Tay Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 So the other day out of no where my car started heating up. I opened the hood and realized the coolant was LOW. Mind you I run synthetic and I’m about 6k over my oil change . So I didn’t realize If it’s been going down or if it just started, I took it to The shop which they installed a new radiator Bc the coolant was actually was running a small leak causing it to drain. The thermostat was also replaced. My garage guy used a jug of mopar and half water while refilling my coolant. We started the car (after my car over heated I put more coolant in it and it was running fine , I drove home 50 min and it was running at 197, drove here the next day 25 min. Now that we got all this stuff replaced. We just started the car and it ended up rising to above 232. And the van didn’t even kick on till almost 220. Can someone tell me what’s going on. He thinks an air bubble but I am just so confused why after putting new things in it decide to (attached is a pic of the old radiator ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 A pretty sorry shape radiator for sure. BUT in order to give any suggestions, you need to tell us what YEAR and ENGINE size is under the hood. Each different engine has it's own "quirks". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 Your profile shows you have a 2019 model. You should still be under warranty, unless you put a lot of miles on it and depending when it was sold. Have you taken it back to the dealer? 6k over your oil change?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 get it back to the mech who did your work and let him check it out also he can can air out that might be trapped ,,change your dam oil,i use syn oil as well but i still change it every 5-6 k just to dam easy and not that expensive,,,and as mentioned engine size and miles always help when asking for help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tay Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 It’s a Dodge Journey 2019 crossroads V6, & yea I run synthetic , so I’m at 6k miles since my last oil change (I’m going to get that done today) , today the car is running around 205-210 which it says is normal for my car but before getting it replaced (after the over heating ) it was running around 197, so just wondering why it’s running hotter now than before with the old parts… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tay Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 & yea I didn’t mean 6k over , I meant 6k since my last full synthetic oil change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 that sounds better, as far as the heat range check out you tube for videos on how to bleed the air it is real easy just a simple screwdriver is used from the top of the engine by your oil filter, i would try to bleed it just to be sure also have your heat turned on in the cabin when doing it ass well, report back on what you find out and good luck OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tay Posted September 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 @2late4u @5rebel9 (2019 Dodge Journey crossroads v6) So since getting the radiator (Bc of the leak )and thermostat replaced , everything is / was running good. The temp of the coolant has been around 197 (WHEN I PUT THE HEAT ON) mind you I live in Florida , when the AC is on (keep on the button which circulates it in the car) the coolant temp is like 210-215 and bounced up to 221 today, does anyone know anything maybe I can put in it to make it cooler ? Or what can be causing this ? I googled a few things like “bars leaks cooling system repair additive “ which I read can lower the coolant temp, I’m a female and don’t know to much about this, it’s just getting annoying having the heat on in 95 degree weather jusy to keep the car running properly, thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 (edited) A couple things come to mind….. Is the fan turning on? Did the repair guy forget to reconnect it? Fan should turn on as soon as AC is turned on (ifI remember correctly). Did you try bleeding it? Get any air out? Do you have 3 zone heat/ac? Could have more air in there then you would think. Was the correct temp thermostat installed? Was the thermostat that was removed OEM? If not, was the old one the correct temperature for the car? There are thermostats that are 165,180,195 degrees that will all fit. Someone could have slipped in a 180 and not the OEM temperature one. Sorry, just saw it’s a 2019 Are you out of warranty already? More then 36k miles/36 months? Edited September 9, 2021 by OhareFred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 Thanks for the year update. Although much newer than our 2011 model, but same engine, do NOT put such additives into the cooling system! I have been dealing with the same temp gage readings since getting ours for a year now. BUT have come to figure out that it is NOT overheating at those posted dash temp readings. YES you need to confirm that the radiator fan is turning on and that coolant is not "boiling over", do as has already been suggested. I am leaning to a faulty coolant temp sensor on the engine, but can't get enough time to "play" with the car from my son. I have other work to finish up doing on it soon and replacing that sensor