2012 3.6 Engine replaced no start now.

[ford_67]

I recently replaced the 3.6 in my wife's 2012 AWD. It will crank but will not start. It has 9 different codes it is throwing. Here they are as they appear on my scan tool.

P2135   Throttle Position Sensor 1 / 2 Correlation.

P2072    Electronic Throttle Control System - Ice Blockage

P2110    Electronic Throttle Control System Bank 1 - Forced Limited RPM

P2101    Electronic Throttle Control Motor Performance - Bank 1

P0222    Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low 

P0522    Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit Low

P2111    Electronic Throttle Control System - Unable to Close - Bank 1

P0335    Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit

P0520    Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit

The other thing is that I noticed is the transmission selector will not move if the key is on and Bake pedal is pressed.

Things I have checked:

All the fuses in the engine compartment, I have checked the power to the fuel pump. I also switched out the throttle body (relearned the position as well). Cleared the codes and they all came back. I think the engine oil codes are because it is new and has never started. I just do not see a bunch of sensors going bad all of a sudden. I appreciate any suggestions.

 

[John/Horace]

Welcome to the site. That’s a major install job, the 3.6 is not that easy to work on.

A lot of plugs to reconnect on the newer engines; try double checking harness for any not connected plugs.

Its possible the range selector switch is not matched up with the physical position of the switch in the transmission.

You need to try to get car in neutral position or park, the only two positions where ecm will run fuel pump and fire injectors.

Usually starter won’t even engage if car is not in park or neutral. 
 

I don’t think throttle sensor or cam sensors is preventing starting , car would probably run in limp mode. Crank sensor however can disable engine from running. Tricky to trouble shoot sensor, kinda a wear item, around $25 for oem unit. This is a know good used engine ?

 

 

[ford_67]

2 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Welcome to the site. That’s a major install job, the 3.6 is not that easy to work on.

A lot of plugs to reconnect on the newer engines; try double checking harness for any not connected plugs.

Its possible the range selector switch is not matched up with the physical position of the switch in the transmission.

You need to try to get car in neutral position or park, the only two positions where ecm will run fuel pump and fire injectors.

Usually starter won’t even engage if car is not in park or neutral. 
 

I don’t think throttle sensor or cam sensors is preventing starting , car would probably run in limp mode. Crank sensor however can disable engine from running. Tricky to trouble shoot sensor, kinda a wear item, around $25 for oem unit. This is a know good used engine ?

 

 

 

[ford_67]

Just now, ford_67 said:

 

Purchased a rebuilt engine. Fortunately I had access to a lift. Unbolted the suspension and unhooked the wiring going to the chassis. Lifted the body right off. I will get a crank sensor and replace it. That sensor is a beast to get to. The PTU is right in the way. I will give an update hopefully in a day or so. Thanks for the guidance.  

[ford_67]

On 2/7/2023 at 12:24 AM, ford_67 said:

Purchased a rebuilt engine. Fortunately I had access to a lift. Unbolted the suspension and unhooked the wiring going to the chassis. Lifted the body right off. I will get a crank sensor and replace it. That sensor is a beast to get to. The PTU is right in the way. I will give an update hopefully in a day or so. Thanks for the guidance.  

Update. Got the new crankshaft sensor and started the task of installing it. What a pain in butt. The PTU was in the way since it is an AWD, but I was able to get creative and removed the crankshaft sensor and reinstall it without taking the Passenger drive shaft loose and taking the PTU out. I cleared the codes and tried starting the car. It started right up. I let it run for about 5 minutes and read the codes since the engine light came back on. It came up with P0032 O2 Sensor 1/1 Heater circuit High. I am thinking it may be a bad connection since I had it loose when I was working in that area. I am really glad that it was just the crankshaft sensor.

I really appreciate your help John. Great Insight. Thank you very much.

[John/Horace]

Good news. I had to remove a starter one time to install a CPS on daughters Rondo. It’s awkward on a lot of cars.

So you changed it without removing any other parts what so ever ?  Not even motor mount.

[ford_67]

John,

I removed the upper intake and that gave me the room I needed to get in there. I went ahead and swapped the O2 sensor but the code kept coming back. I let the car run to check for leaks. It ran for about 20 minutes the second night and then shut off on it own. I pulled the codes and it gave the following.

P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Circuit Low

P2110 Electronic Throttle Control System Bank 1 - Forced limited RPM

P2135 Throttle Position Sensor 1/2 Correlation

P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit

P0222 Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low

P0032 O2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Circuit High

I was able to get it to restart although it did turn over a few times before it fired up. I only let it run for about 20 seconds. It sounded great the first night it started. I am leaning to a wiring harness issue since I swapped it from the old engine to the new engine. It has been cold and rainy the last few days so I have not been able to work on it. 

[John/Horace]

It seems odd having so many codes at once. Only crank sensor will actually shut off engine.

Maybe try cleaning pins on ecm with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Then reseat the plug.  Bad harness is also a good possibility if it feels brittle.

 

I want to change CPS on wife’s awd 2014 with high milage before it actually fails. Will probably wait for next spark plug change now when the intake manifold is already removed. If it’s doable with only that removed.