what to do..Dash and Infotainment staying on

[5rebel9]

2011 3.6 AWD with 4.3"(?) small screen.

   Instrument cluster and infotainment screen staying powered on. NOT door latches as dome lights go off after proper set timer. Not glove box light as it's off. Play around with push start and things turn off for about a minute then turn back on. It did this once about a month ago and I thought that son had not fully closed the Drivers door. It just did this to me after a short drive with it and after an hour the inst. cluster and infotainment screen are still on.

WHAT TO DO?

[NavalLacrosse]

sounds like an electrical gremlin.

Do the oldest trick in the FCA book and give it the 40 minute negative terminal yank. see if a total computer restart fixes your trouble. 

Try keeping a good batt tender on the car. does a healthy charge on the battery when you turn the car off resolve the issue? if true, then you're in for a new battery. maybe the battery is starting to go, and the computer is loosing it's marbles, and thinking the ignition is on.

are you keeping the key fob a proper distance from the car? it might be sensing them, and priming it's computer systems 

Edited April 8, 2021 by NavalLacrosse

[5rebel9]

after working for 4 hrs. with my buddy that I got this DJ thru ... A complete scan of electrical and BCM functions showed it a code for the headlight switch not being correct. We swapped one from a "twin" parts car and all was good for codes. Still having the instrument cluster and 4.3 screen WILL  initially power down(off), BUT within a minute it comes back on and stays on. Right now I've disconnected the 2 ground wires from the strut post to save the 1.5yr old battery.

   Found on various google searches that a BCM power glitch OR even the instrument cluster to be the culprits, we are both doing searches at this time trying to get a handle on this situation.

[John/Horace]

BCM tricky to shoot with so many connections. If you can swap it out from parts car, with identical options, might save some time. I think the proximity door locks trigger the cluster to light up when they see activity. Are they functioning normally.

[5rebel9]

1 hour ago, John/Horace said:

BCM tricky to shoot with so many connections. If you can swap it out from parts car, with identical options, might save some time. I think the proximity door locks trigger the cluster to light up when they see activity. Are they functioning normally.

Found a couple saying BCM and one that said no help. Found a couple said it was in the instrument cluster pod, one was from Dodge dealer shop foreman. BUT alas NO DEFINITIVE resolutions found as of yet.

Have access to inst. cluster pod and BCM, neither are "5 minute quicky" removals, and rains are in the forecast for the next couple days and have to work outdoors!

   Any help appreciated, and YES all things function normally other than this problem.

[5rebel9]

After thinking about this as I drifted off to sleep last night.......

   I'm going back to "old school" diagnostic thinking. 

the car is 10 yrs. old and 185k miles. 

2 items that are involved with this concern have switches that get a LOT  of use/wear. First being the drivers door latch that has switches for lighting and door close, BUT those function. SECOND being the push start switch. I'd noticed that this lights up first closely followed by instrument cluster and then the 4.3" screen. THIS item has me strongly wondering about contact wear causing the problem.

   Just "throwing this out" for anyone following here and may have thoughts.......

Edited April 9, 2021 by 5rebel9

[2late4u]

Might be a great time to trade it in on a new vehicle or maybe a new Journey as since it is the last yr on them there should be some great deals on them, wouldst want to sell it to anyone but with a dealership they are always trying to screw you so i wouldn't have ant problem dropping it on them as they are just going to wholesale it off anyway

[5rebel9]

4 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

Might be a great time to trade it in on a new vehicle or maybe a new Journey as since it is the last yr on them there should be some great deals on them, wouldst want to sell it to anyone but with a dealership they are always trying to screw you so i wouldn't have ant problem dropping it on them as they are just going to wholesale it off anyway

WELL, that's one thought about the situation! 

   SORRY, but that's not an option. Car is in too good of shape overall to let go less than a year after getting it being a Maryland (Southern car) that was brought up to our Northern rustbelt area.

This is so far not costing me in $$for this problem and previous repairs have been dealt with quite fairly. Just my time and effort...which gives me something to do, AND learn about these new fangled highly computerized systems. Remember, I'm not the average car owner. I used to do this for a living, but retired about the time all this BCM controlled stuff came along!  

[NavalLacrosse]

This is going to sounds extra dumb.... but:

if you do nothing at all, will the screens' backlight turn off after a few minutes?

I know that my 2011 dodge will randomly 'turn on the screen backlights' and adjust the vent positions even when it's been off for a few minutes completely quiet and dark. This happens, then the screens illuminate while the computer is busy mucking around with the vents, then turns off after 40 seconds. This 'screen on' mode happens in a number of normal conditions, but each time will turn off after 1 or two minutes. sometimes longer.