will be among the tasks to do. But comparatively, ours has 193k miles on it and probably many more than yours. Keep us posted as to how things go for you and your DJ 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 as mentioned above you should not have to use any additives for your journey to run correctly, it could be any of the above comments that is making it run a bit hotter , as said have them check to make sure all the air has been bleed out of the whole system.good luck and report back what you find.....PS is the place that replaced your rad and other parts a regular shop or rad shop? i would be having them recheck everything as they did the job and should have the knowledge on what is wrong OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 (edited) On 9/8/2021 at 11:49 PM, OhareFred said: A couple things come to mind….. Is the fan turning on? Did the repair guy forget to reconnect it? Fan should turn on as soon as AC is turned on (ifI remember correctly). Did you try bleeding it? Get any air out? Do you have 3 zone heat/ac? Could have more air in there then you would think. Was the correct temp thermostat installed? Was the thermostat that was removed OEM? If not, was the old one the correct temperature for the car? There are thermostats that are 165,180,195 degrees that will all fit. Someone could have slipped in a 180 and not the OEM temperature one. Sorry, just saw it’s a 2019 Are you out of warranty already? More then 36k miles/36 months? After looking up replacement Thermostats for the 3.6 motor on a number of parts sites, I found the OE standard replacement is a 203*f T-stat. IF the needle gage on the dash stays at mid scale and the EVIC display is showing from 215 to 225*, I'm beginning to think there may be NOTHING WRONG. Come to think of it, the wife's 08 Pontiac G6 has only an analog (needle) gage and it's scale reads at 225*f at operating temp. It IS VERIFIED that that is where it is supposed to show and is NOT overheating. On the OP's Journey, make sure the radiator fan does turn on with A/C use nd at extended time of high engine temp without A/C engaged (this will run for shorter time due to temp programmed on/off by the cars computer). Edited September 10, 2021 by 5rebel9 OhareFred and 2late4u 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 looks like the 3.6 thermostat comes as a 1 pc unit with the 203 thermostats already built into it , Not sure someone could add in a lower temp one as well but i have no experience replacing one on this motor...looks like it would be easy to change out as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 2 minutes ago, 2late4u said: looks like the 3.6 thermostat comes as a 1 pc unit with the 203 thermostats already built into it , Not sure someone could add in a lower temp one as well but i have no experience replacing one on this motor...looks like it would be easy to change out as well Some places sell just the "stat", but I don't know why anyone would want to try that as the whole unit is EASY and quick to replace with no risk of improper installation or breakage. For DIY'ers, the 3.6 T-stat unit change is SIMPLE. I've got Sat. morning to work on our Journey and will be replacing the coolant temp sensor along with doing the downstream O2 sensors to finish up that task from 2 weeks ago. Will report after a few days use as to any change in gage readings. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 just thought i would post this as looks like the easiest replacement i have ever seen on an engine at least it is a better area better than the battery LOL,,,,not sure about draining the coolant onto the belt tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 (edited) I just got done with a 15 mile road test after changing the coolant temp sensor. 65* outside temp, and at steady cruise speed of 55mph EVIC read 208*. Under spirited acceleration and uphill(big one) highest reading was 222* and then settled to 216*. The temp gage needle stayed at mid scale once at operating temp, as it should. Will update at a later time once "broken in". For a vehicle whose T-stat opens at 203*, these are VERY ACCEPTABLE numbers. I will discuss the O2 downstream sensors on my own started thread. Let's just say 50% done on them! Edited September 11, 2021 by 5rebel9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 People forget the significance of the thermostat temp rating, cut and pasted from thermostat description is an important detail. Its the start to open temp, so not really the exact operating temp. The dash analogue needle sweep gauge is more useful than the instantaneous digital number in the cluster. It Can be misinterpreted some times. MAHLE / CLEVITE TI23795 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Includes Thermostat; Includes Gasket or Seal Info Start to Open Temperature: 95 C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 (edited) From the lack of response I guess the OP fixed it/figured it out. Might remain one of life’s great mysteries….?? Edited September 12, 2021 by OhareFred Armando G and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 12, 2021 Report Share Posted September 12, 2021 4 post wonder...LOL jkeaton and Armando G 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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