Tig Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 Ok so I’ve been working on my step daughters journey, it started out that she took it to 2 shops, they replaced the battery, then the alternator. After several hundred dollars, the car still had the same issues, the car would act like a dead battery, hook up a jump pack it would start, only to die when the pack was disconnected. I got the car from her and reading several forums on line I found that this issue comes up a few times. So after doing a ton of testing with a multimeter, I found that it PASSED every test! So I started doing some old fashion wire tracing, and come to find out the cause of the whole problem was the power cable from the battery to the fuse block where the factory terminal connected to the cable was damaged inside the jacket! It wasn’t easy to spot because the factory connection has some sort of sealant on it (probably to prevent moisture from getting inside) so I replaced the cable with a new off the shelf universal one from Napa, and ta-da problem solved! NavalLacrosse, BTC1, 2late4u and 1 other 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 thanks for the info, it sure might come in helpful for posters who are having problems,,my daughter was having problems with her older caravan and the problem ended up being a wire shorting out in the connector making her coil short out and go bad,was a hard thing to trace down as well congratulation on solving your problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sooner Posted October 20 Report Share Posted October 20 2012 Dodge Journey - New battery, new alternator after 12 years of no trouble. Then started having have charging problems. Eventually car died while driving. The Battery current sensor or IBS as Dodge calls it was faulty. It is attached to the negative battery terminal. The battery is located in the most stupid place for an owner to change themself (behind right front fender.) It is possible to damage this sensor when changing the battery. Due to this location it is also susceptible to corrosion. Consider changing this sensor when changing the battery for safety reasons. Since there is no voltage meter on this vehicle, no idea if being fully charged! If this post helps one person avoid these headaches it will make my day! Dean H and Locosiete 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sooner Posted October 20 Report Share Posted October 20 I meant left front fender! Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted October 21 Report Share Posted October 21 You dont need a battery to drive a vehicle, you only need it to power the starter Once its running, the alternator provides all the power needed to run the engine...i would have my alternator tested (But the alternator does need the wiring to complete the loop, so check all your connections aswell) Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locosiete Posted October 21 Report Share Posted October 21 3 hours ago, diymirage said: You dont need a battery to drive a vehicle, you only need it to power the starter Once its running, the alternator provides all the power needed to run the engine...i would have my alternator tested (But the alternator does need the wiring to complete the loop, so check all your connections aswell) True but most cars won't run unless you have a battery connected even though the alternator is providing enough voltage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted October 21 Report Share Posted October 21 Won't run without a battery they need 12 volt supply also... Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted October 22 Report Share Posted October 22 2 hours ago, Locosiete said: True but most cars won't run unless you have a battery connected even though the alternator is providing enough voltage Hence the disclaimer about completing the loop I betcha you could connect the ground and hot from the battery together and run it without the battery (but i aint trying it on mine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locosiete Posted October 22 Report Share Posted October 22 1 minute ago, diymirage said: Hence the disclaimer about completing the loop I betcha you could connect the ground and hot from the battery together and run it without the battery (but i aint trying it on mine) I'm not an expert but pretty sure that would not end well for your electrical system if you tried that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sooner Posted November 13 Report Share Posted November 13 2012 Journey died again! I guess I will try the solution that TIG found (change the power cable from the battery to the fuse block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locosiete Posted November 14 Report Share Posted November 14 9 hours ago, Sooner said: 2012 Journey died again! I guess I will try the solution that TIG found (change the power cable from the battery to the fuse block? I recall a thread awhile ago that was talking about cleaning the ground and upgrading them. Worth checking and cleaning connections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted November 14 Report Share Posted November 14 The Jeep Cherokee's have terrible grounding issues the straps corrode and fall off Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted November 14 Report Share Posted November 14 Happened to my old superdookie too, rear ground strap just rotted off and I lost all rear lights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted November 14 Report Share Posted November 14 (edited) 2016, 3.6L 135k When, I got my DJ. I knew it would have electrical issues. Because of the 4 gauge battery and electrical cables. The only other engine to chassis ground. Being the very small gauge wire on the passenger mount. With all it's electronic modules (12-14) it needs plenty of good grounds. Bad grounds cause all kinds of strange problems. I went with more grounds the merrier for my DJ. At a minimum if people would add a 2 gauge cable. Negative battery stud on strut tower to engine block stud. 4 gauge cable from the engine passenger mount to the strut tower studs. They would be good to go . Cost wise pretty cheap to do, for the added reliability. So, I posted these threads- https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/ https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18374-electrical-system-fyi-ground-system/ https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18296-charging-system-101-with-diagrams/ I believe in building a good solid electrical foundation. Easiest upgrade to do yourself. Which, would eliminate some problems. Then narrow it down to troubleshooting the specific load ( module, light etc.) Connections and the very small wires throughout the vehicle . It's too easy to get focused on a part, and miss it being something simple. Causing the actual problem. Well, to be honest cut down on repeat forum posts! Dean Edited November 14 by Dean H Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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