'11 3.6 AWD cruise control inoperative

[5rebel9]

Sorry if this has been answered before. Son' tells me this a.m. before heading out the door for work that the CC won't turn on. Had enough time to pop the 2 fuse panel covers to see about a fuse and could not find one. NO basic OBDII codes or EVIC messages and all seems to be fine with the car otherwise. Anyone here have any idea besides possible steering wheel switch(I've already thought of that). I get very little time now to play with the car as son works 12 hr shifts with another 1 hr. driving time r.t.

[2late4u]

only time my CC wouldn't work was when i had a bad wheel  sensor, of course the other lights (abs) had come on as well, i am sure there is a fuse for it, could be a switch or part malfunction, hard to tell,good luck and hope someone chimes in for your problem 

[tsteves5]

I don't see a fuse that lists Cruise Control or similar in my online service manual either.  Strange.

 

I do see that there is a Technical Service Bulletin 08-010-14 related to slow or no response on the Cruise Control that requires reprogramming.  Might be a vacuum leak too, but I think you would have other symptoms if that were the case.

 

 

 

NUMBER: 08-010-14

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: January 30, 2014

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES SERVICE BULLETIN 08-078-13 REV. A, DATED
NOVEMBER 21, 2013, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL
REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDES ADDING LC
AND WD VEHICLES.

 

HELP USING THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION FOR FLASHING AN ECU IS
AVAILABLE BY SELECTING "HELP" THEN "HELP CONTENTS" AT THE TOP OF
THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION WINDOW.

 

THE wiTECH SOFTWARE LEVEL MUST BE AT RELEASE 14.01 OR HIGHER TO
PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE.

 

SUBJECT:
Cruise Control Slow Or No Response

 

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves upgrading the software on the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM).

 

MODELS:

**2011-2013     (WD)            Durango**

**2011-2013     (LC)            Challenger**

2011-2013       (JC)            Journey

2013            (ZD)            Viper

2013            (DS)            Ram 1500 Pickup

2013            (DJ)            Ram 2500 Pickup

2013            (D2)            Ram 3500 Pickup

2013            (DD)            Ram 3500 Cab Chassis

2013            (DP)            Ram 4500/5500 Cab Chassis

2013            (DX)            Ram Truck (Mexico)

2013            (PF)            Dart

 

NOTE :This bulletin applies to vehicles built on or before May 01, 2013 (MDH 0501XX) equipped with Speed Control (sales codes NHM).

 

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A customer may experience, no response or slow response to cruise control switch activations. Issues will be experienced by the customers that activate/press the switches in a very fast manner.

 

DIAGNOSIS:
Using a Scan Tool (wiTECH) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures available in TechCONNECT, verify no DTC's are set. If DTCs are present record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin.

 

If the customer describes the symptom, perform the Repair Procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

NOTE :Install a battery charger to ensure battery voltage does not drop below 13.2 volts. Do not allow the charging voltage to climb above 13.5 volts during the flash process.

 

NOTE :If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted.

 

1.	Reprogram the SCCM with the latest software. Using the wiTECH diagnostic application for flashing an SCCM is available by selecting "help" then "help contents" at the top of the wiTECH diagnostic application window.
2.	Clear any DTC's that may have been set in all modules due to reprogramming. The wiTECH application will automatically present all DTCs after the flash and allow the tech to clear them.

POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

 

 

  

 

TIME ALLOWANCE:

 

  

 

FAILURE CODE:

Disclaimer :This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.

[tsteves5]

Actually, I stand corrected.  Looks like this might be part of the Steering Column Control Module.  Check Fuse F119.

 

[NavalLacrosse]

My 2011 has issues with the cruise control. 

I'm certain it's to do with the switch. 

I'm thinking it's caused by the vent blowing hot or cold air at the steering wheel. Regardless of how it's caused, my 'caveman' repair is to *BANG* the steering wheel with my palm at the 2-o-clock position. Usually one or two bangs fixes the issue for the entire drive.
The switch gives issues once every 10-or-so drives. This is a FCA issue, not a Journey issue, a friend's '15 charger had the same issue when it was brand new. (changed his switch under warranty)

A possible related thing might be the active recall on the wiring for the steering wheel (related to airbags). Maybe the wires got chaffed for the CC switch.


One last bonus note is that if the tmps sensor is not detected in one of the tires, the cruise will de-activate over 55 mph. (such as the case of using a spare tire, rated to no more than 55mph)

Edited August 3, 2021 by NavalLacrosse

[5rebel9]

Thanks for the replies! Yes I did some searching and saw about the 2 fuses for the SCCM. And I'm familiar with the switch issues also from the many Dodge models that use the same switch(Avenger/200/Sebring/Ram). My friend has at least 3 vehicles to pull one from and try, if it's not a blown fuse. Probably do it Friday as MOM won't need HER G6 and son can use that for going to work.