If you walk past the car and don't touch it (with the key in your pocket) - The screen backlights will illuminate as the computer turns on, expecting the door to be opened open. nothing will display, but the backlight illuminates.

If the car is locked, (and you DONT have the key)  and you try to unlock the door, pull the handle, push the little button on the handle, or push the lock button on the truck: the car's screens backlight will illuminate (the computer will turns on) because i knows someone is pressing the button; it turns on and tries to sense the key.

Edited April 9, 2021 by NavalLacrosse

[5rebel9]

Well it's not the push switch.....   ;(

 

   Your 2nd part response does make some sense as I did repair drivers door broken wires for sensor unlock in the door handle at time of purchase.  as it was giving message on dash to service key(?) Have not had any "messages appear since. ALL those systems seem to be working FINE. Also we would routinely leave fob in the cubby(on dash)at home with no problems before this happened. I'm still wondering "old school" about faulty latches that may not have the micro switches working properly in the latch assemblies.

[5rebel9]

Go0nna go pull the BCM and gage cluster from the "twin" tomorrow. and quite possibly the 4.3 screen and attending module. Dash is easy enough to work on to try, the BCM is in one heck of a spot in the A pillar behind the glove box!

[5rebel9]

OK the saga continues. I decided to leave my friend alone for the weekend (so that we might remain friends). Have spent hours searching and getting all kinds of complaints with FEW actual success postings.. Also went and tore into the center dash again and took out the battery and had it tested, It was good but only at 55% charge, understandable as it was not put on a charger, but it's back in and on a 2amp trickle charge with the neg unhooked from the body point.

  Now what I found were many complaints of radio not shutting off with door open and a number of them said head unit itself(4.3 screen).YUP with the radio left on mine does the same. UNFORTUNATELY I did not find any successful end postings. And some threads were from this forum and on other forums with members from here responding. I guess as a former "tech" that I was using too specific wording for searches.

My game plan is to go see my friend on Monday and pull the complete 4.3 screen and lower control panel and the CD player box along with the BCM of the "twin".

    So as to recap symptoms our Journey has is that all things function normally until parking the car.  It shuts down and then restarts the head unit and gage cluster. The push start button NEVER turns off and remains lit in the center and showing the OFF setting.

   Can any of our senior members here that are aware of this problem PLEASE post me some links to threads here, hopefully with what the FIX likely was?

Edited April 10, 2021 by 5rebel9

[2late4u]

way above my skill level but i sure wish you all the best, hope you find what is causing you all the grief

[5rebel9]

14 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

way above my skill level but i sure wish you all the best, hope you find what is causing you all the grief

Yeah, it got to the point that I didn't want to do this for a living anymore and went to a different trade(now "retired"). Always do as much as I can with what tools and equipment I have(or can get ahold of) for my own cars and certain family members. Without time pressures, I love the challenge of finding and fixing car problems. along with doing the NORMAL car maintenance.

But with todays computerized cars, electrical problems are pretty tough! 

[NavalLacrosse]

I hope you find the issue!  seems like you might be on the verge of being the first to diagnose and fix this issue ( or at least, document it!) 

Good luck with the swaps

[John/Horace]

You really need a schematic and a pin out drawing for ecm to diagnose. I wonder about that driver door harness that got fixed.

Sometimes switches like a dome light etc could have an auxiliary contact that sends a signal, power or ground somewhere else.

Even though door stuff seems to function ok, could still be broken wire causing the issue.

There are quite a few delayed lighting options on the Journey using some kind of timer. Try going into the display options and setting to 0 as many as you can. Just a thought.

I hate  automotive electrical too; can be very tricky.

[John/Horace]

"Your Corner Wrench: Making the right connections with connecting pins – New and Used Car Reviews, Comparisons and News | Driving" https://driving.ca/column/corner-wrench/your-corner-wrench-making-the-right-connections-with-connecting-pins/amp

[5rebel9]

YUP, you're right that schematics and manuals would make this a LOT easier. I've left the dash alone for now as on Mon. morning before heading to my friend I got my son to actually help me check ALL lights. I've been working pretty much alone, and now I've got a pretty good clue as to what may be going on. Seems the both inner hatch tail lights and the pass side reverse lights are not getting power. And hatch harness is GOOD, I checked the "bend" area and even pulled the trim to check at the harness connections inside the car.. YES I've rechecked ALL fuses in both boxes and now am thinking that the TIPM may be the culprit. Other chores will make me wait a couple days for more work to be done on the DJ.

   At least when I get this car back to normal, I won't say that I'm new to the Journey anymore! I'm getting a real self learned education on this one!

