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ETC AND TC LIGHT ON


JustDodge

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IMG_4225.MOVOkay, todays vehicle is not my own but my moms 2017 Journey 3.6. Recently took it to a shop Tuesday of last week. We got it back last Friday. Maybe a day or two after, we’ve experienced an issue at start where it’ll kinda ‘hum’ to life for about 5-7 seconds. Rough up/down idling. ETC flashing w TC and TC Off light constant. It’s like it’s fighting to stay on (audibly too). Not sure if it goes into limp mode or not but she was at work and describes she couldn’t even accelerate in a parking lot… I drove it well attempted to myself. It’s like in drive if I let my foot off the brake and not press gas it’s kinda torque-ey like I’m brake boosting it??? We do stay in Michigan but still haven’t had this issue on even colder days but it’s doesn’t just happen cold but after it sat a while. Not start back to back. We’ve experienced this twice in the past 4 days and we’ve always cut the car off and back on again and it’ll start like nothing just happened. I took it back to the shop that worked on it. Was told the Throttle body may need replacement but they inspected and couldn’t find any issues that could cause it. The engine light wasn’t on or throwing any codes. He did say the battery may be bad but outside this… never any issues or signs. Basically couldn’t work on it or tell insurance anything if it’s not a obvious issue. So I’m at a lost? I seen a few topics on this but never really had all these issues exactly. Any help would be nice! I leave a video to what happens on the dash.

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so much info and nothing on why you took it to the garage for the work, and then had problems after the work was done....... also mileage  would be helpful.....i assume the garage is not a dodge dealership as well.wouldn't be the battery if it has enough juice to start it and what about the alt. has it been checked to see if it is putting out enough juice to keep the battery charged? and as far as the throttle body how did they check it? good luck but i would take it to the dealership yes more expensive but more experienced mechanics there...good luck and let us know what the cause is

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2 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

so much info and nothing on why you took it to the garage for the work, and then had problems after the work was done....... also mileage  would be helpful.....i assume the garage is not a dodge dealership as well.wouldn't be the battery if it has enough juice to start it and what about the alt. has it been checked to see if it is putting out enough juice to keep the battery charged? and as far as the throttle body how did they check it? good luck but i would take it to the dealership yes more expensive but more experienced mechanics there...good luck and let us know what the cause is

The work they did was suspension work. It’s at 102k miles. I knew the battery wasn’t an issue because you’d notice signs of that immediately with the typical ticking from a no start or certain accessory not working properly. The voltage on it is also 14.3 alt is good to, so it’s no bad. How the battery was a possible problem?? I’m not sure. A dodge dealership was on my list but I wanted the people who worked on it to actually look and fix whatever the my possibly could’ve done, also due to warranty would’ve covered it. Then I came here to see if anyone else had this issue specifically. Haven’t seen that so far. Jut will update. 

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It’s going into limp mode it seems. Could just be a coincidence it’s happening after car was worked on. It’s not easy to do something to a car to create intermittent failure days later…randomly.  Not exactly a new car either.

 

Codes are usually stored when limp mode triggered. Sometimes multiple codes that make it hard to pinpoint the problem. Throwing parts gets expensive fast,  honest mechanics don’t like to do that. 
 

 Could  be anything from bad gas to a CPS, crank position sensor that is a fairly cheap wear item ($30 ish) or possible electronic throttle body starting to act up. Plastic gears on stepper motor can start to bind up.There is a recalibrate sequence for throttle assembly. Search the site for it, diy procedure. 
 

Being in the North, adding some gas line antifreeze to your fuel is also worth trying. Cheap to do, older stations can sometimes have an issue. Or just run a tank of high test through the car, lots of addditives in expensive high test fuel.

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1 minute ago, John/Horace said:

It’s going into limp mode it seems. Could just be a coincidence it’s happening after car was worked on. It’s not easy to do something to a car to create intermittent failure days later…randomly.  Not exactly a new car either.

 

Codes are usually stored when limp mode triggered. Sometimes multiple codes that make it hard to pinpoint the problem. Throwing parts gets expensive fast,  honest mechanics don’t like to do that. 
 

 Could  be anything from bad gas to a CPS, crank position sensor that is a fairly cheap wear item ($30 ish) or possible electronic throttle body starting to act up. Plastic gears on stepper motor can start to bind up.There is a recalibrate sequence for throttle assembly. Search the site for it, diy procedure. 
 

Being in the North, adding some gas line antifreeze to your fuel is also worth trying. Cheap to do, older stations can sometimes have an issue. Or just run a tank of high test through the car, lots of addditives in expensive high test fuel.

Will do, it was a coincidence for sure. I did check the camshaft position sensors those seemed fine. Pushed all the harnesses and everything I thought of in just to make sure. 

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TC light can come on from abs sensor issue.  Code would show which wheel is an issue. If ETC light means the lightning bolt symbol , that points to electric stepper motor on the throttle assembly. Should be stored code as well. Try calibration procedure first. Super gasoline is for trouble shooting as well.

Edited by John/Horace
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3 hours ago, John/Horace said:

TC light can come on from abs sensor issue.  Code would show which wheel is an issue. If ETC light means the lightning bolt symbol , that points to electric stepper motor on the throttle assembly. Should be stored code as well. Try calibration procedure first. Super gasoline is for trouble shooting as well.

Gonna pop back in, I actually pulled two codes. Following me being told there were none, one being C121C-00 and the second being U0401-00.

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On 3/15/2023 at 4:54 PM, JustDodge said:

Gonna pop back in, I actually pulled two codes. Following me being told there were none, one being C121C-00 and the second being U0401-00.

4 days later. I only went back over their work. Removing intake and putting it back together how I know it goes, it wasn’t anything out of place but I haven’t been having the issue since. May have been a loose wire. I still have those codes though. 

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