New Brakes for the Journey

[2late4u]

I had changed out the OEM pads at 70 k at all 4 corners, the front pads didnt even look half wore out but I  had already bought some Wagner Thermoquiet pads, so put them on and kept the old pads in the cupboard,fast forward so now at 120 k and i wasnt really happy with the Wagner pads I had been using them all my life, but was getting a lot of dust from them and also used them on my daughters jeep that she uses on her mail route and for whatever reason they dont seem to be holding up as good as they use to, so i ordered some Akebono pads and pulled the rotors and with 120 k looked liked they needed to be turned or replaced ,I wasnt having no problems with them but decided to take them down to the shop and they checked them and said yes they could turn them but would be at the min after being turned ( i had never had them turned before so was kind of surprised he said they were at the minimum after turning them)so i said okay ,probally should have bought some new ones but being cheap i didnt, well got them back and put on the journey and thought i'd compare the old OEM pads with the new ones and dam they looked same thickness as the new pads so I put on the new brake clips and reinstalled the old OEM pads and took it for a drive and everything is great ready for another 60-70 k i would assume, the journey seems to be braking a bit better and seems to be a bit smoother as well, of course i really didnt feel much vibrations before the brake job ,,,,one word of advice is to watch a youtube video as getting the new pads into position there is a trick when installing the pads into the caliper is to angle it in at a 45 degree into the brake clips, so you dont damage the brake clips...i was having a bit of a problem till i remembered that there was that trick to get the pads in the right way....

Edited November 27, 2021 by 2late4u

[2late4u]

he shows how install the pads at a 45 degree angle clearly,,, unlike most other videos dont show or mention

[5rebel9]

Thanks for sharing your experience and the video! Which was exactly how I was taught to do the job decades ago. One thing I additionally do is to crack open the bleeder screw before compressing the piston(s) back and then immediately closing the bleeder back up. This expels old fluid that stays in the caliper that gets the most heat soak "wear" of the brake fluid. Done right there is no need to "bleed" the brakes after, just be sure to "top up" the brake res. when all is back together. On dual piston calipers, I also use a shim to press both in at the same time. Our '11 Journey and all my other cars currently use single piston calipers,

Edited November 27, 2021 by 5rebel9

[John/Horace]

I was also taught by licensed mechanics to not force old dirty fluid through abs system when pushing piston back.  Two light raps on bleeder screw with small hammer ( helps in salt belt areas) and loosen bleeder screw before retracting piston. Catch small amount of old fluid in a metal container. Brake reservoir cap loosened before procedure. Top up reservoir with fresh fluid after cycling pedal at completion of caliper/pads installation. So correct reservoir level can be established after piston has extended again.