    Hey for a vehicle rapidly getting to the 192K mile mark, some small things NEED to start wearing out! ...  LOL   

[5rebel9]

WELL? ... Thursday a.m. my son tried engaging(turning on) the CC as he left for work...and it turned on! I did have the car for the day Friday and went and got it NY state inspected before unhooking the battery to change the CC switch anyway. At the same time, I also replaced the HVAC control module behind the infotainment screen. I used dielectric grease to ALL connectors taken apart. We shall see how things go over the next couple of weeks as to cruise operation AND the before posted question of rear heat turning off or on by itself and unsyncing the 3 zones that my son likes to have at that setting.

 I did take it for a 26 mile round trip to get gas in it after all this was done, as he left it near empty on me and halfway back home the darned CEL came on and showed the UGLY P0420 code after not showing itself for more than a few months(and lots of daily 60 mile rt driving). I stopped and put a can of Seafoam in the tank and will now have to monitor that again!

[John/Horace]

How tight is the exhaust. I've seen pin holes in a flex section cause intermittedent p0420 on other vehicles.

Cat itself was ok and code problem was solved.

[5rebel9]

32 minutes ago, John/Horace said:

How tight is the exhaust. I've seen pin holes in a flex section cause intermittedent p0420 on other vehicles.

Cat itself was ok and code problem was solved.

Yes that would be the next step to get it up in the air enough to check, but exhaust sound seems pretty good(quiet). 

With 192k miles on it, I still think  O2 sensors are getting worn out. Now that my son has good paying job, he's not so bad about putting money into the car. Parts are not too bad on price, but the LABOR to change the rear(firewall) bank is going to be NASTY for me to do.   

[John/Horace]

The NTK aftermarket are reasonable, they are the OEM supplier I think. Rockauto cheapest it seems.

 

If you pull intake for rear plugs,  the upstream is right there. That's when I changed wife's. Helps mileage a bit so Ido a little early sometimes..

Ramps another option.

[5rebel9]

My son spent Sunday traveling around visiting his GF and such with the Journey. 

AN UPDATE to the work done.... I reinstalled the HVAC control module Sat evening as I found out the modules are different for non rear air/heat(rear would not work, plugs the same). Used a little more dielectric grease again.

Son reported this a.m. that ALL electricals worked perfectly so we will continue to monitor. YES the CEL came back for the P0420, cleared it again today and will see what goes as I order up all 4 O2 sensors. And YES rockauto seems the best priced even with shipping and wait time for delivery. This is not a critical code......

Edited August 9, 2021 by 5rebel9

[5rebel9]

8/10/21 update:

    Cruise control and HVAC (rear control/synch. settings) working as should after multiple drive times.

2 35 mile drives and P0420 code is still in PENDING mode and not setting off the CEL as of yet. All 4 NTK sensors are ordered.

At over 192k miles, it makes sense to do them all and be done with it.

 

[5rebel9]

8/18/21 UPDATE:

   Cruise and HVAC controls are working fine, no further glitches there. Parts finally arrived today to do the O2 sensors, and a new heater core. It has not been getting hot like the drivers side will. Going to "cut and hose splice" the tubes, after doing the dash pull on our old Neon, I swore to never do that again! 

   NOW I'll have to wait until next week to do the work as we have rain all this week and this weekend the DJ is needed to move the son's GF from home back to college as I don't have my T&C anymore for him to use that  ... BUT I am LOVING it's replacement Buick Lucerne! 

[5rebel9]

8/26/21 UPDATE

     Well the week has almost passed and now the wife is leaving Fri. morning with her car for a weekend with our daughter. Weather has been horrible at home(have to work out in the driveway), MAYBE if my son stays home Sat. I can get at the O2 sensors and change the heater core. I prefer to have a running car avail if I need to make a quick parts run.

     CEL came on one time after clearing and using the seafoam, now not even a pending code by my cheap scanner. Also NO "glitches" from the HVAC or Cruise control. 

[5rebel9]

Dog gone it!

   Rain back in the picture for early(8:00am) morning then a break till around 2:30 ... IF the weather forecasters are actually accurate. Going to try and get the O2 sensors done and let the heater core wait a bit. Son wants to take the car to go visit the GF mid afternoon anyway! 

[5rebel9]

15 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Dog gone it!

   Rain back in the picture for early(8:00am) morning then a break till around 2:30 ... IF the weather forecasters are actually accurate. Going to try and get the O2 sensors done and let the heater core wait a bit. Son wants to take the car to go visit the GF mid afternoon anyway! 

