yyz Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 (edited) So I have had a few times in the last few months where I got a system high voltage code, disappears after restarting the vehicle.Happened once in a while. Now pretty consistently getting dash lights and messages as well as the battery symbol. As well the radio usually reboots and then comes back. Sometimes just the battery light but other times I get ABS, Brake and Traction control as well as a message that Parking assist is not available. Car seems to be running fine other than sometimes looking like a Christmas tree. Usually when it "calms down" it just leaves the battery light on until the next time the other lights can come back on. Today it did a radio reset and battery light and the 2 codes I pulled were a P0563 System Voltage High and a P063A Generator Voltage Sense circuit. Have cleaned up the grounds on both strut towers and the voltage connection at the TIPM. Any ideas? Car has 68k miles 3.6L and has had alternator replaced before , battery was replaced about 2-3 months ago. Edited July 4 by yyz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 4 Report Share Posted July 4 before doing anything else, I would have the battery load checked at your local part store just to make sure it is still okay and also have them recheck the alt as well,start with the easy stuff first. I would also check the battery connections but that would mean you would have to go Thur the wheel well but a loose connection or dirty connection can cause a lot of problems...good luck and PLEASE report back on whatever you find to be your problem for others to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 I'm really starting to lean towards it being the alternator. Again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted July 6 Report Share Posted July 6 The Dodge troubleshooting chart, for your codes point to the alternator or it's wiring. Check this cable. The alternator battery feed connects at the starter stud. Fusible link (orange wire) to 4 gauge to alternator stud. If your wire connections to the alternator are good. It may be the alternator. Electrical troubleshooting and maintenance. Do this it will help. Read my post- https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/ Process of elimination - 1) Battery terminal connections Clean up and tighten every cable connection. Negative battery terminal battery sensor. Exam sensor. Clean every connection on it. Installing sensor, you need to get the sensor seated all the way down. Before connecting any wires. Once seated spin sensor until all wires can be connected. Test the battery we need to know if it meets specifications. Problems on the journey - Read my post- https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18115-electrical-system-fyi-cables/ 1) battery cables are 4 gauge. Too small should have been 2 gauge. The stock positive cables do seem to work. Clean connections are critical. The ground cables seem to be the problem spot. 2) Weak and not enough engine to chassis grounds. People have problems with the battery ground stud to engine block. I recommend owners do these 2 ground upgrades. Their cheap to do and needed. I used a 2 gauge cable from the large ground stud to engine stud. On the passenger side, use 4 or 6 gauge from engine mount to strut tower grounds. Connecting the pass side grounds to the battery ground. Through the engine block. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted July 6 Author Report Share Posted July 6 Thanks Dean, on my list tomorrow is to check the battery terminal connections as like I said it was replaced 3-4 months ago. Tonight it did a dash reset (radio blanked and restarted, no other lights like abs etc came on) and then later the battery symbol came on with nothing else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted July 11 Author Report Share Posted July 11 So just an update, took the wheel off on Saturday and went to work on the battery terminal connections including the battery sensor . Not 100% sure yet but drove the vehicle Tuesday and Wednesday (not far but usually far enough) and the problem has not reared its ugly head again.The battery terminals were a little cruddy but the sensor connection I didn't like the look of it. Will take for a longer spin this Saturday that should be the true test. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 11 Report Share Posted July 11 I live in Al so we don't have the salt and other stuff they use for snow and ice removal on the roads, BUT I have been seeing a lot of videos on youtube lately and so many of them have been on bad ground connections, wires with the corrosion under the protective coatings and broken wires as well and connectors that are broken or gone bad inside of the connectors,also dodges are bad for corrosion under the tpim as well,,,,, I really hope the battery cables after a good cleaning was your problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted July 16 Author Report Share Posted July 16 Well that didn't fix it. Drove it 30-35 minutes to my son's no problems. 