Vibration on the steering wheel and chassis

[Kiril]

Hi lads,

 

I don't know if this one is for here, but I'm mad already after changing of so many parts and the problem is still here.

I'm trying to fix vibration on the steering wheel and chassis from 4 months .

The vibrations appear between 115km to 127-135km and I can feel them more when I release the gas pedal.

However the vibrations are strong enough during acceleration also.

There was a small impact in aft RH wheel (you can see attached photo) but everything in the rear suspension has been replaced including the shock absorber with new parts.

Balancing of all wheels done.

All mentioned below parts are new as well:

All brake rotors plus servicing of the calipers.

Rear RH and front LH wheel hub/bearing

Rear RH drive shaft

All front suspension control arm bushings

Drive shaft center support bearing

Drive shaft balance perform

Drive shaft rear coupler.

 

The vibrations are more when I drive with the 19" DOT 2022 wheel but they are present with the 17" as well.

From 100 to 115 km the vibrations are on the steering wheel and they're stronger when I release the gas pedal (without using the brake.)

From 125 to 140 the vibrations are mostly on the chassis and seats.

 

Every day I drive 80km with speed 120-140 and this vibration is very annoying.

I'm close to burn this car.

 

 

Edited July 15, 2024 by Kiril

[2late4u]

No mention of condition on the tie rods,ball joints, how is the 4 wheel alignment been done recently,might have some frame/underbody damage out of square? The front struts could be part of the problem ,so many things it could be that cant be answered over the internet,,you need to find a qualified dealership or body shop,as you have certainly unloaded the parts cannon without any success...SO how long have you owned this journey and how many miles are on it ,I have a 2014 with 161k and it rides like a dream...good luck

[Kiril]

The car is 2015 and 173000 km or around 107000 miles.

Alignment is done and all good.

Check of the body done and all good.

Fwd strut vibration test and all good.

Ball joint are good as well.

Now I'm waiting for inner and outer tie rods and fwd RH hub bearing, and these are the last parts that the garage mentioned to me.

I have a little concerns about the fwd and aft subframe bushings.

 

 

Fwd LH and RH drive shaft free play check off the car performed and all good again.

Edited July 16, 2024 by Kiril

[5rebel9]

Is this an AWD or FWD model that you have?

IF AWD, you may want to check front power take off unit fluids, rearward shaft carrier bearing, FLEX coupler at rear differential/viscous coupler AND fluid level in rear differential. 

MY '14 DJ gave me a weird noise and shake a little while ago. The rear diff. gear lube was LOW and the FLEX coupler was VERY cracked{but still together}. I had no sign of fluid leak from the differential, but refilled and then replaced the flex coupler and all has been good since.

[5rebel9]

8 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

Is this an AWD or FWD model that you have?

IF AWD, you may want to check front power take off unit fluids, rearward shaft carrier bearing, FLEX coupler at rear differential/viscous coupler AND fluid level in rear differential. 

MY '14 DJ gave me a weird noise and shake a little while ago. The rear diff. gear lube was LOW and the FLEX coupler was VERY cracked{but still together}. I had no sign of fluid leak from the differential, but refilled and then replaced the flex coupler and all has been good since.

MY apologies... I should have RE READ your initial posting, sounds like you've pretty much done all I suggested.

[Kiril]

Yeah, but thanks anyway.

Probably is something small that we cannot find but after so many parts and so many hours in the garage I'm on the way to give up 😭 

[2late4u]

4 hours ago, Kiril said:

The car is 2015 and 173000 km or around 107000 miles.

Alignment is done and all good.

Check of the body done and all good.

Fwd strut vibration test and all good.

Ball joint are good as well.

Now I'm waiting for inner and outer tie rods and fwd RH hub bearing, and these are the last parts that the garage mentioned to me.

I have a little concerns about the fwd and aft subframe bushings.

 

 

Fwd LH and RH drive shaft free play check off the car performed and all good again.

tie rods can give a lot of death wobble vibrations in jeeps due to tie rod play, which it doesn't have to be very bad to cause the vibration

[Kiril]

In a few days I will have results from that change 

[John/Horace]

All wheel balancing is not equal. At the autobahn speeds you mention you need better than ave balance.

 The 17” being better is a clue, because it shouldn’t matter. Find a Porsche BMW shop with a Hunter Road Force or other high end German unit.  High speed dynamic vibration analysis equip can be used in problems like this. Try a different shop. Trouble shooting can be tricky.

[2late4u]

115 km to 135 km is only around 71 to 83 mph not a very high speed that would require a specially balance of course such a high dollar balance would be better a  regular spin balance it should be fine, I usually run between 75 -85 when on trips  and have no vibration,,,,I believe he needs to find a better shop to check the unibody damage even so slight as he called it, might even be a slightly bent rim as well something is wrong after shooting the parts cannon off as he has,,as I assume it wasn't doing this before the accident?

[Kiril]

So we are focused on tie rods inner and outer as well as the fwd RH hub bearing due to corrosion. And this could fix the steering wheel vibrations.

We gonna check the rear subframe bushings and this could be the reason for the chassis vibration.