Edited April 14, 2021 by 5rebel9

[5rebel9]

WELLL????

   NOT the TIPM. BUT I spent time working the NICE scanner my friend has while he was involved with other things. LOTS of BCM codes for loss of CAN connection and such and a PCM code that was P2533. I ended up clearing ALL and restarted the car and 2 codes came up immediately. P2533 and a Body code of B218311. Brought it back home and disconnected the ground again(to save the battery). Will go back over again tomorrow and re run for codes and my friend says he will have some time to work with me on it.  OH and it did show a code for back up light out as circuit power shorted to ground before clearing codes. It did not come back like the other 2, but is still out along with the inner lights.

    STAY TUNED...I ain't giving up YET!

[5rebel9]

NEWS!

    Well after enduring the side effects of 2nd Moderna vaccine shot and then a few days of rain and SNOW and COLD temps.....

  I tried swapping over the BCM from the "twin" today. Dash shut down as it should, BUT found out that it had been programmed for EVIC language for Spanish. Tried another BCM from a 2012 and still had EVIC in Spanish but dash shut down with touching the screen off icon on the infotainment screen. 

  For now, I'm content that dash and start switch lighting turn off and will see if one last available BCM will do better maybe tomorrow. Awkward to replace, but not too terrible a job. Will be spending time "online" to see if I can reconfigure BCM functions or if I'll have to have a DEALER reset things.

  Short list of things still not working or now different

  Inner hatch lights and R reverse light still not working....NO code showing for it

 Lost pass side temp control

Now has Daytime running lights ON.... did not have before

EVIC in Spanish , infotainment in English

When we "gave up" for today, there were a total of 6 BCM codes hanging on, All other functions were good.

   STAY TUNED for further developments!  .....  

[5rebel9]

OK, latest update. I'm back to the original problem of dash shutting down and then restarting on it's own and staying on.

  Pass. reverse and hatch tail lights out was the hatch harness was 5 broken wires. BUT NOT in the bend area in the rubber boot. It was inside the body almost exactly where the boot plugs into the body.

Key shutting off but with loss of many lighting functions and EVIC in Spanish was 1 of 6 modular BCM connectors was actually no engaged properly. Everything else is back to normal. There is NO reflash or relearn for a BCM, the PCM/ECM can be reprogrammed/flashed by a dealer.

   I'm back to "old school" about possible door latch sensor OR more broken wires in driver or pass front doors. Panels will have to come off to inspect/repair IF trouble is found there.

   LAST possibility would be the non Uconnect but single disc player box. I know some Sedan Avengers had radio problems not shutting down and killing the battery. MAYBE our DJ is having a similar problem????

[John/Horace]

Maybe you can narrow it down to one fuse that you can pull for killing power. Easier than main ground.

I had an F150 with a parasitic dash power issue. Problem was tied to a delayed power off feature for radio, that was triggered by aux contact on drivers door switch. Hours of searching in the cold to find it. Almost by accident. 

[5rebel9]

Without posting that.. I've basically already done that and why this problem is so perplexing. But you raise a good point, maybe in the morning I'll go at fuse pulling again. Such a pain as each fuse pull has a wait time for "keep alive" power to shut down to be able to tell.

   Still strongly feel for driver door latch or a wire in the "boot" from door to body.

[5rebel9]

WELLLL......

    I spent  all day Tues. Pulling every powered fuse and relay in both fuse boxes with NO change to the problem. Took off both door panels and checked wiring to the body, and all was good. 

    My friend is getting wiring schematics for the run/start system from a Dodge Dealer he has good rapport with.

 It is not coming up lately, but we has been getting code P2355(run/start circuit shot to battery or open). 

Reminding here that ALL functions are working, just that the dash does not completely power off and  restarts the 4.3 screen and gage cluster which will then stay on and kill the battery.

   I'm hoping it's not the fob receiver module, as I hear that and new fob(s) can be very expensive.

[John/Horace]

I’ve noticed on wife’s Journey the driver and passenger door handles, with the car off and dash dark, can cause the full gauge cluster to light back up again very easily. Either pressing the button on either handle or even just touching inside of handle if the remote is within 25 feet. 
If remote is inside house far away, then just pressing door handle button can cause cluster to light up. Hatch back manual button will also turn on all the gauge lights if pressed without remote near by. Radio screen, ours 8.4 is not lighting up during this time. It takes about 25 seconds for the triggered dash lights to cycle back off.

I wonder if one of these buttons could be flakey and triggering the cluster. Could try electric contact cleaner sprayed into switches and some cycling. Just a thought.