programming key fob 2018+ keyless enter-n-go

[Itswiggs]

just wanted to throw this out here for anyone wanting to program there own fob. purchased the obdlinkmx+ , a FCA SGW bypass cable and key fob off amazon. plugged the cable to the SGW located in the lower part of the rear driver side door behind the panel. used jscan to pull pin and program fob. jscan has a how to on their website to follow.

 

the dealer most likely will not give you the pin you need and will either tell you to have it done there or like they told me to go to an outside locksmith. ive heard of people using "chrysler pin puller" but it only works for android. i originally purchased the thinkdiag2 obd2 scanner but was put off immediately due to having to purchase a login for $50 through autoauth and then another sub through FCA for $150 just to bypass the SGW even when i was already bypassed. thinkdiag sub also has to be maintained yearly and idk how much that costs but not worth it to me.  i did have to purchase the "vin license" through jscan for $20(you need one for each vehicle you wish to use the app on) but that lasts as long as i have my vehicle, obdlink also has NO yearly sub which is another plus. alfaobd is another good one that cost $50 upfront but its a one time fee and can use on as many vehicles as you wish. so for roughly $200 upfront all in you can program fobs for FCA vehicles. dealer charge almost double that for one. 

[CBD]

I hope you're still around and that you can offer help or suggestions.

 

I have a 2018 Crossroad AWD with the 3.6L engine. I bought the OBDLinkMX+ and alfaOBD for android and have that installed on my phone, Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra. I keep getting an error when I try to get my PIN from the RFH. I bought 2 different bypasses. One off of amazon, though it is a no name brand, Exctool. It's has 2 pig tails on it for the 12-pin and 8- pin plugs with a port on the other end for the OBDLink.  When that didn't work, I bought the ZAutomotive Gateway Bypass Module that alfaOBD has on their web site. I still keep getting errors when I try to read the PIN. If I disconnect then reconnect and quickly go back to the read pin page, I get 2 pins, neither of which work. One come up, then quickly changes to the other. 

 

I'm at my wits end and feel like I'm just throwing money at it in hopes that it works. By the time I'm done, might as well have just paid the dealer, or so it feels. Does Jscan work better than alfaOBD?

 

Anything you can come up with would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance

[diymirage]

AlfaOBD rocks, what is the error code you are getting, and what steps are you taking ? 

 

(I've successfully used the generic 12+8 on my journey)

 

Post a screenshots of the error 

Edited October 15, 2024 by diymirage

[CBD]

Thank you for responding. I attach the OBDLinkMX+, open AlfaOBD. Under Select Car Model I choose Dodge Journey (JC). Under Select Function I choose Radio Frequency Hub (RFH). From Select Control Unit I choose Radio Frequency HUB MY2011+ PowerNet. Then I connect. That all works fine. I then hit the "Hood Up" button, select Read PIN under Select Procedure to Start and I get the  Failed messages in the images below.

 

First I tried the generic 12+8 bypass and that didn't work. Then I ordered the bypass module from ZAutomotive, as linked on AlfaOBD's home page. I tried that today and got the same messages.

 

If I leave the Read PIN page up, hit the "Key" button at the bottom of AlfaOBD to go back to the connect page, disconnect then immediately reconnect and while it's reconnecting hit the "Hood Up" button, I get 2 PINs. First it shows a PIN that is 4 numbers, then it quickly changes to a PIN that has 2 numbers, a letter, then another number. If I try those PINs to program a key fob I get similar Failed messages.

 

Any ideas?

[diymirage]

man, that is very strange, i tried to read mine out, following your post step by step and it shows mine just fine 

 

i wonder if there is a setting that locks you out that might be turned on? 

 

i have a similar issue with my wifes grocery getter ('15 pursuit charger) i always figured its a safety feature on that one since it was build as police car

[CBD]

Thanks for trying that. I really have no clue why this is happening. I bought the car used from a used car dealership, so not much on the history. The SGW was not secured properly. It only had one screw holding mounting bracket in place, so I wonder if it was replaced at some point and not synced to the car correctly. Or maybe the RFH was replaced and that's why I get the 2 different PINs. Or some other module that I'm not even thinking of. I do have a loose purple plug in there that I have no clue what it goes to. I don't remember how may pins it is. 

 

Hopefully, I can get it sorted soon. My goal was to program the new fobs and activate the remote start function. This is just my luck though. I buy the car that can't be modified.

 

Thanks again for your help.

[diymirage]

what do your fobs look like ?

 

if they are the kind that still "plug" in i betcha you have the circuits in the fob for remote start, but if it has a push button, you may be out of luck 

 

 

[CBD]

Nope. It's a push button with passive entry. From what I've seen online, if you can get the PIN from the RFH, you can program new fobs with the remote start.

 

The funny thing is, I can go into the Body Computer and activate the remote start, enable to hood ajar sensor, I just can't program a key fob to see if it works. I can even reset the ECU. Under RFH, I can locate learned keys. I just can't get a PIN to work. And I have 2 of them.

 

I reach out to AlfaOBD directly. They had me send them a screenshot of the RFH Read System Status. They said "Please send me the output of the Read System ID feature for the RFH, I need the ECU Variant ID and ECU Version ID to check the Read PIN function." Hopefully, they can figure something out.

[diymirage]

strange, keep us posted, i would love to hear what they say 

 

[jdd]

hello everyone i have a 2014 journey and i done a engine swap and i cant get it to start. it turns over hard also. sounds like the battery is weak but its not. do i have to program the vin number from the journey i got this motor from in order for it to start? please help. im about to give up. thanks 

[John/Horace]

Fuel, spark, compression and timing are the main critical items. Have you scanned for codes with the replacement engine.? VIN shouldn’t really matter for starting, it is the fob remotes that have the security features. A flashing yellow symbol can prevent starting. Bad CPS sensor as well.

