Bad engine/trans mounts?

[x_orange90_x]

This is my 2017 DJ AWD with a 3.6L. When shifting I get jolts and hesitation. I had my wife record the engine bay while I shifted through all of the gears manually. It looks like it moves a lot but I'm not an expert. Also I'm hearing some strange noises in this video (other than my daughter ?). 

 

This is the link to the video. It's only available for 2 days tho, but I'm trying to upload it to my Google Drive.

 

https://streamable.com/s8479y

 

Can you guys tell me what you think? 

[x_orange90_x]

Here is another link to the video:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F87myKe4FoIzdnhywZ5rlrdLRLm75rU-/view?usp=drivesdk

[tsteves5]

That's a lot of movement with no real load on the engine.  I would definitely check/replace the motor mounts.  Could be more than one that needs replaced.

 

I had a bad mount in mine and the engine would twist back so far during hard acceleration from stop that it would make a buzzing sound as the back of the engine touched something on the firewall.

[x_orange90_x]

34 minutes ago, tsteves5 said:

That's a lot of movement with no real load on the engine.  I would definitely check/replace the motor mounts.  Could be more than one that needs replaced.

 

I had a bad mount in mine and the engine would twist back so far during hard acceleration from stop that it would make a buzzing sound as the back of the engine touched something on the firewall.

I thought it seemed excessive. Just imagine how it feels when I accelerate hard! I kinda drive this like a grandpa because I don't like the hard shifting and jerking it does if I get on it. It will sort of shimmy too going into 6th gear. Which btw I have to ask, is it normal that it absolutely refuses to go into 6th until it hits 2000rpm? I will be cruising at 55 and it will be in 5th gear until I go over 2000rpm, then it goes into 6th.

 

I have 95k on it and I know I'm about due for a fluid change, but I think mounts may be half of my problems.

[tsteves5]

I'm not entirely sure about the 6th gear and 2000 rpm issue.  I'll have to pay attention to mine the next time I drive it.

[tsteves5]

Under light acceleration, my 2011 shifts into 6th gear at about 45 mph and 1500-1700 rpm.  It looks like it varies a little bit.

[x_orange90_x]

On 7/23/2023 at 12:07 AM, tsteves5 said:

Under light acceleration, my 2011 shifts into 6th gear at about 45 mph and 1500-1700 rpm.  It looks like it varies a little bit.

That's quite a bit different from mine. I don't know if I should get my fluid changed or just have the trans looked over. I have an extended warranty through WYNN but I've heard they're not good when you actually try to make a claim ?

[tsteves5]

If it were mine, I would drop the pan, change the filter and replace the 4-5 quarts of fluid that is possible with a pan drop.  Depending upon how dark the fluid is, I might drive it a while, then change the fluid a second time too.  You can suck it out with a hand pump through the filler hole.  You need an after-market dip stick and the temperature fill chart to do this on your own.

 

If you take it somewhere, avoid anywhere that will "flush" out the system.  It's too hard on transmissions and will most likely cause more problems than good.

[2late4u]

On 7/24/2023 at 6:38 AM, x_orange90_x said:

That's quite a bit different from mine. I don't know if I should get my fluid changed or just have the trans looked over. I have an extended warranty through WYNN but I've heard they're not good when you actually try to make a claim ?

i would have the eng mounts changed as well as having the trans fluid changed BUT after i did the mounts ,just so you could see which one might have helped the problem

[x_orange90_x]

21 hours ago, tsteves5 said:

If it were mine, I would drop the pan, change the filter and replace the 4-5 quarts of fluid that is possible with a pan drop.  Depending upon how dark the fluid is, I might drive it a while, then change the fluid a second time too.  You can suck it out with a hand pump through the filler hole.  You need an after-market dip stick and the temperature fill chart to do this on your own.

 

If you take it somewhere, avoid anywhere that will "flush" out the system.  It's too hard on transmissions and will most likely cause more problems than good.

I've seen others in the forum talk about changing the fluid themselves and using some sort of makeshift dip stick. Kinda scares me. Is this a difficult task to do? What materials would I need?

