3.6 stalling/bucking while driving...FINALLY shows code P0339

[5rebel9]

I did not seem to find any recent postings for this code, so thought I'd start my own.

   I mentioned that we were having this driveability problem thru the summer in HOT weather in one of my responses to another member......

WELL, the wife was out driving her '13 RT awd and the weather was a cool 62*f and the car started acting up badly with the CEL finally coming on. YUP code P0339, that I had suspected from the start but could get no codes. Going to my friends shop now as this is a on a hoist job to replace the crank position sensor. Being an AWD, the darned transfer case blocks decent access to get at the sensor. 

   OF COURSE this happens when a major holiday is right on the doorstep and shops are already swamped!!!!!

Edited August 30, 2023 by 5rebel9

[John/Horace]

I wonder if pulling starter motor off helps install access. It is also awkward to get at. New CPS is in my glove box waiting to go in, haven’t had symptoms yet but milage is there.

[5rebel9]

8 hours ago, John/Horace said:

I wonder if pulling starter motor off helps install access. It is also awkward to get at. New CPS is in my glove box waiting to go in, haven’t had symptoms yet but milage is there.

I doubt that would help as the starter on the 3.6 is on the front side and the CKPS is back side on the 3.6. Located on a FWD with only the right driveshaft in the way{and no problem to get to the CKPS}. BUT the AWD has the transfer case covering it and MINIMAL room to even get a wrench at the single bolt that latches it to the engine block.

 

My friend has only seen 2 other AWD 3.6's have the problem and and his way is to remove the rear bank converter, pull the right axle and possibly unbolt and shift over the transfer case to get to the sensor. WHEN he can get his bay open, he will call me and we'll work on it TOGETHER. Don't look for pic's as I won't have time to take them or the PC skills to post them......LOL

Edited August 31, 2023 by 5rebel9

[5rebel9]

WELL.....

 Since my friend has summer help. they started on the car for an hour last evening and finished by noon today for a 5 hour total job. YES the converter, driveshaft and transfer case had to come out . Although the transfer case just had to be moved out of the way and not completely out. YES the sensor was bad with oil coming thru it into the connector cavity. Seeing how we've only had the car 2 months and that I'd been checking all I could{down to trying another radio module} for the past month, he is mulling over what to charge {if anything} for this labor intensive fix of a cheap $20.00 part. The car is back home and wife is HAPPY again and the Labor Day weekend is here!! Yup and JUST finished mowing the lawn so it looks good for Monday's PARADE that goes past our house!!

[2late4u]

i wouldn't buy any AWD vehicle, there is  just to much potential problems and expense along with the maintenance as well..... and even tho i live in al and we only get a short winter of ice and snow, i grew up in Mi and somehow survived the long winters with just rear wheel drive... with FWD i can drive just about anywhere with ice and snow just as well as AWD

Edited September 2, 2023 by 2late4u

[5rebel9]

9 hours ago, 2late4u said:

i wouldn't buy any AWD vehicle, there is  just to much potential problems and expense along with the maintenance as well..... and even tho i live in al and we only get a short winter of ice and snow, i grew up in Mi and somehow survived the long winters with just rear wheel drive... with FWD i can drive just about anywhere with ice and snow just as well as AWD

 

 Cars are just what they are now..machines. To each person that is their own choice. I don't buy even a "certified pre owned" for a dealer as the price is way too high.  Would I prefer a 3.6 with just FWD? SURE as shooting I would, but all that has been seen in my area are the AWD's...even at dealers. For the $15k invested to get 3 DJ's I'm still money ahead quantity wise to keep 3 drivers HAPPY. YES all 3 are over the 150k miles mark and will need maint that comes with age and miles, but newer and less miles vehicles need maint/repairs TOO. New York rust gremlins here on the western  side of the state are BRUTAL,and all 3 of mine are holding up VERY WELL in resisting their ravages, unlike other make/model cars I've had.

 

Due to the terrain {many hills that southern folk would call mountains} a FWD 2.4 model would just not "cut it" for us. Even these models are not in abundance in my area.

[John/Horace]

For rural winter driving awd is very helpful. City driving if flat and you can chose to not drive in storms; I wouldn’t buy it.  The journey is the best value awd imo. Simple system that works well. 

 

I’m curious where the oil came from that was in CPS sensor. Normally they mount in a blind hole, no fluids. Valve cover leak ? Which shaft removed, passenger c/v shaft and/or awd drive shaft ? Thanks.

Edited September 4, 2023 by John/Horace

[5rebel9]

10 hours ago, John/Horace said:

For rural winter driving awd is very helpful. City driving if flat and you can chose to not drive in storms; I wouldn’t buy it.  The journey is the best value awd imo. Simple system that works well. 

 

I’m curious where the oil came from that was in CPS sensor. Normally they mount in a blind hole, no fluids. Valve cover leak ? Which shaft removed, passenger c/v shaft and/or awd drive shaft ? Thanks.

Take a look at any youtube video for any 3.6 engine crank sensor replacement. I found NONE for those with the AWD trans bolted to that engine. The sensor is mounted near the oil pan flange of the block and therefore has a continual splash bath of engine oil on it.  As for which driveshaft I def. know the pass. front shaft has to come out, the AWD shaft MAY need to come out also, but not confirmed. The transfer case just needs enough movement away to get to the sensor, so that is at the discretion of the person doing the work.

UNFORTUNATELY my guy decided to do the job without me. I will say that this is DEFINITELY a hoist job to do, A FWD would be NO PROBLEM to do on ramps at home, as there is direct access to the sensor.

[5rebel9]

On 9/4/2023 at 8:19 AM, 5rebel9 said:

Take a look at any youtube video for any 3.6 engine crank sensor replacement. I found NONE for those with the AWD trans bolted to that engine. The sensor is mounted near the oil pan flange of the block and therefore has a continual splash bath of engine oil on it.  As for which driveshaft I def. know the pass. front shaft has to come out, the AWD shaft MAY need to come out also, but not confirmed. The transfer case just needs enough movement away to get to the sensor, so that is at the discretion of the person doing the work.

UNFORTUNATELY my guy decided to do the job without me. I will say that this is DEFINITELY a hoist job to do, A FWD would be NO PROBLEM to do on ramps at home, as there is direct access to the sensor.

They did NOT disconnect the AWD {front to rear} driveshaft. Just unbolted and shifted the transfer case over and rearward JUST ENOUGH that with a 3' extension to reach the 6mm {10mm socket} bolt that secures the sensor and have enough room to swap the sensors....JUST ENOUGH room. His helper said NOT A FUN OR EASY JOB.

[John/Horace]

Thanks for that info.  Yes it will be nasty job for sure.  My passenger tranny out put shaft seal already has a slight drip; have bought a new one.  So pulling c/v shaft won’t be a waste of time.  Usually I change CPS on cars once they pass 100k miles; don’t want to get stranded by a a $20 part.
 

The worst I’ve changed was on a Hyundai 3.5 V6. It was behind timing cover and had a 6’ length of cable routed all behind the the timing belt. Dealer part,around $120 as well. People usually changed it while doing timing belt.

 

My daughter in laws 2012 Journey 2.4 lost the CPS at only 80k miles. But it’s easy to change at least.

 

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by John/Horace