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Alternator numbers


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I did the ground wire didnt help. Trickle charge light says full and it jumps with 12v generator juice. There are a lot of alternator numbers listed how do I tell which one or as long as it fits and hooks up its good? Also some are listed with alternator clutch never saw this before can it be the cause of not fully charging a battery that was replaced last year by the previous owner? Thinking about another wire from the hot alt connection to + on battery jump post. 

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So you have entered that yours' is a '10 model, but WHICH MOTOR SIZE? The 4 cyl 3.4 does indeed use a clutch drive alternator pulley that NONE of the other motors avail. for the year use. Using readings from a charger is NOT what tests the cells of the battery for charge hold capacity. Don't know where you are looking up parts, but rockauto.com is very easy and straightforward as to replacement parts specifically for your vehicle when you enter the required vehicle specs for the site.

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Thanks for the reply its a 2.4. I use Rockauto all the time actually. I suppose if the battery that was installed last year wasnt getting the proper charge ( I think the former owners ran it every day so the non start might be because I wont be driving it that much at this point) Another supposition is the battery connections werent properly cleaned but it just snowed and I'm not taking the tire and inners out to get to it. Just wondering what alternator numbers will work for this car as there are 15 or so choices but the only issue would be the wiring clips and 160 amps as far as I can tell they mount the same. Also I have a factory block heater thats never been used I am going to make sure it wont fry before I plug it in. Some car batteries like the heat and some like the cold its cold in Pittsfield ! Ty for all!

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3 hours ago, MartyZ1 said:

Well theres 10 of them so I'm off a bit. Pittsfield Massachusetts. 

check the battery FIRST before throwing money and labor at something you are NOT sure of... also have them check your alt while they are load testing your battery  save yourself some aggravation.....good luck

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Advance tester says battery needs charge so I might dare to infer that the alternator with 175k on it might need replacing. Advance couldnt test the starter I am going to order one and take the old one to advance for bench test...

 

Edited by MartyZ1
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When you drove it by your other thread, did the charging system warning light come on as you drove? Did you put an electrical load(lights, interior fan) on as you drove? IF light didn't come on, then you should be OK about alternator(even with relatively high miles on it). Also the clutch drive pulley being bad would turn on the charge system warning light(battery icon).

  Also to take note that signal to charge from alternator to system is controlled thru the PCM (ecm) computer.

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I had all the lights blowers stereo all going full together and not and didnt get any cel lights except when I pulled a fuse and reset it with my obd2 scanner. I have a digital voltmeter so I can see what the voltage is at, took it for an hour ride it hasnt been out for that long in 2 weeks or so took a half hour for the voltage to hit 14. Going to start it tomorrow morning it was at 10.58 v this am although I had the trickle charger in the lighter socket it started. Guess I need to look at some specs for the PCM if it only goes to 10.58 volts maybe it can be reset. 175k on the alt I would say.

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Journey started up no problem this am at 28 degrees here in the Berkshires. Voltmeter showed 10.58 again I would assume that the PCM likes this voltage. Now where do I find the service manual for this vehicle seems to be only downloads rather than online access and not free. Maybe I will hit the stealership service dept and pick their  resources a bit. I need to go through all the wire harness and clean connections and use dielectric grease where needed. 

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The voltage was taken with a digital multimeter at the jump points under the hood and with a 12v plug in dash voltmeter. That was before starting the voltage went up to 13.9 or so after it was started. Didnt check what the scanner said I just wanted to clear codes. An hour or so drive got things back to where they should be I think. I've been troubleshooting cars houses and whatever else in need of fixing for 45 years. 

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Was thinking of voltage drop from dirty connection(lack of better word) The Negative connection at the strut tower is a common clean connection issue with these. I'd take a good look at it for "tarnish" and clean shiny and dielectric lube on reconnection.

Seems from your personal info statement, that we share a bit in common!  ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had the battery tested at Advance they said it was down so I put the trickle charger on it through the dash lighter and light on charger was out in half an hour. Car started fine but when I was checking headlight aim with car off it would not start even though I had been running it around. Battery had been replaced last year according to previous owner. The plug in voltmeter shows the voltage going up slow when started, alts that I have replaced show immediate 14.5 v or so instant. Alt has 175k on it my Mercedes went to 200k before it was showing signs. Ordered a new alt, tensioner, idler pulleys and belt. I think that should fix it until a new gremlin pops up. Getting to cleaning all wiring connections too, and a new block ground wire.

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Until I can get a good manual for this vehicle I just follow my instincts as I have generally been right. Cleaning the contact surfaces on the alt itself could be shocking and I have a pacemaker and defibrillator implant that doesnt like high amperage. If you have to replace a battery after a year then the charging system must be gone through to determine why.....the vehicle that this replaced is a 1994 Grand Caravan AWD that I had to remove the remote entry module as it was a parasite. I replaced almost everything in the 12 years I had it. The gas lines off the in tank fuel pump are shot now though and I'm 64 and the garage wont touch it. So its waiting for spring in my yard and I will drop ther tank then......maybe. $500 buys it though!

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Nice vid I dont even know if there is more than one fusebox in mine there wasnt one under the glovebox when I replace the actuator. Not going to replace the stereo just yet the Merc has the system and the radio gets good reception, I dont want to play with it in the cold.  And if there were significant amp draw the trickle charger charge on light would never go completely out I think. When i use the  keyfob to unlock the light goes on and then within a minute its out, indicating full charge. And on it goes! Ty

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