bynarie Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 Occasionally the power windows seem to stop working for a day or so but then they will start working again. What happens is that the windows will not go up or down, but you will hear the clicking noise like they are trying to move.. All 4 windows are affected. All 4 switches stop working at the same time and then start working again at the same time. So I'm guessing its not a motor issue. But is there any 1 component that would affect all 4 windows and switches at the same time? Thanks DJC16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 In the interior fuse panel is a 25 amp circuit breaker. It feeds all the power windows. There is another 25 amp circuit breaker near it. For power seats. You could switch them and see what happens. It's up underneath the glove box. Shot in the dark, are you aware of the window lockout switch on the drivers switch panel? Try engaging it both ways to see if it affects anything. DJC16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted March 23 Report Share Posted March 23 On 3/20/2024 at 2:18 PM, bynarie said: Occasionally the power windows seem to stop working for a day or so but then they will start working again. What happens is that the windows will not go up or down, but you will hear the clicking noise like they are trying to move.. All 4 windows are affected. All 4 switches stop working at the same time and then start working again at the same time. So I'm guessing its not a motor issue. But is there any 1 component that would affect all 4 windows and switches at the same time? Thanks question ,,,,is it each window doing it with their door button? or are you saying it is happening from the drivers door control buttons? there has been a wiring problem that is in the lower drivers door jamb that the wires are breaking / or shorting out DJC16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted March 23 Report Share Posted March 23 A broken wire in the harness can cause strange issues as they can occasionally make contact and work... I had to replace the harness 2late4u and DJC16 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto Posted March 24 Report Share Posted March 24 On 3/23/2024 at 10:30 AM, larryl said: A broken wire in the harness can cause strange issues as they can occasionally make contact and work... I had to replace the harness ^^^ What I have seen in comparing the strand count on wires of the same gauge, across a span of 47 years (my 1946 Plymouth compared to a 93 Chrysler T&C) is that they used a much higher strand count wire on the older car, when compared to the later model one. More strands = greater ability to withstand repeated flexing. And about the only place where there was more or less constant flexing on the old car was in the engine harness. Incidentally, however, that's also where I saw the most wire failure in the 93. I would have expected to find it in the door to body harnesses. But come to think of it, I'm not sure I did a strand count on those wires on the 93. Should do that sometime, because they just may have used high strand count wire in those constant flex areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadaZ Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 Hello, new here and was hoping for some help. I haven't had power or control from the drivers door for a few months now, hoping for any suggestions. I've taken the door panel off and checked the wires there and in the hinge as best as as I can and do not see anything out of the ordinary. I checked and even replaced my drivers door fuse and still nothing. It all started when I replaced the switch as one of the buttons completely broke off. Bought a new switch and everything worked fine but after 2 days there was no power to the drivers door switch. Cant control any windows, locks or mirrors and no light coming from under the switch. I even plugged the old switch with the broken button to see if it would light up as it did previously but nothing, no light coming from new or old switch. Also prior to replacing the switch and not having any power to the door, the passive entry hasn't worked on the drivers side but works fine on the passenger side. Not sure if the 2 issues are related. My vehicle is as 2015 Dodge Journey SXT 3.6L Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 (edited) 55 minutes ago, CanadaZ said: Hello, new here and was hoping for some help. I haven't had power or control from the drivers door for a few months now, hoping for any suggestions. I've taken the door panel off and checked the wires there and in the hinge as best as as I can and do not see anything out of the ordinary. I checked and even replaced my drivers door fuse and still nothing. It all started when I replaced the switch as one of the buttons completely broke off. Bought a new switch and everything worked fine but after 2 days there was no power to the drivers door switch. Cant control any windows, locks or mirrors and no light coming from under the switch. I even plugged the old switch with the broken button to see if it would light up as it did previously but nothing, no light coming from new or old switch. Also prior to replacing the switch and not having any power to the door, the passive entry hasn't worked on the drivers side but works fine on the passenger side. Not sure if the 2 issues are related. My vehicle is as 2015 Dodge Journey SXT 3.6L Thanks in advance Welcome to the forum! But you should have made your own thread of your problem, less confusion that way. I would go back into the rubber boot between the door and body of the car and recheck for broken wires in there. As passive entry,locks and windows all run through there, and a common problem on all cars with power features, as the drivers door gets the vast majority of use thus flexing the wires inside that rubber boot. YES it's not the easiest place to get at!!! Edited May 9 by 5rebel9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 strange his entire post looks like it has been copied and pasted due to the slight dark color around all the words..looks like we are getting a lot of weird post here all of a sudden jkeaton and larryl 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted May 10 Report Share Posted May 10 13 hours ago, 2late4u said: strange his entire post looks like it has been copied and pasted due to the slight dark color around all the words..looks like we are getting a lot of weird post here all of a sudden Probably posting across multiple forums and facebook. Easier to write once then copy everywhere else. 🤷♂️ CanadaZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 12 Report Share Posted May 12 Checking the wires visually is useful but you didn’t always see wires that are broken off completely. Automotive wire is usually multi strand copper wire. Three quarters of the 50 ish strands might be broken so instead of battery voltage some wires may only carry 5-6 volts…or not enough amps. To function properly. You could take the rubber boot and gently flex the wires a bit with the door open. Then try cycling stuff. If it works momentarily you have found some partially broken wires. Another way is to use a multi meter and measure actual voltage and continuity (broken grounds without power can also disable stuff) on all the wires in the door loom. You could also buy a complete new driver door wire harness. Probably not cheap. larryl and 5rebel9 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted May 12 Report Share Posted May 12 48 minutes ago, John/Horace said: Checking the wires visually is useful but you didn’t always see wires that are broken off completely. Automotive wire is usually multi strand copper wire. Three quarters of the 50 ish strands might be broken so instead of battery voltage some wires may only carry 5-6 volts…or not enough amps. To function properly. You could take the rubber boot and gently flex the wires a bit with the door open. Then try cycling stuff. If it works momentarily you have found some partially broken wires. Another way is to use a multi meter and measure actual voltage and continuity (broken grounds without power can also disable stuff) on all the wires in the door loom. You could also buy a complete new driver door wire harness. Probably not cheap. As I had posted, the wires inside that boot are a problem area on all cars, EVEN my "flagship" model for Buick {Lucerne} had broken wires for the drivers door window on it. Not much working room there, but the most likely place to start checking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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