x_orange90_x Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 My 2017 Journey GT AWD is in need of ball joints at 108k. I've already replaced inner and outer tie rods, end links, and front struts, and now I really notice the ball joints. Going on uneven road causes it to wander all over, the steering wheel feels sloppy in relation to the actual steering response, I get shaky vibration at 70+mph, creaking when stopping fast or going into/out of driveways that "bump up", and all around unpleasant cruising. I feel like I often NEED two hands on the wheel to continuously correct the course as I'm driving. I see the ball joints are most commonly sold separately, and the control arms often are being sold WITHOUT ball joints in them. In the past I've always replaced the whole arm with pre-installed ball joints because bushings are rubber and rubber wears out. In this case should I track down arms with ball joints already installed and replace the whole thing at once, or should I rent the tools and JUST replace the ball joints? Also, does anyone have any suggestions on some decent, affordable aftermarket parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 (edited) The ball joint base is pressed into the steering knuckle and the stud end goes into the lower control arm....That's the way they were designed from the start of the Journey{and the Avenger/Sebring/ 200}. You won't find such a part as you wish for. Look up the control arm and Ball Joints on rockauto.com, you will see and understand WHY. Edited July 18 by 5rebel9 2late4u and John/Horace 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 1 hour ago, 5rebel9 said: The ball joint base is pressed into the steering knuckle and the stud end goes into the lower control arm....That's the way they were designed from the start of the Journey{and the Avenger/Sebring/ 200}. You won't find such a part as you wish for. Look up the control arm and Ball Joints on rockauto.com, you will see and understand WHY. Ahh I see, that makes sense. They're backwards to the GMs I had, or rather, upside down! Thanks for the reply! So are the control arms I have probably fine, or should I replace them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 Some arms are welded together pieces of metal. Journey is a solid stamped assembly, no welding so they last well. Captured nuts can be an issue seizing on control arm hardware …. a real pain. Unless rubber is crumbling I would not change them. Oem have two yr warranty for $275each on RockA, Moog are $76 for 3 yr warranty, Mevotec are $55 for a 5 yr warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted July 19 Author Report Share Posted July 19 12 hours ago, John/Horace said: Some arms are welded together pieces of metal. Journey is a solid stamped assembly, no welding so they last well. Captured nuts can be an issue seizing on control arm hardware …. a real pain. Unless rubber is crumbling I would not change them. Oem have two yr warranty for $275each on RockA, Moog are $76 for 3 yr warranty, Mevotec are $55 for a 5 yr warranty. Is it a pain to get the ball joints in and out of the knuckle? I've seen there's a mini press tool but others have complained about how it fit. I might be doing this job this weekend now that I know I shouldn't have to spend so much more than I was originally thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 19 Report Share Posted July 19 3 hours ago, x_orange90_x said: Is it a pain to get the ball joints in and out of the knuckle? I've seen there's a mini press tool but others have complained about how it fit. I might be doing this job this weekend now that I know I shouldn't have to spend so much more than I was originally thinking. FIRST you need to watch some you tube videos on how to remove 2017 dodge journey ball joint replacement, then go from there it wont be as easy as you might think but can be done IF you have the ability to do repair work and have the correct tools here is one video from there there are a few more and I would strongly watch as many as there are...REMEMBER a lot of these are from shade tree mechanics and some might not show the best way or correct way don't forget your torque wrenches and safety gear,,,,good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted July 22 Author Report Share Posted July 22 I ordered Carquest Premium ball joints and I'm picking them up this afternoon. Also going to rent the tool. MOOG was literally only $1 more each but they only had one in stock. Everything else I replaced on the suspension was with CQ Premium so no big deal. A lot of people have said they bought CQ in the past and they were actually MOOG parts in the box anyway. Planning to get this done tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted July 22 Report Share Posted July 22 I like the lower ball joints that come with a grease fitting. Which are normally a premium part. A few shots a year and you won’t replace them again. It’s all varying grades of China and Mexico. MOOG stuff after it stopped being US made was often Korean made and was still slightly better than the rest. The offered part warranty can be a crude indicator of quality. Mopar oem stuff is often from China now. But I think they are made to a higher spec and better than no name brown box China stuff. Can’t really gauge quality of rubber and metal alloy used by eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted July 22 Author Report Share Posted July 22 Well I started and abruptly stopped. The press kit from the parts store is way too big for this knuckle. I took the nut off the stud and removed the retaining ring but that was it. I held everything up from the kit and it's simply too bulky for itself and the adapters to fit. I put the nut back on