 

 

[jdd]

would a bad battery sensor cause a no spark?

[John/Horace]

I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t. Would Set a code and a light on dash, battery warnings. I’m assuming it the 3.6 not 2.4, you haven’t said which. Car will run with battery sensor unplugged, it sends current reading to ecm helps control alt.
 

No spark is usually CPS sensor. The old engine is worn out from use, it didn’t just stop starting?
You have all wire harness plugs properly seated. No open plugs not used. Easy to have a bad pin on a plug, check each individual plug with a multi meter. If turning over slow, clean up main grounds, boost with a second battery if needed.

[jdd]

its a 2.4. on the cam sensors on top of the motor one of them only has one wire going to it but the other one has 2. should there be 2 wires going in that back sensor? i changed the crank sensor on the back of the motor on the bottom but im talking about the cam sensor on top of the motor. the battery sensor was broke and throwing a code for that. autozone wanted 214 dollars for one. what the heck does it have gold in it? i bought one from amazon for 30. i checked the voltage on all the sensors and getting 5 volts. and 12 when i crank it over now. before i wasent getting 12 just 5. checked the volts in the plugs and i get 70 just sitting there but when i crank it i will get 12 and 13  just for a second when i crank it but it goes away pretty quick.i checked all fuses under hood and they all are good. i also took plugs out and poured a little gas down them and tried starting it and it wouldn't even fart. im about to roll it out and catch it fire and maybe even blow it up. so where ever you guys live listen for a loud boom. thanks for your help and if you have anymore suggestions please let me know. p.s. i have a ancel DS600 programmable scanner i paid a lot for it. it will code pcm swap also and key fobs . thanks again for your advise 

[jdd]

no old engine locked up from my daughter and her husband not checking the oil. i could kick their butts

[John/Horace]

Get a spark tester on a plug, even a second one in case coil issue. Make sure there is spark. If cam sensor plug only has one wire by design, I wouldn't worry about. But most sensors running on 5 volts like you have measured.

 

What year is the 2.4 donor engine. Journey is 2009-2018 yrs. 5rebel9 on this site mentioned older 2.4 version of this engine having a different crank sensor set up, something about the reluctor ring location. Search it out or ask him. Donor needs to be very close in age to the 2014 orig engine to be compatible.

 

If there is spark there and manual fuel added not firing. Move on to compression then timing.

Pic of cheapo spark tester. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jdd]

doner motor is out of a 2010 avenger

[jdd]

when i got it i asked what happend toit and all they said was they lost the key and nothing else would work so they just part it out

[5rebel9]

WHY did you jump to posting here and not on your original thread? This makes things very confusing for members to follow and offer advice.

NOW your most recent info has me looking for more background info as to just what you have done{they lost the "key" and parked it}How did you go aboout being able to "crank" the starter?

Is the "red dot" ANTI THEFT warning light illuminated when you push the start button to accessory position? I'm beginning to suspect that ANTI THEFT mode has been activatedfrom past history of blown motor and "sitting" for some extended time.

Edited Tuesday at 06:00 PM by 5rebel9

[jdd]

im sorry i dont really know much about computers but i have a 2014 journey that my daughter and her husband didn't check oil in and it locked up. he found a 2010 avenger that they lost the keys and was just parting out so i put that motor in the 14 journey. both are 2.4 and it did have the anti theft but i reprogrammed it in. . i cant get the motor tohit a lick.. i changed crank sensor and 1 cam sensor and still nothing. im stumped

[jdd]

i need to recheck the codes and i will let you all know what they are

[jdd]

here are all the codes its throwing now. po113,po335,b2193-00,uo100-00,b1c19,b1c13,b1408-13,b210a-16,b210d-16. 

[jdd]

red dot to theanti theft is not on

[John/Horace]

Lots of battery sensor related codes, airbag etc but the cps code might be real issue.  Did you use a factory sensor or aftermarket when you changed it?

 

CPS sensor does have a relearn procedure, try that first with the sensor that's installed now.  Could also remove sensor off old engine which is probably OEM and see if that one is compatible.

 

A pin out diagram gives a list of what each input should be. Signal from cps ends up there, could be wire harness damage and reduced voltage signal to ecm is an issue. There is a pin out diagram on this site. Lots of elect plugs worked on during engine swap, bad plug or poorly seated plug can cause a lot of trouble shooting grief.

Edited Wednesday at 03:22 PM by John/Horace

[5rebel9]

48 minutes ago, John/Horace said:

Lots of battery sensor related codes, airbag etc but the cps code might be real issue.  Did you use a factory sensor or aftermarket when you changed it?

 

CPS sensor does have a relearn procedure, try that first with the sensor that's installed now.  Could also remove sensor off old engine which is probably OEM and see if that one is compatible.

 

A pin out diagram gives a list of what each input should be. Signal from cps ends up there, could be wire harness damage and reduced voltage signal to ecm is an issue. There is a pin out diagram on this site. Lots of elect plugs worked on during engine swap, bad plug or poorly seated plug can cause a lot of trouble shooting grief.

Can't say it any better. I still question just what is meant by "they parted it out", did they sell off certain pieces like TIPM or ECM??? For best responses, FULL doings need to be stated so not to frustrate poster or members 

Might also want to go back to basics and clean battery cable connections and grounds on strut tower.