Tedybear315 Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Just a quick one. 2010 Dodge Journey SXT with the massive V6. Been having the usual brake pedal pulsating brake pedal. It wasn't that noticeable until the other Sunday. I pulled on to the highway and hit about 50-60 and the entire front end started to shudder, with the steering wheel jerking left/right about 1". It went away on it's own after about a couple of miles. It has then been doing this on and off for the last few days. We've done a basic brake check. The caliper on the right side seems to have a very slight drag after releasing the brakes. It also loosens up after giving the tire a few additional spins. I'm suspecting it has binding at the brake pads to mount brackets. I live in upstate NY where "Salt" is a true evil 4 letter word, and 'rust jacking' of brake pads is pretty common. Also found the ball joint on that same side is a touch loose. I'm getting ready to order in the parts, however I did notice they list either 'normal service' or 'heavy duty' for the brake parts. Currently the SUV is at my parents place pending obtaining and installing the parts. I must admit, not looking forward to that ball joint job! I've already done the left side, and that was a PITA. So magic question: How does one tell if you have the heavy duty brakes or not? RockAuto shows the same calipers across the board. (Only difference is the brand of the part) When looking at the rotors, It shows both 302mm size for the heavy duty and the non-heavy duty. So that would be the same diameter. Quote: Quote Front; w/o Heavy Duty Brakes; 302mm Rotor Diameter Front; Heavy Duty Brakes; 302mm Rotor Diameter Is there a difference in the thickness of the rotor? With the exception of the 'Wagner' brand the other makes do not state 'heavy duty' or 'not heavy duty' with the brake pads. Also the site shows the same calipers across the board. So I'm curious to know what is the difference here. Any guidance would be helpful. As I'm about a fair distance from my work area and do not have the parts in front of me currently. If I can order in either and it will function okay? I'll just use the standard non-heavy duty parts. (We do not tow with the Journey, nor have a lot of hill climbing etc....) S- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 I feel your "upstate" NY dismay Being in the "Southern Tier". Sorry but I can't offer definitive advice about the pad difference, but you're on the right track about the "rust" cause. Make sure you clean everything well, and also don't forget to keep the rears working properly also! If they "stick up" all the braking effort goes to already overworked front brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 I have an 09. Eats pads and rotors like mad. Like I have to do them again after 20k miles! I know, I could upgrade to later model brakes, but I haven’t paid for pads in years. Gotta love that lifetime warranty O’REILLY Autoparts has. Anyway, make sure you rotate the rear calipers in, don’t use a c clamp! I just bought a brake caliper tool set for $25 on Amazon (didn’t want to wait 3 days for the loaner). If the caliper gives resistance, check to make sure the pressure is being released. Common issue is the rubber hose to the caliper gets restricted by the clamp. Looks fine but acts as a 1 way valve, let’s pressure in but not out. Good luck with it, not too bad really. I have it down to 30 mins a tire taking my time…. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 I always buy the better brakes, even if you only get twice the miles out of them, your still saving money. Rotors, I buy OEM and haggle a better price buy showing them the aftermarket prices and warranties. just find the OEM rotors are better overall IMO. I think if you put a better brake on a cheaper rotor you just wasted all your money, you'll end up replacing both sooner than later. Never bothered with ceramic brakes, maybe I'm missing out, but again probably need to pair them with quality rotors too ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedybear315 Posted July 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 I usually go with coated rotors and decent pads. (I'm semi retired as a mechanic) This Journey fell into my lap when my sister passed away just over a year ago. It's been a mechanical load of 'joy'. From having the 'starter' issue where it will loudly 'click' and not spin over... To having the rear caliper hang up and then blow a seal. And it's now coming due for it's 105k maintenance of the timing belt components. The question however. Is there a difference between the heavy duty brake parts, or the standard duty parts. (Other then cost and metallurgy/material) If the Heavy Duty parts will install normally (regardless of what it came with) I'm open to upgrading it to hold back future problems. However before I order these in? Need to know how if there will be a fitment concern. (I always use RockAuto. I know some will say 'buy local'. But I can get decent quality parts for a fraction of what the local parts house is selling them for.) If no difference between the two for fitment? I'll go heavy duty. I'd like to get the parts ordered in today. Thanks! S- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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