Engineerbasher Posted October 13, 2023 Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 I'll start out with it's the wife's car, 2014 Dodge Journey AWD R/T, 153k miles it had 90k when we got it. I change the engine oil/filter an to my knowledge the transmission has never been serviced. There has been a violent clunk from the back while turning for quite some time I think it's the viscous coupling. I did have to change the alternator and replace brake pads/rotors that has been the extent of the repairs/maintenance. Today while running errands the transmission started slipping very badly to the point that it wont move (I'm waiting on a rollback to get it home as I type this) I'm not sure what could cause it to act like this. My first thought was the viscous coupling/differential died but, I'm not even sure if a bad VC/rear differential can cause this symptom. I looked for leaking transmission fluid but there's no obvious leaks, I tried to check the fluid level an there's a handy little cap that says "dealer use only" on it and no dip.............I saw a post about using the engine oil dip to check the trans fluid level an I'll definitely use that method. Thank you to whomever posted that. There are currently no malfunction lights, aside from the clunk/bang from the rear end there's been no transmission issues or really any major problems. This suddenly happened which leads me to think the VC completely broke but I don't know. Would a complete failure of the VC cause this? I'm not sure where to start can anyone point me in a direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineerbasher Posted October 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2023 Ok, I have had an opportunity to to look it over in the daylight. I cannot find anything obviously wrong, no huge puddles or torn hoses. I used the engine oil dip to check the transmission fluid level, it sat overnight and all of today an it's at approximately 75 millimeters. The fluid seems dark an has a very slightly scorched smell. I probably should have flushed it out at the recommended interval, too late for that now. I have a harbor freight ZR13 code reader an pulled a P0992 code an no other ones, the malfunction indicator is not illuminated so Im hoping nothing has been permanently damaged. Google says this code could be caused by a transmission control module failure, low transmission fluid level, transmission fluid pressure sensor failure, or a wiring issue. I'm kinda flying blind here an don't quite know how to proceed, my experience with industrial machinery tells me that changing the fluid/filters is a decent place to start, but probably won't restore drivability. I saw that somebody uploaded a service manual I will consult it. If anyone has any input I would greatly appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 14, 2023 Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 i have a 2014 as well, sounds like the trans is going out on you, mine is JUST FWD but i would assume that since you have an AWD and even if the the rear went out you should still have FWD still, sounds like having it diagnostic will give you exactly what has went wrong and of course that usually cost you some $$ but still cheaper than throwing parts at your journey when you are not sure what is wrong..sorry this has happened to you, but please report back when you find out the problem is for others that might occur this as well........Welcome to the group as well and good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineerbasher Posted October 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2023 (edited) It might be somewhat premature, but I think it's fixed. I decided to change the trans filter an fluid and I took it for a 20 mile trip. It shifts smoothly up and down through all gears. I took it up an down some hills at varying speeds and it seems to be okay. Afterwards I hooked up the code reader and there's no more transmission codes. I was a little concerned about the amount of grey sludge on the magnet in the pan but it really wasn't that much 1/2 teaspoon or so and it was all very very fine. I got the filter from O'Reilly's and the fluid from AutoZone (9qt of Valvoline ATF+4) an of course I forgot to get a funnel so I had to go back to town. I was a little disappointed that the filter "kit" didn't have a gasket or tube of sealant it did have a small seal that I didn't use (I was afraid of damaging the pocket it seals in) The reason I changed the fluid/filter first is because it is the simplest thing. I will monitor for leaks I don't trust silicone only for stuff like this. The 3 rules you need to know in order to fix anything are as follows. 1st) 90%+ of all problems are caused by the operator. (That is, there is no problem, only a perceived problem) 2nd) Try the simplest thing first, if this doesn't work move onto the next simplest thing, an continue. 3rd) This is the probably the most important one of all and often the one that's the most difficult to follow. Don't let the person that called you in tell you what is wrong or what to do. The reason for this one is if they knew what they were doing YOU WOULD NOT BE THERE. I hope this information helps somebody. Edited October 14, 2023 by Engineerbasher 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineerbasher Posted October 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2023 Well, this problem has returned but, is slightly different. Wife went on a errand yesterday an out of nowhere it started slipping but not as badly an was able to limp it home. I had her keep an eye on the trans temperature(I was afraid it would get really hot) an it topped out at 138F which doesn't seem outrageous. When I got home I checked it out, the fluid level seemed ok and not scorched (I was hoping it was low due to a leak) When I start it there's a whining noise that reminds me of the sound of a power steering pump that is low on fluid. There are lots of transmission codes relating to pressure and erroneous gear ratios. I suspect that the trans pump is not working right and cannot shift. I've decided to try another fluid/filter change my thinking is that the filter plugged and is starving the pump and when that doesn't work it'll have to go to a shop which will be painful to pay for. This vehicle has been the most expensive vehicle I've ever bought and unfortunately I've gotten the least miles from it. I see another Toyota in my future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineerbasher Posted October 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2023 I'm not sure what to make of it but it seems that another fluid/filter change has once again restored function. I don't know if the filter is becoming plugged an starving the pump of oil or what. The 2 week old fluid had turned brown but wasn't black or scorched. I hope it doesn't stop functioning again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engineerbasher Posted December 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2023 Well it's been 2 months without further problems, I think it's ok. I talked to a mechanic that works for a multi brand dealership an is factory certified by Toyota and GM. He claims that this isn't unusual, he also said that the easiest way to flush a transmission is to unhook the transmission lines to an from the radiator run one into a bucket an set the other on up with funnel on it. Start the vehicle and pour fluid in and it runs out, keep doing this until the fluid coming out look like the fluid going in, then shut it off and change the fluid/filter as normal. Only downside is that you use 3-4 gallons of fluid. John/Horace and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 10, 2023 Report Share Posted December 10, 2023 Torque converter holds several quarts of fluid that doesn’t drain with a pan drop. Some people do that first,(pan) run the car for a bit and then syphon out as much as possible from tube under the hood. Then refill. I think I was able to pull out 3 quarts using this method. Then added exactly 3 more fresh quarts. You end up doing about 70% of fluid. Which usually stays red and doesn’t go to brown. Depending on change interval. Have tried doing the unhook the tranny lines method in the past. But only return line which goes to a bucket. Funnel to a 1/4” supply line not easy. Running for 25 seconds drains almost whole system, as soon as flows slows a bit I shut off car. Hook back line, refill tranny and run a bit. Then unhook line a second time and repeat. We are lucky ATF+4 is not liquid gold like ZF or some of the other fluids. Still cheaper than a rebuild if it fixes problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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