Uconnect Battery Drain

[smfabac]

How long should the radio play with the engine off before it drains the battery too low to start the car? 

 

I've checked the posts in Electrical Battery Charging but none cover my question.  I've a 2013 Journey Crew and have replaced the original battery April 2019 at my local Dodge dealer. The service record says they put in BB086525AB (should be a match for the original battery  BAB: 160 Amp Alternator;  BCP: 525 Amp Maintenance Free Battery;), I paid the dealer $55 6/21/21 to 
"test and charge" the battery. They report that it looks good and the sticker on the battery indicates 3yr warranty. 

 

My concern started when I was working in the yard and had the hatch open (interior lights on) and played the radio for three hours. When I tried to start the car the battery was too low to start (radio still played).  I charged the battery until I was able to start the car and then the next week took it to the Dealer for the "test" on 6/21/21.  No other problem until  10/15/21 when I sat in the car and played the radio with the engine off (doors closed, 10:00 am, accessory mode, no lights on) for less then one hour.   The accessory position turns off the radio after some time (I've never timed it). When the accessory mode timed out, I reset it and continued to listen to the radio. When my wife called that the granddaughters next swim event was about to start, I turned off the "accessory" and locked the car.  After the swim meet was over we returned to the car and the battery was too low to start the engine.   

 

This seems like too short an interval for the radio to drain the battery too low to start the car.    Does anyone have any good information on how long the 525CCA battery should play the radio before it is discharged too low to start the car?  Any idea what the current draw is for the  RE2: Uconnect Touch 8.4 CD/DVD/MP3;  RFL: 8.4" Touch Screen Display;  RSC: SIRIUS Satellite Radio?

 

I replaced the original battery April 2019 figuring that five-six years on the battery was about all I could expect from the battery. Now I'm faced with having the dealer "test" the battery again (another $55), or just have them pull it and put in a new battery. 

[5rebel9]

There's no way to give you a "time" answer, as there are too many variables that affect "drain" time. Todays cars(yes even your '13) draw a lot of power thru the battery, and they don't last like they used to with older cars. Your posted use times are just about at the limit of what I've noticed for having a "too low to start" battery. 

   I'd suggest starting it up and letting it run for a while about mid cycle of your listening "pleasure times".

[smfabac]

Thanks for the response.    So do you think it would be advisable to replace the battery now before cold weather sets in?   One hour on  just listening to the radio seems to be too short to accept. " I'd suggest starting it up and letting it run for a while about mid cycle of your listening "pleasure times"."  30 minutes engine off/5 minutes engine on (35 minutes per cycle)?  Or just start the car and let it run for five minutes when the "accessory" position times out? 

[5rebel9]

2 hours ago, smfabac said:

Thanks for the response.    So do you think it would be advisable to replace the battery now before cold weather sets in?   One hour on  just listening to the radio seems to be too short to accept. " I'd suggest starting it up and letting it run for a while about mid cycle of your listening "pleasure times"."  30 minutes engine off/5 minutes engine on (35 minutes per cycle)?  Or just start the car and let it run for five minutes when the "accessory" position times out? 

Seems a little soon for another battery to me. But there again as to maint/care/temp conditions/whatever else is on(uconnect/ other electronics). I take it you don't do much of the "nasty" maint work, but how clean are the battery posts and terminal ends?

Do you leave a phone connected(that draws power) ? The audio on these draws more than you'd think what with all that's turned on to play the radio on Acc. This ain't the '70's car systems anymore.

BUT due to it not cranking up as you post, ,YEAH if MINE I'd get a new battery, (BUT NOT FROM A DEALER).

[John/Horace]

If you pay $55 for battery report. It should state cranking amp capacity of battery from a load test. When compared to a new battery spec  it gives you an idea of wear on battery. Two years is not old for a battery IMO. But if abused and run flat multiple times, it could have lost capacity.

Amp on radio draws a lot of power. Just use a rechargeable blue tooth speaker if you sit in car for long periods.

AGM style battery recharge quicker and can sit without losing charge as much, without load. . More money but worth considering.

 

If you are a car owner, having a battery charger is often useful.

