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2010 R/T Hot weather coolant leak


William Burke

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We have a 2010 Journey R/T. When the weather gets hot, we get coolant on our garage floor and I have to refill the reservoir about once a week. I looked and couldn't see the source of the leak definitively. A/C works fine. Cooling fan works, not sure if it works "enough". When should the cooling fan go on? In cool weather, never an issue. Any ideas out there? How should I troubleshoot this? Any ideas would be appreciated. Please no negative attitude responses. Thank you! :)

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Check ALL rubber cooling system hose clamps. IF they are the "spring tension" type and not a screw type, there is every possibility that one or more have actually cracked or broken. This lets coolant "leak away" while parked SLOWLY. The clamp MAY seem tight but a good visual inspection is what's needed to find a broken spring tension clamp. I recently bought a Buick Lucerne CHEAP from a constant coolant loss that turned out to be a broken clamp of this type for the lower rad hose to radiator connection. By design of the car a mirror was needed to see the break on the bottom of the clamp, opposite of the "tabs" to squeeze the clamp open.

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On 9/26/2022 at 5:16 PM, 2late4u said:

it could also be a cracked coolant reservoir tank, next time parking it put some paper down so you can see where it is dripping from as well,, also you could get the system pressure checked

I actually replaced the reservoir tank about a year and a half ago. Are they notorious for cracking?

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On 9/26/2022 at 4:14 PM, 5rebel9 said:

Check ALL rubber cooling system hose clamps. IF they are the "spring tension" type and not a screw type, there is every possibility that one or more have actually cracked or broken. This lets coolant "leak away" while parked SLOWLY. The clamp MAY seem tight but a good visual inspection is what's needed to find a broken spring tension clamp. I recently bought a Buick Lucerne CHEAP from a constant coolant loss that turned out to be a broken clamp of this type for the lower rad hose to radiator connection. By design of the car a mirror was needed to see the break on the bottom of the clamp, opposite of the "tabs" to squeeze the clamp open.

Will give that a try. TY!

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Thanks everyone. It ended up being a leak in the heater hose assembly. Plastic Y fitting cracked. I could just have the fitting replaced, but everyone suggests just replace the whole assembly, giving the age of it. Had 2 mechanics diagnose it the same.

Replace the Y, then soon a hose or hoses spring leaks and do it all over again. Part of the exhaust needs to be moved out of the way. Mostly a labor thing. A bit pricey just because of labor. At least it wasn't the heater core or the radiator. :)

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  • 1 month later...

Makes sense,  better than getting stranded. Daughter in law has a 2012 with 2.4 engine, it’s a tee connection for hers, no rear heat.  I did the coolant manifold on side of engine already, started to get a large drip. not too tricky. The tee should be changed as well, will do it his summer. 

 

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Rock lists a with and without oil cooler version of the upper rad hose for the 2.4. I though only 3.6 has the oil cooler, weird.

They also sell the $11 repair tee fitting made by continental, some one posted it also split shortly after install. If double clamped on both sides,  you would think it would stand up. Gates makes a lot of oem cooling parts, if too much price difference from dealer part, I have used their stuff occasionally.

 

 
Price  
 
CONTINENTAL 65652  - Priced Per Foot  Info
 
 
 
 
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CAD$13.98


 

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Edited by John/Horace
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19 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Makes sense,  better than getting stranded. Daughter in law has a 2012 with 2.4 engine, it’s a tee connection for hers, no rear heat.  I did the coolant manifold on side of engine already, started to get a large drip. not too tricky. The tee should be changed as well, will do it his summer. 

 

Replaced the whole assembly and voila! All good! Thanks!

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