[2late4u]

2 hours ago, x_orange90_x said:

I've seen others in the forum talk about changing the fluid themselves and using some sort of makeshift dip stick. Kinda scares me. Is this a difficult task to do? What materials would I need?

you can google it off youtube as to see how to mark your oil dipstick ( i did that myself ,so i could always be able to check it), as far as changing your trans fluid and replacing the filter that is up to you weather you feel you can do it yourself...i myself i just let the dealership do it ,yes more expensive but i also have the mopar warranty and just wanted it on the record that they had done it

[x_orange90_x]

I just watched a video on this. I will go ahead and do it myself. My only concern is the level of fluid. If I use my oil dipstick to check the level before and after, how do I know I have the correct levels? Shouldn't it be a set amount like 5qts just the same as motor oil? If I am for some reason low to begin with and I only put that much back in then I'd be low after as well.

 

Also, if I decided to do a change, drive, change again to flush it out, could I use a cheap fluid for the short period of time and then put the correct fluid in the second time?

[2late4u]

2 hours ago, x_orange90_x said:

I just watched a video on this. I will go ahead and do it myself. My only concern is the level of fluid. If I use my oil dipstick to check the level before and after, how do I know I have the correct levels? Shouldn't it be a set amount like 5qts just the same as motor oil? If I am for some reason low to begin with and I only put that much back in then I'd be low after as well.

 

Also, if I decided to do a change, drive, change again to flush it out, could I use a cheap fluid for the short period of time and then put the correct fluid in the second time?

if you mark your dip stick like in the video OR go by a test dip stick that the part stores sell for our journeys when you add the fluid you go by the dip stick,,,i marked mine before  i had the dealership change it and it came out right in the middle where it should be......and NO you will never remove the same amount of fluid every time, you could catch it all in a pan then measure it minus what you cant get out off the pan, and always use the correct trans fluid,not sure of what you are asking about cheap trans fluid if it is the correct type....as i said before fix your eng mounts BEFORE you mess with the trans just to see if it helps but you are coming due for the trans service.... JUST wondering have you had the journey checked for any set codes that might be in the memory?   also why not have the trans looked at by your after market warranty for any info they may give you as well

[x_orange90_x]

26 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

if you mark your dip stick like in the video OR go by a test dip stick that the part stores sell for our journeys when you add the fluid you go by the dip stick,,,i marked mine before  i had the dealership change it and it came out right in the middle where it should be......and NO you will never remove the same amount of fluid every time, you could catch it all in a pan then measure it minus what you cant get out off the pan, and always use the correct trans fluid,not sure of what you are asking about cheap trans fluid if it is the correct type....as i said before fix your eng mounts BEFORE you mess with the trans just to see if it helps but you are coming due for the trans service.... JUST wondering have you had the journey checked for any set codes that might be in the memory?   also why not have the trans looked at by your after market warranty for any info they may give you as well

What I meant was put the cheapest ATF 4 fluid in and drive for a few miles then drain it and put in higher quality fluid for the long haul. That's IF I needed to do it. 

 

I know I'm due for the fluid and filter change now, and I don't think bad mounts would delay my shifting into 6th great as I stated earlier. For those reasons I think I should just change the fluid first and foremost. 

 

I would actually love to have it checked out but I'm not looking forward to trying to make a claim on the warranty because of the horrible reviews I've read. I don't want to get stuck paying thousands of dollars because someone tore it apart to look at it.

 

 

 

 

[x_orange90_x]

Here is a video of it shifting through all the gears as I drove this morning. Steady acceleration, no stopping, just shifting from 1st through 6th. You can see how high the rpms go before it shifts, and also the hesitation before going into gear. You can also hear how loud it gets. Sometimes I'll even hit 4500rpm before going into 5th gear. 

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HX9x8NjhaSG6PvrQdAVNDlZdJlDglVSb/view?usp=drivesdk

Edited July 28, 2023 by x_orange90_x

[5rebel9]

YOUR procrastination to doing anything is doing the car more harm. Take it from a guy who has 3 of these. TWO of which developed trans problems. Is the check engine light on when you drive the car??? IF soo even an autozone store will scan it for free and could point to what is going on. CHEAPEST WAY to figure out what is going on after a good scan IS to drop the pan and change the filter and oilAND looing for any metallic grindings in the pan. YOU have been given good advice on your posts, stop procrastinating!

[x_orange90_x]

27 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

YOUR procrastination to doing anything is doing the car more harm. Take it from a guy who has 3 of these. TWO of which developed trans problems. Is the check engine light on when you drive the car??? IF soo even an autozone store will scan it for free and could point to what is going on. CHEAPEST WAY to figure out what is going on after a good scan IS to drop the pan and change the filter and oilAND looing for any metallic grindings in the pan. YOU have been given good advice on your posts, stop procrastinating!

