Kiril Posted July 15 Report Share Posted July 15 (edited) Hi lads, I don't know if this one is for here, but I'm mad already after changing of so many parts and the problem is still here. I'm trying to fix vibration on the steering wheel and chassis from 4 months . The vibrations appear between 115km to 127-135km and I can feel them more when I release the gas pedal. However the vibrations are strong enough during acceleration also. There was a small impact in aft RH wheel (you can see attached photo) but everything in the rear suspension has been replaced including the shock absorber with new parts. Balancing of all wheels done. All mentioned below parts are new as well: All brake rotors plus servicing of the calipers. Rear RH and front LH wheel hub/bearing Rear RH drive shaft All front suspension control arm bushings Drive shaft center support bearing Drive shaft balance perform Drive shaft rear coupler. The vibrations are more when I drive with the 19" DOT 2022 wheel but they are present with the 17" as well. From 100 to 115 km the vibrations are on the steering wheel and they're stronger when I release the gas pedal (without using the brake.) From 125 to 140 the vibrations are mostly on the chassis and seats. Every day I drive 80km with speed 120-140 and this vibration is very annoying. I'm close to burn this car. Edited July 15 by Kiril Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 No mention of condition on the tie rods,ball joints, how is the 4 wheel alignment been done recently,might have some frame/underbody damage out of square? The front struts could be part of the problem ,so many things it could be that cant be answered over the internet,,you need to find a qualified dealership or body shop,as you have certainly unloaded the parts cannon without any success...SO how long have you owned this journey and how many miles are on it ,I have a 2014 with 161k and it rides like a dream...good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiril Posted July 16 Author Report Share Posted July 16 (edited) The car is 2015 and 173000 km or around 107000 miles. Alignment is done and all good. Check of the body done and all good. Fwd strut vibration test and all good. Ball joint are good as well. Now I'm waiting for inner and outer tie rods and fwd RH hub bearing, and these are the last parts that the garage mentioned to me. I have a little concerns about the fwd and aft subframe bushings. Fwd LH and RH drive shaft free play check off the car performed and all good again. Edited July 16 by Kiril Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Is this an AWD or FWD model that you have? IF AWD, you may want to check front power take off unit fluids, rearward shaft carrier bearing, FLEX coupler at rear differential/viscous coupler AND fluid level in rear differential. MY '14 DJ gave me a weird noise and shake a little while ago. The rear diff. gear lube was LOW and the FLEX coupler was VERY cracked{but still together}. I had no sign of fluid leak from the differential, but refilled and then replaced the flex coupler and all has been good since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 8 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said: Is this an AWD or FWD model that you have? IF AWD, you may want to check front power take off unit fluids, rearward shaft carrier bearing, FLEX coupler at rear differential/viscous coupler AND fluid level in rear differential. MY '14 DJ gave me a weird noise and shake a little while ago. The rear diff. gear lube was LOW and the FLEX coupler was VERY cracked{but still together}. I had no sign of fluid leak from the differential, but refilled and then replaced the flex coupler and all has been good since. MY apologies... I should have RE READ your initial posting, sounds like you've pretty much done all I suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiril Posted July 16 Author Report Share Posted July 16 Yeah, but thanks anyway. Probably is something small that we cannot find but after so many parts and so many hours in the garage I'm on the way to give up 😭 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 4 hours ago, Kiril said: The car is 2015 and 173000 km or around 107000 miles. Alignment is done and all good. Check of the body done and all good. Fwd strut vibration test and all good. Ball joint are good as well. Now I'm waiting for inner and outer tie rods and fwd RH hub bearing, and these are the last parts that the garage mentioned to me. I have a little concerns about the fwd and aft subframe bushings. Fwd LH and RH drive shaft free play check off the car performed and all good again. tie rods can give a lot of death wobble vibrations in jeeps due to tie rod play, which it doesn't have to be very bad to cause the vibration John/Horace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiril Posted July 17 Author Report Share Posted July 17 In a few days I will have results from that change 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted July 17 Report Share Posted July 17 All wheel balancing is not equal. At the autobahn speeds you mention you need better than ave balance. The 17” being better is a clue, because it shouldn’t matter. Find a Porsche BMW shop with a Hunter Road Force or other high end German unit. High speed dynamic vibration analysis equip can be used in problems like this. Try a different shop. Trouble shooting can be tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 115 km to 135 km is only around 71 to 83 mph not a very high speed that would require a specially balance of course such a high dollar balance would be better a regular spin balance it should be fine, I usually run between 75 -85 when on trips and have no vibration,,,,I believe he needs to find a better shop to check the unibody damage even so slight as he called it, might even be a slightly bent rim as well something is wrong after shooting the parts cannon off as he has,,as I assume it wasn't doing this before the accident? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiril Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 So we are focused on tie rods inner and outer as well as the fwd RH hub bearing due to corrosion. And this could fix the steering wheel vibrations. We gonna check the rear subframe bushings and this could be the reason for the chassis vibration. The wheels and the tire have been so many times check, especially the rims. With and without tires and we used micrometer. John/Horace and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiril Posted July 20 Author Report Share Posted July 20 Quick update. Aft subframe, aft bushings found in very bad condition and for my it's unusual for car on this miles. Torn and corroded and the RH is cracked. I will gonna change them and will post the result. 2late4u and larryl 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 20 Report Share Posted July 20 well I am sure this would cause you the problems you have been talking about, just wondering did you buy the journey new?or did you buy it after the accident it was in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted July 20 Report Share Posted July 20 Good to hear that you've found the very likely source of your cars concern. YES that is quite unusual to have happen, and I have 3 DJ's to care for of mine. ALL are pushing 200k+ miles and not that problem! 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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