like over 50 % of pad left and rotors are still looking  great as well no shudder or pulsations on the brake pedal as well , so I wont worry about them till around 150-160- k i guess,,,one note tho i havent really liked these Wagner  ( seams like a lot of dust off them  I think they have cheapened them up from yrs ago, I wouldn't buy them again just go with OEM or Akebona which are supposedly who makes the OEM pads.

Edited September 12, 2021 by 2late4u
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