 

 

Edited October 19, 2021 by John/Horace

[smfabac]

2 hours ago, John/Horace said:

If you pay $55 for battery report. It should state cranking amp capacity of battery from a load test. When compared to a new battery spec  it gives you an idea of wear on battery. Two years is not old for a battery IMO. But if abused and run flat multiple times, it could have lost capacity.

Thanks John,

 

Unfortunately,  the dealer did not provide the "battery report" (or if did the cashier did not give it to me)  The ticket says:

 

 

2 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Amp on radio draws a lot of power. Just use a rechargeable blue tooth speaker if you sit in car for long periods.

AGM style battery recharge quicker and can sit without losing charge as much, without load. . More money but worth considering.

 

If you are a car owner, having a battery charger is often useful.

 

 

 

[smfabac]

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Seems a little soon for another battery to me. But there again as to maint/care/temp conditions/whatever else is on(uconnect/ other electronics). I take it you don't do much of the "nasty" maint work, but how clean are the battery posts and terminal ends?

 

You're right about not doing "nasty" maint work.  The damn battery is  located somewhere behind the left headlamp and needs to have the wheel liner removed to access it.  So I have no idea what the terminals look like.  The car started ok the week before when it sat for five days in the airport parking lot. 

 

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Do you leave a phone connected(that draws power) ? The audio on these draws more than you'd think what with all that's turned on to play the radio on Acc. This ain't the '70's car systems anymore.

 

Yeah,  I did not mention that I had my phone ( Kyocera DuraXV Extreme) plugged into the 12V socket in the center console (with a high power 12V to USB converter) for the whole time I was in the car.  No telling how much current that draws. 

 

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

BUT due to it not cranking up as you post, ,YEAH if MINE I'd get a new battery, (BUT NOT FROM A DEALER).

 

[larryl]

  

Yeah,  I did not mention that I had my phone ( Kyocera DuraXV Extreme) plugged into the 12V socket in the center console (with a high power 12V to USB converter) for the whole time I was in the car.  No telling how much current that draws.

^^There's your problem right there Vern

 

[5rebel9]

And like Paul Harvey ... and now the rest of the story!  I have to agree with member larryl. The battery/electrical system can only handle so much drain, time to change your habits.

[smfabac]

9 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

And like Paul Harvey ... and now the rest of the story!  I have to agree with member larryl. The battery/electrical system can only handle so much drain, time to change your habits.

 

Probably stupid to charge the phone without the engine running.  But here’s more trouble:  After jumping the car Sunday after the swim meet  I drove a total of 78 miles.  Monday a total of 9 miles. Tuesday total 6 miles.  This morning the car would not start and I had to connect my battery charger.  After two minutes on charge (reading 6 amps and  greater then 75% charged) I hit the start button and it started.  I checked the charging voltage and it reads 14.46 Volts.

 

The only thing I did on Tuesday after running two short errands was to have the second row doors and rear hatch open while I folded the second row seats down.  This morning before I tried to start the car I unlocked it and recorded my mileage (took a photo on my iPod touch (@09:01), left the hatch open while I loaded tools, suitcases, and other items for a trip to the lake to winterize the cabin. I closed and locked the car by 09:20. At 10:25 I went out to start the car to turn it around and back it up to the trailer. That’s when it just clicked one time and would not start.

 

nothing was on except the interior lights while the doors/hatch were open.

 

Even with the short errands on Monday and Tuesday,  the 78 miles driven on Sunday alter the jumpstart should have charged a “good” battery so that it would have started the car today.

[5rebel9]

The battery needs a proper load test done (most auto parts stores do this for free) to see just what capacity is left in this "relatively new" battery. As I stated once, "if mine, I'd get a new battery". ALSO in the little over 2 years since you got this present battery, the battery posts and terminal ends should have been cleaned and a film of dielectric grease used on them to help prevent oxidation/poor connection. YES I know the battery is in a tough location, I've been there and done that even with a bad back for a 62 yr old fellow.

[John/Horace]

Also confirm alternator output. Although 14.4 sounds good at idle. You can do a simple quick load test yourself.

 

You need to turn on a few high draw accessories and watch voltage drop with car running. Should stay over 13.7 ish if alternator is good. Scratch the  probes a little  on those remote battery points to get a good connection. As already mentioned, make sure no signs of greenish corrosion on any of battery connections.