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13 Journey SE 195,000 rough idle, all lights flicker


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I have a 13 journey, high miles. We had a bad storm in Ohio, after the storm, I noticed my car battery died. I charged battery, my car turned over and gave me a rough idle, all my lights were flickering. I had a cylinder 1 misfire, I bought all new Bosch Platinum pre-gapped plugs and installed them. I took my battery out and charged it inside and measure 12.6VDC before I put it in. I started it up, the engine light is gone but I still have a rough idle, rpm’s bouncing and all my lights are flickering. I have videos but it won’t let me upload them.   I’m lost at this point, and like most others on here funds aren’t really there to take it to the dealer. 

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Once again engine troubles need to have engine size posted more important than trim level SE. BUT I'll assume the 2.4 , 4 cyl.

How old is the battery? You also need to have the battery LOAD TESTED for dying cell, which will cause a lot of issues with flickers and poor running.

Just went thru some bad weather huh, try SEAFOAM in the fuel tank to help clean out the injectors and rest of fuel system... you should be surprised at what this can help out with your posted symptoms.

Check Engine Light or the ETC throttle light if on will set codes ..if battery does not die. Have the car's computer scanned at an Autozone or other that do it for free and post those code numbers here for further assistance.

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agree with 5rebel9 comment we need more important info,, also get it down to a part store for the battery load check and also the alternator check as well...also you should have used the OEM plugs and for the 2.4 they are real cheap less than 415 as the OEM are what the manufacture found to work best,,,,I would bet you you need a NEW battery as that is very important for the journeys to run on  

 

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The engine is a 2.4L. My apologies for missing that in that title. I got the battery July, 23, 2022. I started my car to do a load test on my battery, and I had a code for a cylinder 1 misfire. I swapped coil 1 to 4 and the engine light stayed on and the same cylinder 1 misfire code was there. The load test came out to have 14.78 the highest and then it would surge down to 12.15 and bounce in between there. I can’t read the alternator with my meter leads when my car is on the ground. The alternator is hard to get to. 

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A PROPER battery load test requires a special tester, using a cranking cycle of the vehicle is NOT good enough. 7 months ago for a "new" battery, I would also go back in to the battery and clean posts and connectors.... yeah a real PAIN. Make sure terminal clamps are TIGHT to posts..

As for misfire, could be a broken wire connector to the #1 coil, and the possibility of a few other things. 

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