I'm actually picking up everything today to change the filter and fluid. You're right about it being the cheapest option and I have a strong suspicion that the filter is plugged. As for a CEL, no it's not on nor have I seen it on since I bought it in the spring.

[5rebel9]

Great! Make sure to use ONLY the ATF+4 that is called for. 

Yes if the trans has to be removed for MAJOR work, it is a BIG JOB and lots of $$$$

And yes the 2 of mine are repaired and doing fine. One needed the valve body replaced and the other needed a torque converter. I got these with over 150k miles and fluids were done, but not until I got them! Yes times are tough, but most people just don't want to do preventive maint. as called for.

[x_orange90_x]

12 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

Great! Make sure to use ONLY the ATF+4 that is called for. 

Yes if the trans has to be removed for MAJOR work, it is a BIG JOB and lots of $$$$

And yes the 2 of mine are repaired and doing fine. One needed the valve body replaced and the other needed a torque converter. I got these with over 150k miles and fluids were done, but not until I got them! Yes times are tough, but most people just don't want to do preventive maint. as called for.

I'm going with Valvoline ATF +4 Full Synthetic, Carquest filter, and a Fel-Pro pan gasket. 

 

Any tips or additional info I might need? I looked up how to mark my oil dipstick. Looks like I just need to drain, change filter and fill? 

 

I see online the trans holds 9qts but you can only drain out a little over 5qts. Is this why some people recommend doing the job twice consecutively?

[5rebel9]

Yes a pan drop and filter would only require about 5 quarts MAYBE 1/2 quart more, NO matter of what drained out if less of the original. I've had good luck with Walmart ATF+4, particularly if you drop the pan again soon after the initial drain. It's also less expensive!

I've found that at operating temp {fully warmed up} that right at 1" reading on the CLEANED OFF engine oil dipstick is a proper fill level on these trannies. 

I go back over 30 years with driving Dodge/Chrysler products, maintained properly and NOT ABUSED they do good service in return. NO VEHICLE is a living room couch that needs no maint., treat any car as they should and they will perform as designed.

 

You will probably find the pan is sealed with RTV when you go to lower it, a 2"wide paint scraper and light tapping between the pan and trans . will get it free. AFTER you drain a second time after a couple k miles, I would use RTV rather than a premade gasket... less chance of developing seepage or leak. 

[x_orange90_x]

1 hour ago, 5rebel9 said:

Yes a pan drop and filter would only require about 5 quarts MAYBE 1/2 quart more, NO matter of what drained out if less of the original. I've had good luck with Walmart ATF+4, particularly if you drop the pan again soon after the initial drain. It's also less expensive!

I've found that at operating temp {fully warmed up} that right at 1" reading on the CLEANED OFF engine oil dipstick is a proper fill level on these trannies. 

I go back over 30 years with driving Dodge/Chrysler products, maintained properly and NOT ABUSED they do good service in return. NO VEHICLE is a living room couch that needs no maint., treat any car as they should and they will perform as designed.

 

You will probably find the pan is sealed with RTV when you go to lower it, a 2"wide paint scraper and light tapping between the pan and trans . will get it free. AFTER you drain a second time after a couple k miles, I would use RTV rather than a premade gasket... less chance of developing seepage or leak. 

I was actually looking to get Super Tech but the Walmart website isn't showing it. Only regular ATF and motor oils. Should I unplug the battery and let the trans relearn shift points, or just leave as is and let it correct them as I go?

 

I will report back my findings sometime this weekend.

[x_orange90_x]

Finished up tonight. Everything went smoothly as far as I can tell. I'll be driving it in the morning to work. I couldn't get a good reading on the dipstick when I started, the level was way off the mark. So either I didn't get the stick all the way in our the fluid was really low. I put exactly 5.5qts back in though. 

 

Attached is a photo of the filter and magnet. The fluid was very dark, like a deep red/black color. 

[2late4u]

if you used you oil dip stick it should bottom out as it cant be put in to far,if your not sure if you marked the dip dtick right them you can buy a test stick from a part store............

 

[x_orange90_x]

Just now, 2late4u said:

if you used you oil dip stick it should bottom out as it cant be put in to far,if your not sure if you marked the dip dtick right them you can buy a test stick from a part store............

 

I'm pretty certain I marked it correctly. It went pretty far down in there and I DID get fluid on it. See attached picture.

[x_orange90_x]

My fluid level was at almost the exact same spot as in that video. So I must've been low? I'm going to recheck it later today and see if it's up in the hot range.