   8/28/21  10:15 am

    They were wrong! Started at 8:00 and decided to call it quits for the day. Got the 2 upstream sensors changed and found the cause of the P0420. The sensor tip "cage" was cracked and under heat was touching the inner section. 

   Only had to remove the air tubes from the air filter housing AND that elbow to the throttle body. Upper intake did not have to come off.

     It's only 70*f here BUT close to 85% humidity and supposed to now hit 87* today, rain later tonight!....I'm sweat soaked and sore from bending over the hood/engine. Besides the BILLS play the Packers today at 1:00 gotta shower and get ready to watch the game!! 

     One thing that got me upset about the job was my DJ says 1/11 build date, rockauto says NTK23161 for upstream RIGHT(firewall side)... IT is NOT, wrong plug connector and I found this out AFTER installing to the manifold. Took it back out and used one of the other NTK23162, Beside the OE being a white connector and the replacement had a black one, the aligning slots are different. AND RA also lists that NTK 23161 fits downstream left(radiator side)from 11/18/10....IT IS NOT for my 1/11 build date car, It IS the NTK23162.

Edited August 28, 2021 by 5rebel9

[Armando G]

@5rebel9 sounds like your getting more than expected done on the DJ. Hope your kid is right there with you learning a bit about the car (sounds like it's his daily driver). I just re-plumbed my kids kitchen sink and DW in his condo and I had him watch and help so he knew the basics. Ended up buying him a full set of tools for his b-day yesterday because I got tired of lugging my tools every time I came over. And they weren't the cheapie foreign tools like I had when I started ???

[5rebel9]

1 minute ago, Armando G said:

@5rebel9 sounds like your getting more than expected done on the DJ. Hope your kid is right there with you learning a bit about the car (sounds like it's his daily driver). I just re-plumbed my kids kitchen sink and DW in his condo and I had him watch and help so he knew the basics. Ended up buying him a full set of tools for his b-day yesterday because I got tired of lugging my tools every time I came over. And they weren't the cheapie foreign tools like I had when I started ???

Nope he's still sleeping, he got home from work at 1:30am this morning. I had told him to sleep as he want to go visit the GF and leave around 2:00 today. With his new railroad conductor job, he doesn't get much daily time for activities or weekends now. He is "on call" for the Labor Day weekend so has this weekend off.

   Going to arrange car use after wife goes back to school teaching so he can use her car and I will still have my ride(just in case) after chauffeuring her to and from work and finish up the downstream sensors and heater core.

 My outside thermometer now shows 88* 

[John/Horace]

The way it was explained to me by a dealer mechanic who always posted on the Hyundai site I was on.

The upstream is the critical one that does fuel trim, affects fuel economy and driveability. Down stream confirms cats are working and will cause codes only.

 

A few times I’ve had to use zip ties and reroute wiring when clips or new sensor wire pigtail length was off. Real annoying but I was saving $100 plus off dealer part. Hyundai dealer 02 sensors could hit $300.  Rock allows returns for 30 days I think. 
The NTK’s were plug and play for wife’s 14 Journey and have worked perfectly for year and a half now. Wasn’t trying to mislead anybody. Sorry for the crappy luck.

[5rebel9]

WELL, It just MAY be the downstream ones yet, as I have not pulled them. I ALWAYS inspect suspected failed parts looking to confirm. This is the FIRST sensor with a physical fault I've come across(of many I've replaced) and kind of confirms my different bank trim readings when we first got the DJ. I have not driven or monitored live data readings yet after the upstream sensor replacement. 

    Was just heading into the shower when you posted......

[5rebel9]

With 170 miles put on after the upstream sensors being replaced, long term fuel trims are a LOT closer now. NO CEL and all operating as proper. I have a feeling from seeing the condition of the sensors that there is probably a fair amount of carbon build up on the vales yet, and am going to try more Seafoam every other tank fill up. My son leaves for work in an hour, and I've already "scolded" him again  that the tank is on empty AGAIN. It's not a matter of money, it's laziness!

[5rebel9]

So far so good with son's Journey. Just got back from my buddies shop on a visit call about when he will be ready with more of my winter firewood purchase, this week has gone from FURNACE to FREEZER.

  Also asked him about the O2 sensor snafu and he pulled out matched pair of converters from an engine scrap out that still had the sensors in them. Looks like rock auto(and a few others) have a position location typo as the NTK 23161(black connector ) is mounted as downstream bank 1 (firewall side).

    When I get to work on the journey again and get it up on ramps I'll make sure and go from there as it has to be from underneath the car.