2.4l Throttle body or fuel pump

[mojo]

Hello everyone..

I have recently made several maintenance procedures to my car. 

And while I was replacing the gasket on the intake manifold, I went and cleaned the throttle body it was pretty discolored filled with dirt and oil. The car behaved differently. At cold start it revs at 2000rpm then slowly drops to ~700rpm, it was not normal for my car and thought it was maybe a relearn process. Then a couple of weeks later I went to reclean the intake manifold, change the MAP sensor, and while at it recleaned the throttle body, it was almost clean.

The car when cold, starts normally revs at 1500 and dropps down immediately to ~1000 then idle at ~700.

 

The main issue is, If I am driving on a highway at 100km/h, it is difficult to maintain both the speed and gas pedal position. If I hold the gas pedal at a position where the speed is 100, at times It would accelerate beyond 100 and times below 100km making driving very frustrating. I have to change the gas pedal position to maintain the speed.

Also, the first 1 or 2 centimeters of the gas pedal travel distance has no effect. Flooring the gas pedal  while driving doesn't give much power or huge effect on acceleration.

 

At idle, turning the A/C on almost kills the engine. Which is very weird!. Previously I could feel the load on the engine and it compensate by increasing the rpm.

 

Questions: Is it the throttle body or the fuel pump?

Is third party throttle body worth it (100-200$) or I should stick to Mopar parts.

 

The car is 2.4l 2010 dodge journey with 300,000km (188000miles).

Original throttle body and fuel pump.

I used a canister of seafoam on a full fuel tank (twice) and that  removed the hesitation, stuttering and the misfire.

 

 

[5rebel9]

You have posted of doing s lot of work, yet very little of any warning lights or computer trouble codes IF the CEL icon is on while driving. BUT in my "book" at the mileage and age of your ride, I would believe a throttle body. They are a known weak point on the 2.4 motor. And that is the primary idle control when the engine is loaded down by A/c, coming to a stop and such as you post,

[John/Horace]

If you still have a misfire code for cylinder 1. Deal with that first, put a new plug in and see if code clears.

 

Mopar throttle body part is very pricy; Hitachi makes the oem part and Rockauto sells it new, not remanufactured for less than half the price of dealer. 

[mojo]

Hi again..

No DTC and no MIL check engine light.

 

the cylinder 1 misfire is gone after two full tanks of gas mixed with seafoam.

 

I guess the throttle body is the cause.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

[John/Horace]

Regular obd scanner won’t pick up all codes. Dealer or expensive Snapon etc scanners will. Usually throttle body sets a code when it’s acting up, sometimes even a lightning bolt symbol pops on dash cluster. Car eventually  goes to limp mode with a bad throttle body sensor. Plastic gears attatched to servo start to get stripped.

 

Fuel pumps seldom ever go and they also would set a code of some sort.

 

Whats the compression on cylinder 1, I wonder.