and the retaining ring back and try I'll again another day with a new approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted July 23 Author Report Share Posted July 23 I would be a little more willing to remove the knuckle to make the job easier IF I intended to replace the hub assembly. I don't NEED new ones and I feel like it's just stupid to tear it down that far and not replace them. Really, I think replacing ball joints on this vehicle warrants replacing EVERYTHING on the suspension because you have to disconnect everything anyway IF you remove the knuckle. I really want to give this another go without doing all of the extra work, and I've seen others have successfully done it, so that is what gives me hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted July 24 Author Report Share Posted July 24 Went back at it yesterday. I managed to get the old one removed and the new one half way in. The shallow receiving cup that goes on top does not fit properly inside of the knuckle cavity. It does not go in deep enough, so it actually acts as a stop for the ball joint rather than clearance. I was only able to press it in half way before this happened. I am making something that will have a cutout on the back so it can go in far enough to receive the top of the ball joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 24 Report Share Posted July 24 seems like it would have been easier just to remove it so you could have got it done.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 24 Report Share Posted July 24 seems like it would have been easier just to remove it so you could have got it done..Also I know it would cost extra but at 108 K miles in the rust belt area might have been a great time to replace the wheel bearing hubs as a precaution and for around $100 think i would have done that as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted July 24 Author Report Share Posted July 24 I finally finished the left side! I had to make a new special receiving cup for the top, and also modify the clamp so it would fit into the cavity. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 6 Author Report Share Posted August 6 Got around to doing the right side yesterday. As I thought it would be, everything was much easier on this side. For some reason everything I've replaced on the left side has been seized, super tight, extra difficult, etc. I noticed that while moving the control arm around that flat saucer bushing makes noise. It would be just my luck that after replacing everything else I need to take it back apart to replace those bushings. I may just spray them with a silicone lubricant and call it a day. I STILL need to replace rear struts, tires, engine/trans mounts. Either the previous owner beat the living hell out of this Journey, or they're just not built well. 100k miles and I've replaced all of the front suspension with the exception of bushings and wheel bearings *knocks on wood*. It still rides like a boat getting slammed from underneath, and I'm getting my tires replaced this week which will help a lot, but I don't expect it to be perfect after that either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 6 Report Share Posted August 6 2014, 162 k, on the clock and everything still OEM org on the front end,a lot depends on how to drive and where you drive and how you take care of your vehicle, I did replace the upper rear lateral links since the OEM are non adjustable and went aftermarket with adj ones, never had a problem with our 2011 with them but the 2014 was wearing their tires a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 6 Author Report Share Posted August 6 (edited) 4 hours ago, 2late4u said: 2014, 162 k, on the clock and everything still OEM org on the front end,a lot depends on how to drive and where you drive and how you take care of your vehicle, I did replace the upper rear lateral links since the OEM are non adjustable and went aftermarket with adj ones, never had a problem with our 2011 with them but the 2014 was wearing their tires a lot 😮 You must live in Ohio. I live in Michigan, and this where the car is from originally. How disappointing 😔Our roads suck bad, time to move I guess lol Edited August 6 by x_orange90_x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 6 Report Share Posted August 6 53 minutes ago, x_orange90_x said: 😮 You must live in Ohio. I live in Michigan, and this where the car is from originally. How disappointing 😔Our roads suck bad, time to move I guess lol nope,, in Alabama,,,born and raised in Clarkston Mi, moved south around age 23 raced Woodward Ave every Fri and Sat nite,if we weren't going over to Windsor Ca. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 6 Author Report Share Posted August 6 54 minutes ago, 2late4u said: nope,, in Alabama,,,born and raised in Clarkston Mi, moved south around age 23 raced Woodward Ave every Fri and Sat nite,if we weren't going over to Windsor Ca. Oh so you know the roads here! I live in Mount Clemens and Macomb county has the worst roads. I have an appointment Thursday to get tires and an alignment. I still need to replace the rear struts, so I'll have to try and get that done soon so I don't ruin my new tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 24 Author Report Share Posted August 24 I got new tires put on and WOW what a difference that made. I still have some creaking and I am 99% sure it's those lateral bushings on the control arms. I don't think that's a problem really, more of an annoyance. It drives so much better now. Still need to do the rear struts and an engine/transmission mount, don't know which one though 😒 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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