Pentastarguy Posted November 30, 2023 Report Share Posted November 30, 2023 (edited) Some context to my weak and intermittent heat issues on passenger side Vehicle is a 2011 dodge journey RT (front vents only) Recently my Journey sprung a leak at the thermostat housing, it was replaced with an aluminum housing and new thermostat, shortly after I noticed a leak while in a stretch where I could not stop as there was no shoulders and had a couple youngsters with me ,the vehicle came close to total over heating, I managed to get some coolant to fill it back up and get it where I needed to. Upon further inspection I replaced the following as faults were all found in the following Radiator, Water Pump, new thermostat housing with thermostat, new oil cooler as it was leaking, new rad cap ,everything was replaced the system was vacuum filled and purged of all air, upon testing we were getting excellent heat out of all four front vents, it was pressure tested it held at 16 psi or something for how ever many hours it was left sitting and no leaks and also held vacuum. I confirmed the doors were opening and closing when changing heat to cold and cycling the vent settings , the only issue I found on the instrument panel is in climate control when I switch the vents to floor and front vents combo setting it only blows air out of the floor vent, every other vent setting works as it should, floor blows when I set it, front works when I set it, window vent works and window vent floor combo but not the floor and front combo. The next day the outside temperature dipped to below freezing and all of a sudden I had only heat in the far drivers side vent, the other 3 vents (2 middle) and far passenger vent were all blowing cold, The following day was well above freezing, so we flushed the the heater core out really good, the water that was pushed through after clearing out the little bit of coolant that was in the core was clean and clear, it was reverse flushed and same result, clean and clear no clogs or signs of sediment or anything and flow was strong in both directions. upon testing I had super strong heat at all four vents, the outside temperature was 5 Celsius at this time. I drove for approx 25 km and the heat stayed super strong in all four vents, the next day the temperature took a bit of a dip towards freezing, this time my drivers vent was super hot and drivers middle vent was hot, Passenger middle and passenger far vent were stone cold, later that day the temperature went above freezing and the vents all started blowing strong heat again, The heat also follows the same pattern on the windshield vent setting, hot on drivers and cooler as it moves towards passenger side. Providing the temperature stays above freezing I'm ok, but I live in Alberta Canada so eventually I'm looking at minus 20s and minus 30s coming and if this is any indication of what's gonna happen I'm gonna freeze this winter lol I feel like I'm missing something obvious, but just can't seem to figure it out. Im trying to keep a pause on tearing everything apart to get at the heater core, as that's a massive job from what I can see, upon flushing there is nice strong flow that comes out in either direction and nice n clear nothing that visually suggests the core is clogged. Next thing I'm trying is flushing out the block and entire system and vacuum filling the system again, but the bill on this on parts and coolant are starting to kill me lol Any and all advice is greatly appreciated I'm completely stumped on this now. Edited November 30, 2023 by Pentastarguy Added extra part that was replaced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted November 30, 2023 Report Share Posted November 30, 2023 check out you tube for the quick and easy way to replace the heater core from the drivers side,,,sounds like you have a blend door problem and there are at least 3 of them checkout YouTube as well on them, since you are getting good heat at times then it has to be the blend doors giving you the problem..good luck and please report back on what you find to be your answer to your problem for others to learn from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 3, 2023 Report Share Posted December 3, 2023 (edited) When the blend door sticks the best indicator is the windshield starts to fog up. When car is turned off the door defaults to open position to help dump moisture from interior, prevent mould smell. You can watch it move when triggered. The blend door is located behind glove box, it’s around $50 but is awkward to replace. Heater cores seem to get plugged up when oat and hoat coolants are cross mixed. 2011-13 was one type, then it switched. Heat exchanger is a common wear item, good to get it swapped out. Edited December 3, 2023 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatguy01 Posted October 25 Report Share Posted October 25 I just replaced the heater core in my 2010. I did the cut and splice method. Heat is now Death Valley in all vents. Prior I had heat only on driver side. If you search a flush of the heater core may look fine but the passenger side is usually caked up so even though you get 'clean' fluid it's only flushing one half of the unit. All aside the swap too me about an hour to do. Quick system bleed and all was good. My 2010 uses HOAT coolant so I bought Zerex G05 to top off what was removed when changing out. Be careful and don't mix coolant types. 2late4u and John/Horace 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 26 Report Share Posted October 26 YUP, I did my son's 2011 Southern transplant heater core that way{cut&splice} 2 years ago. I've got to replace it AGAIN for the same problem. The car came to us with a heavily "gunked up" cooling system 5 years ago. With the newer year than yours, there is a little more to remove under the dash due to an airbag mounting, but YES not difficult timewise to do this way. And yes, over that 2 years I have flushed out the core and system at least twice a year! UNFORTUNATELY this low heat pass. side problem only shows up in colder weather to make repair actions a priority!..... LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted October 26 Report Share Posted October 26 7 hours ago, 5rebel9 said: UNFORTUNATELY this low heat pass. side problem only shows up in colder weather to make repair actions a priority!..... LOL The easiest solution to this is be the driver and wear earplugs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted November 7 Report Share Posted November 7 Just a quick update on my son's '11 I just got done replacing the heater core for the 2nd time since getting the car. It was so much easier to do since all that was needed was to cut the new cores tubes exactly as the old core and exact length cut the 2 5/8" hoses to splice all back together. Heat is better than when I last replaced the core 4{?} years ago In fack after 6 miles from dead cold start, I HAD to cut the temp. setting down on a 46^f test drive! His Fiance does NOT appreciate the COLD ride when riding "shotgun" with him ! yyz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted November 8 Report Share Posted November 8 Hi 5R9, Would you post a picture of your spliced connections on the heater core tubes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted November 8 Report Share Posted November 8 (edited) I found this on YouTube. Eric O., South Main Auto. Heater core flush using CLR on a Journey. https://youtu.be/LtnVyFNyU1w?si=uXpf8K_FffQeEqJ3 Edited November 8 by Dean H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted November 8 Report Share Posted November 8 13 hours ago, Dean H said: Hi 5R9, Would you post a picture of your spliced connections on the heater core tubes? Sorry, but the job is finished and all is "buttoned" back up under the dash. I don't care to take lower dash panel and foot duct for drivers side back out for pictures. When I do repairs, I work to get the job done and on to the next project. There ARE YOUTUBE videos of the process I used that gave me the "guts" to do the "cut and splice" way of heater core replacement. Even my shop owner friend was impressed with how this worked out, he has done "flushes" with mixed results on a number of DJ's, and after doing a dash removal and replacement last summer does NOT wish to have to do this job the "proper" way. I had "test driven" the car over to his shop while the lower dash and duct were still out { and he looked things over} so I could do final clamp tightening to assure no leaks. Dean H 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted Wednesday at 04:19 AM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 04:19 AM If you read CLR instructions they specifically say not to use with brass, copper or aluminum. It’s very corrosive stuff. Have used it with hard water stains when I lived in a house on well water. As a last resort to get heat back I guess. But only through core, stay away from everything else. I wonder long term if pin holes develop. New core might be safer alternative long term, even with extra clamped connections. My 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted Wednesday at 11:45 AM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 11:45 AM (edited) Thanks for posting this. I missed the part of do not use on aluminum. I'll leave this one for people willing to gamble on it. I aim to give good information, that people can use. Without causing any more issues. Edited Wednesday at 11:46 AM by Dean H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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