Jmoseley336 Posted August 15 Report Share Posted August 15 As the title States I have a intermittent po394 code that randomly shows up, sometimes I can drive for a day or two without it coming on. Timing is perfect, already tightened the bolts behind the VVT solenoids etc. Where should I look now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 2016 DJ service CD. Excuse the all caps text. That is how it copied over from a picture. Code set conditions - At least five seconds or 2.5 engine revolutions have elapsed with Crankshaft Position Sensor signals present, but no camshaft position sensor signal. Possible causes - 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 2 TONE WHEEL LOOSE OR DAMAGED POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 (edited) Milage on vehicle, any recent work done on it. AWD or two wheel drive vehicle? Parked in a garage or outside with the rodents ? Edited August 17 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoseley336 Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 18 hours ago, Dean H said: 2016 DJ service CD. Excuse the all caps text. That is how it copied over from a picture. Code set conditions - At least five seconds or 2.5 engine revolutions have elapsed with Crankshaft Position Sensor signals present, but no camshaft position sensor signal. Possible causes - 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 2 TONE WHEEL LOOSE OR DAMAGED POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) Yeah I'm aware of the procedure, but thank you though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoseley336 Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 9 minutes ago, John/Horace said: Milage on vehicle, any recent work done on it. AWD or two wheel drive vehicle? Parked in a garage or outside with the rodents ? About 187,575 and only thing done recently is timing chain, oil pump and oil cooler. It's parked outside but the wiring still looks good as far as I can see, the code comes on very randomly. Sometimes I can drive hours with no code and sometimes it comes on it under 30 minutes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 Sensor for bank 1 and 2 are the same. YES have to pull the upper intake off to R&R them. rockauto price is relatively inexpensive, and at that mileage would not be a bad idea to replace both. Like any high mileage sensor that gets hit with oil all the time, a small crack can happen that lets oil get inside and "knock out" sensor reading. I had this happen with the crank sensor on my '13 3.6 AWD.....not so easy to replace as the CMP sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoseley336 Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 1 minute ago, 5rebel9 said: Sensor for bank 1 and 2 are the same. YES have to pull the upper intake off to R&R them. rockauto price is relatively inexpensive, and at that mileage would not be a bad idea to replace both. Like any high mileage sensor that gets hit with oil all the time, a small crack can happen that lets oil get inside and "knock out" sensor reading. I had this happen with the crank sensor on my '13 3.6 AWD.....not so easy to replace as the CMP sensors. I've already changed both cam sensors on each bank with known verified good ones from my 13 Chrysler 300 3.6 and still getting the same thing, but I have not changed the crankshaft position sensor because no codes for it, I only have one code and it's the p0394, what code were you getting that caused you to change the crankshaft position sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoseley336 Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 Just now, Jmoseley336 said: I've already changed both cam sensors on each bank with known verified good ones from my 13 Chrysler 300 3.6 and still getting the same thing, but I have not changed the crankshaft position sensor because no codes for it, I only have one code and it's the p0394, what code were you getting that caused you to change the crankshaft position sensor? Also changed vvt solenoids with no change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Jmoseley336 said: Also changed vvt solenoids with no change Why not try giving full info as to what has been done to prevent already done that responses. I had intermittent engine shut downs and jerking and FINALLY threw code P0339 for crank sensor. On inspection of removed sensor, the electrical plug end was full of oil. I posted of this SOMEWHERE on the forum some time ago. If you say so much plug and play has been done, then it comes down to "shooting" wire readings between sensor and ECM. Service manual/wire schematics for your year are posted here on the forum for folks to look up to help diagnose your problem. EDIT : I think you are mistaking the ones on the passenger side for the 2{1 on each Valve cover} on the drivers side{trannie side} Edited August 17 by 5rebel9 larryl and John/Horace 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoseley336 Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 14 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said: Why not try giving full info as to what has been done to prevent already done that responses. I had intermittent engine shut downs and jerking and FINALLY threw code P0339 for crank sensor. On inspection of removed sensor, the electrical plug end was full of oil. I posted of this SOMEWHERE on the forum some time ago. If you say so much plug and play has been done, then it comes down to "shooting" wire readings between sensor and ECM. Service manual/wire schematics for your year are posted here on the forum for folks to look up to help diagnose your problem. EDIT : I think you are mistaking the ones on the passenger side for the 2{1 on each Valve cover} on the drivers side{trannie side} You're right, that was my mistake. And I don't just say, they have in fact been changed with known good ones. And I changed out both camshaft sensors just to be safe on bank 1 and bank 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 (edited) A bit of work to do, but if you did change those 2 sensors with used ones. Try swapping location and see if code changes{ for bank position}, then you will know if indeed it is the sensor and not further involved. Edited August 17 by 5rebel9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luzmina Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 (edited) Have you try resetting the PCM connectors? take one by one out, clean them with an "electrical contact cleaner spray" and put hem back. Do not forget to disconnect the battery before doing it. Edited August 17 by luzmina larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaveManJedi Posted September 4 Report Share Posted September 4 On 8/15/2024 at 2:13 PM, Jmoseley336 said: As the title States I have a intermittent po394 code that randomly shows up, sometimes I can drive for a day or two without it coming on. Timing is perfect, already tightened the bolts behind the VVT solenoids etc. Where should I look now? Reset pcm and tcm. Just make sure you pull every fuse that's labeled pcm or tcm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoseley336 Posted September 5 Author Report Share Posted September 5 On 8/17/2024 at 11:50 AM, luzmina said: Have you try resetting the PCM connectors? take one by one out, clean them with an "electrical contact cleaner spray" and put hem back. Do not forget to disconnect the battery before doing it. Yes I have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 5 Report Share Posted September 5 Sounds very frustrating. Maybe a wire harness issue. Need a ecm pin out diagram and find what 5 volt signal could be dropping to 3 by the time it gets to sensor…or vice versa. Jmoseley336 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoseley336 Posted September 10 Author Report Share Posted September 10 So far; I've did oil galley bolts, triple quadruple checked that timing is perfect, all components are less than a month old so I know all is well there including oil pump, switched Camshaft, cam phaser and oil control valve with all known good parts. I'm truly at lost, I've never fought a vehicle this long. I did notice once it goes into limp mode Intake Cam 2/ Crank difference gets stuck at 42.0, a simple reset of the car and it's back to reading normal/drive absolutely perfect until the code is set and limp mode happens again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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