 

The wheels and the tire have been so many times check, especially the rims.

With and without tires and we used micrometer.

 

[Kiril]

Quick update.

Aft subframe, aft bushings found in very bad condition and for my it's unusual for car on this miles.

Torn and corroded and the RH is cracked.

I will gonna change them and will post the result.

[2late4u]

well I am sure this would cause you the problems you have been talking about, just wondering did you buy the journey new?or did you buy it after the accident it was in?

 

[5rebel9]

Good to hear that you've found the very likely source of your cars concern. YES that is quite unusual to have happen, and I have 3 DJ's to care for of mine. ALL are pushing 200k+ miles and not that problem!

[steve lada]

I have same problem 2015 dodge Journey 126000.mi  steering wheel and seat vibration at 70-80 mph here is my list of replaced parts. new tires balanced probably 5 times struts front and rear brakes,rotors, ball joints, tie rod ends, cv axles, front and rear,intermediate shaft, all 4 wheel hubs with bearings,front steering knuckles,complete drive shaft, rear upper and lower lateral arms.the front lower control arms are solid. after all of this, still vibrates!  I am beside myself. any suggestions?  I'm thinking has to be in the rear end now somewhere?

[5rebel9]

Although not specifically stated, I take it this is a 3.6 engined AWD Journey?

 You stated you are in the Northeast region of the USA, where the heck do you get to go that fast at 70 - 80 mph?

You may want to inspect the front and rear motor mounts and the front and rear sub frame bushings. Sounds like you've already done or checked about all else that can cause such a vibration.

[steve lada]

Here in Michigan in the northern lower posted speeds are 75 mph. so 80 is is quite normal I like to set my cruise at around 83.   I don,t think motor mounts are the issue. they did cross my mind so at the higher speeds I just put the trans in neutral and let the motor rest, vibration still there. I"m now starting to feel the vibration at lower speeds now. so at 60 ish it comes and goes.  I'm thinking about taking the drive shaft back off and having it balanced since it is an after market. (DORMAN)    speaking of the the drive shaft, am I missing anything as far as assembly? is there a certain sequence or something?   now i will look into the rear sub frame bushings for sure. thanks for that!   any other thoughts are most certainly welcomed  Thank-You very much!

[steve lada]

Ohhh sorry. Yes this is a 3.6 AWD

[5rebel9]

Would also be a good idea to check the fluid level of the rear differential and just how good is the flex coupler to rear diff.

I had a weird vibration happen ONCE on my '14AWD and found the rear diff. was almost empty, even though there were no signs of leakage on the differential. Refilled it and the vibration I got went away and has not returned in a year now

Lucky? you for your location for road speed limits. Here in NY posted limits are 65 on main highways, and with my luck the first time I exceed them the law is right there on me....even though I get passed like i'm sitting still!!!!

 

[steve lada]

I was in upstate NY for  my sons hockey tournament some years ago and I remember the speeds only being 65. around here if I'm doing 83 in the fast lane I'll get run over.  great! another idea I will look to the filling of the differential. I replaced the coupler along with the driveshaft and carrier bearing tho  thanks again! I,m on it

[steve lada]

just changed out the differential fluid.jury is still out...how tough are the rear subframe bushings to swap out? cant seem to get a read on this one

[5rebel9]

3 hours ago, steve lada said:

just changed out the differential fluid.jury is still out...how tough are the rear subframe bushings to swap out? cant seem to get a read on this one

I can not honestly tell you how big a job rear subframe bushings may be to do, I've not done them. BUT inspect for cracked/misshapen rubber inserts and corrosion on them FIRST. I do know the bushings are a press out/in part to the subframe....my guess a pretty involving job.

with all the other parts you've replaced, my guess is that you already have had it to an alignment shop for a good 4 wheel alignment?????

[steve lada]

after differential fluid change...vibration still there. Yes I did have the wheels aligned by a very good shop. I'm going to go back and talk to him about these bushings.  I'm starting to think viscous coupler which I know nothing about other than its part of the AWD and that its connected in my path of issues

[John/Horace]

Sounds like a frustrating problem, at least the stuff you have changed out are wear items. If you keep the car you are ahead.

 

You could paint mark all flange connections where driveshaft bolts up; then index the flanges and bolt together again. Or if you have the old shaft you could try reinstalling it. But before reinstalling another driveshaft try driving the vehicle up to vibration speed. If it’s gone you at least have the source. Driving without shaft may trigger a dash light, some people unplug the connector feeding the rear diff. It’s the coil power source for engaging awd.

 

When changing drive shafts mechanics usually mark current location. But with a new shaft it’s not an option. 
Some shops do have special vibration analysis tools for trouble shooting tricky problems.

[2late4u]

no mention if one of the wheels have been hit or bent, I had a brand new journey 2011 came with a vibration ,I tracked it down to one of the rim,s dealer replaced it and fixed the problem I kept rotating front to rear in different   variations on the wheels till the vib was almost gone then took it to the dealership and told them what I had done and that the bad rim was one of the rears, they figured out which one and looking at it you couldn't tell just bad from the manufacture