bigbear372 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 My '14 needs a new coil spring on the RF. I figured I would just get whole new complete strut assemblies on the front left and right. From what I understand the R/T has more of a performance suspension that is different than the other models. With that being said at quick glance I can't seem to find any complete struts sold for just the R/T alone. Does anyone know where to buy R/T specific struts or suspension parts in general. If i can't find a complete R/T specific assembly I might just replace the coil springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 try your local dealership for the correct part that said also check ....https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com for the strut this is what i found,it shows a exploded diagram so dont know if it is a complete unit or what also i would replace BOTH struts just so you will know for sure the are the same ,Good luck and also check your local custom car shops to see what they have to offer compared to the OEM brand Home MOPAR 68039642AG Suspension Strut, Right - Mopar (68039642AG) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbear372 Posted June 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 called dealership the other day and they said they can only sell individual parts and not complete struts. I could at least probably get the OEM R/T spring from them if all else fails. I'll check out that website, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbear372 Posted June 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 ^ yeah that is all pretty much the plan, do both sides, ideally do the whole assembly, get it aligned immediately. Perhaps I just have miss information about the suspension on the R/T. I was under the impression that it was different than all the other models. If it is indeed the same as a few of the other AWD models then I can just get the performance struts i guess and be on my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbear372 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 19 hours ago, Locosiete said: Ya the stealership i mean dealership will always sell you on how it's different but when you do the research you find out it'd not as unique as they claim. From what i have noticed with The Journey depending on year the model SXT vs RT vs SE was what motor and or bells and whistles came standard. Otherwise nothing that was unique to only that model with the exception of the badge lol. I could be way off but if there was i have yet to come across it. Do you have any suggestions for brand of strut by chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbear372 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neverhme Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) mopar is all in pieces, napa has good for 230 cheap for 129 drop ins.This has me pondering what mopar was doing with all the front end clunking problems if the changed the strut bearing with the strut or just the strut, that problem is long in the tooth and should have been made right years ago. AWD i believe are all the same strut. Edited June 17, 2021 by neverhme spell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbear372 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 On 6/14/2021 at 11:15 AM, Locosiete said: I used KYB for the Rear and Gabriel for the front. The Gabriel brand to me felt stronger then the factory ones. They are also heavier so not sure if weight is a concern for you. I think either brand would be a great choice. I wouldn't go with the cheapest brand personally unless your familiar with it already. Otherwise Monroe is a good brand as well. So after finally tracking down a set of front gabriel's for the awd's i got around to messing with the car. Started working on the driver side, not too bad, pretty straight forward other than those darn wiper blade not coming off and the link rod bolts or whatever you want to call them. Either way, i got it mounted up but was left a little unsure. The Gabriel bottom mount bolt hole is more of a slot that allows for some movement vs the OEM that is a tight splined hole. Do you have any experience with this? When it is all torqued down is it going to shift at all? What is the proper placement? It's almost as if there should be a centering block or a special square flanged nut to fit between the metal parts on the mount to center and keep it free from play. Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 You WILL want to have an alignment done if the units you got are slotted like that. It is there for being able to adjust the camber of the wheel, Some places will charge extra to install a special eccentric head bolt for precise adjustment. Others will just loosen the 2 bolts and have an assistant pull on the wheel for adj. and then tighten bolts back up. I did this kind of work and alignments for 20+years. When struts first began use, replacements were not slotted and we had to grind the bottom hole to get camber adjustability. Middle years they started coming thru slotted (aftermarket), and lately I've seen the trend back to regular bolt holes, but some still are slotted. Properly torqued, TOU will be fine and the slot gaps will NOT be of any concern. bigbear372 and Locosiete 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbear372 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 45 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said: You WILL want to have an alignment done if the units you got are slotted like that. It is there for being able to adjust the camber of the wheel, Some places will charge extra to install a special eccentric head bolt for precise adjustment. Others will just loosen the 2 bolts and have an assistant pull on the wheel for adj. and then tighten bolts back up. I did this kind of work and alignments for 20+years. When struts first began use, replacements were not slotted and we had to grind the bottom hole to get camber adjustability. Middle years they started coming thru slotted (aftermarket), and lately I've seen the trend back to regular bolt holes, but some still are slotted. Properly torqued, TOU will be fine and the slot gaps will NOT be of any concern. Thanks for the info. I'm definitely getting it aligned 1st thing after the struts are replaced. If I take it to a dodge dealership will then align it properly with the new aftermarket struts and added adjustability or should I take it to more of a alignment specialty shop you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I don't normally suggest dealers. BUT it depends on the individual dealer if it has a good alignment machine and "rack". I myself would use an independent alignment/suspension shop. Most of them will try their best to have everything to optimum settings and not just "in the range tolerance". 2late4u, bigbear372 and Locosiete 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 15 hours ago, Locosiete said: Ya I stay away for ones that charge either by 2 wheel or 4 wheel. Have to do all 4 regardless or won't track right. Doesn't matter how straight front is if rear is out. Don't know how many times i have seen a car or truck driving down the street at a angle for this reason. Yes, "in my day" where I worked we offered 3 types 1 the old fashioned front end (no rear reference, just did our best to have vehicle "square" on the rack) 2 front align WITH rear refence (no adj's made to the rear) 3 4 wheel align where all 4 corners are checked and adjusted where needed We also put each vehicle thru a thorough suspension inspection for worn parts BEFORE proceeding to alignment. IF there was work needed, align was not done until owner was advised/or repairs were made. SOMETHING I've been seeing go away unless extra fee is paid. Kind of like the old time services of gas stations. .... for us OLD FOLKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 25, 2021 Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 as above, i also purchase a lifetime alignment (around $180 at the time and with 4 wheel alignments @ $90. each pop it sure has paid off) from Quick lane for my journey and i have it checked every time i rotate the tires at 5 k,i get my tires from discount tire as well they are a great tire company... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 26, 2021 Report Share Posted June 26, 2021 while i usually use the discount tire store in town,they have been running super great deals from the discount online site as well and the thing about doing it besides the better discount is if you buy the tire protection plan on line the tires i am looking at it is around $11 per tire and at the store it is around $16-19 per tire and also the tax online is about $24 cheaper than at the tire store as well, now they said well we can meet the price on the tire and also the protection plan but cant charge less on the tax...............only problem i ever had with their service is 1 time i had the r-bal done and then about 2 days later i went to do something under the car and thought well i remove the tire and my lug nut socket wouldn't fit on 2 of the lugs on the wheel .WTF so i checked the other lugs and found more of them deformed as well and yes i know the 2 pcs lugs from dodge tend to deform over the years but i found around 12 of them at this one time so i called them and told them about it and they tried to say about the cheap OEM lugs and i agreed with them, BUT not 12 at one time, and he said ya i agree and put me on hold and then said drive it back and we will put on some solid 1 pc lugs on the bad ones and i said well lets do all of them and he said that would cost them around $40) for them which is (bullshit), but i said well ill pay half , $20 for the whole set, which is about a little less what i would have paid off amazon, and he said okay,,,,,and i also always check my valve stems caps as i always find one loose out of the 4 after having the rotation and balance has been done.....other than that they have been great to do business with... i also found that when i ordered the tires thur the internet and they get delivered to the house, i always have checked the date codes on them and they are always just been manufactured within a month of me getting them so no worries about getting out of date or old stored tires as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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