20 minutes into the return and it was back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 (edited) Edited July 16 by Dean H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted July 22 Author Report Share Posted July 22 (edited) So an update.Still early days in without a lot of driving but I threw an alternator in again last week. Some short trips but so far the problem has not reoccurred. The troubleshooter in me ( I'm an electronic technician) tells me that should be the problem. With high voltage codes my mind is wrapped with the alternator is the one producing the high voltage .I know the pcm is supposed to control it but the voltage comes from the alternator.Will update again later this eek, some longer trips coming up that should be the deciding factor if it's fixed or not. When I picked up the alternator , I talked to a guy there who is a mechanic and he seemed convinced with what I told him with codes that that should be the fix. By the way , I screwed up the plastic bleeder screw when bleeding after putting the rad hose back on. Pro tip there is a brass Dorman bleeder screw available that is much sturdier. Edited July 22 by yyz 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 23 Report Share Posted July 23 to be honest with most of the electronics these days OEM is the best way to go,yrs ago my dad was having a problem with his alt on his caravan and was on a trip and the mech used a carquest replacement alt and before hew got half way home it went out again and the next mech replaced thur carquest replacement under warranty so all he was out was the labor and by the time he got home it was going bad again, he had it towed to the dodge dealership and they fixed it with an OEM alt and no more problems as long as he owned it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted July 23 Author Report Share Posted July 23 2 hours ago, 2late4u said: to be honest with most of the electronics these days OEM is the best way to go,yrs ago my dad was having a problem with his alt on his caravan and was on a trip and the mech used a carquest replacement alt and before hew got half way home it went out again and the next mech replaced thur carquest replacement under warranty so all he was out was the labor and by the time he got home it was going bad again, he had it towed to the dodge dealership and they fixed it with an OEM alt and no more problems as long as he owned it I'd agree but there is alot of discussion on the 3.6l alternators.Some vehicle had recalls on them and others didn't.I believe the transverse mounted engines didn't get recalled but there seem to be alot of failures even in those vehicles. Oh well, if that fixes it I'm ok with that .Hoping to get another couple of years out of the Journey. Overall I've had reasonable luck with it and quite enjoy the Journey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted July 27 Author Report Share Posted July 27 ok, I'm calling this resolved with an alternator replacement.I am glad though that I cleaned up all the ground connections and battery terminals (also at the TIPM) Dean H and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaveManJedi Posted September 4 Report Share Posted September 4 On 7/22/2024 at 5:07 PM, yyz said: So an update.Still early days in without a lot of driving but I threw an alternator in again last week. Some short trips but so far the problem has not reoccurred. The troubleshooter in me ( I'm an electronic technician) tells me that should be the problem. With high voltage codes my mind is wrapped with the alternator is the one producing the high voltage .I know the pcm is supposed to control it but the voltage comes from the alternator.Will update again later this eek, some longer trips coming up that should be the deciding factor if it's fixed or not. When I picked up the alternator , I talked to a guy there who is a mechanic and he seemed convinced with what I told him with codes that that should be the fix. By the way , I screwed up the plastic bleeder screw when bleeding after putting the rad hose back on. Pro tip there is a brass Dorman bleeder screw available that is much sturdier. Did you reset your tcm and pcm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted September 7 Author Report Share Posted September 7 On 9/4/2024 at 1:46 PM, CaveManJedi said: Did you reset your tcm and pcm? No, but I'm sure with a battery disconnect they did a soft reset. I did clear codes with my scanner but the real underlying problem here was the alternator .I assume it was intermittenly spitting out high voltage and trigerring all the lights/codes. Still running fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 7 Report Share Posted September 7 (edited) With the battery management systems it’s a little trickier to trouble shoot alternators now. Ours started to drop amperage/voltage when it got up to full temperature. A meter would show it dropping from 14.5 to 12-13 volts, after running 10-15 mins. Torque coupler can even be part of alternator problems. Curious did you go new or reman unit, new are crazy expensive but normally better. A plastic oil leak deflector guard came with a dealer reman unit and a 2 year warranty. 2014 never had this from the factory, fits on top of alt with different studs that were included. Edited September 7 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyz Posted September 8 Author Report Share Posted September 8 I put in a reman unit that I got for $160 Canadian. One before that lasted about 4-5 years from Canadian Tire and cost me $300 or so.The orginal unit had low output voltage and the second one was overvoltage. John/Horace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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