Daniel Anderson Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 Can this be done without hoist and only jack-stands? What would be the procedure step by step ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 (edited) As Steve Irwin would say CRICKEY! From the look of your posted picture, it looks like you need a complete rack and pinion assembly, as it looks like the bushing for the rack rod is also completely worn out also. BUT yes an inner tie rod can be changed with vehicle on jackstands, although not fun laying on your back or squatting down WITHY special inner tie rod tool. Many you tube videos for changing them can be found with a google search. And member 2late4u just "beat me to the punch"! Edited August 27 by 5rebel9 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 (edited) Yes that picture he posted didn't quit look like the end of the inner tie rod so he may have more problems that we don't see..................well only thanks to Covid and the Flu b virus ( also have all the shots for both virus as my wife has an immunity problem )Fri night started feeling bad went to ER sat morning and then sleeping for an hour then coughing then going back to sleep and then waking up again every hour for the last 2 days and nights,, ended back up at my Fr Monday morning my throat felt like a raw piece of meat, he prescribed some steroids treatment as I could hardly even swallow a small amount of water at the time, feeling better as of now BUT he said probally be a week before I get to be feeling better...the Dr did say that this Covid virus that the sore throat was a big issue for it Edited August 27 by 2late4u 5rebel9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 @2late4u....Hang in there and get better SOON! My 5 times surgery back is SCREAMING from my car maint./repairs AND "honey do" list of summer house projects the wife wants done. And I still have 16 face cord of firewood to get done and stacked in our basement for winter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 28 Report Share Posted August 28 20 hours ago, 5rebel9 said: @2late4u....Hang in there and get better SOON! My 5 times surgery back is SCREAMING from my car maint./repairs AND "honey do" list of summer house projects the wife wants done. And I still have 16 face cord of firewood to get done and stacked in our basement for winter! whew I just got tied reading about all the work you got lined up,,well the wife just got diagnosed with COVID today as well oh well at least get it over quicker this way,caught her infection early so for her is going a lot better that mine did but I am already on the mind just cant stay still Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Anderson Posted September 1 Author Report Share Posted September 1 Well I received my parts the other day. So I started on it Friday night for a few hours. The rim came of easily as I earlier replaced OEM lug nuts ( with those crappy covers). The tie-rod end easily came off as well. The boot took some force to pull them off, the clamp end to the steering rack was most difficult as I did not have the proper tool (someone have a part no. for one please) proceeded onwards, there was no steering fluid leaks. The cover was made of rubber (new, Mopar plastic, a disappointment) the Ultra Pro tool made removal of steering inner tie-rod tool (two nine/16" nuts on the end of a U shaped bracket with an inverted T and a square notch for a 3/8" extension) a breeze. The jam nut on the tie rod proved the most difficult to remove and a new one was not included in replacement. A special tool to torque this nut to 60 ft/lbs has not been sourced yet, (any ideas) replacement went well. When I went to passenger side the boot was wrapped around the inner tie-rod several times and torn apart, so replacement is in order. I suspect whomever installed new tires and did steering wheel alignment never bothered to remove inner tie rod boots beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Anderson Posted September 2 Author Report Share Posted September 2 I have been looking at a inner tie rod and boot removal and install. The mechanic mentioned pinning a castle nut. I am not seeing that on my model and the part on Mopar.ca has the threads covered over to top of part. So how am I to know. Is loctite a good idea or should I replace with the one left from the store. Price is $ 93 dollars Can. funds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 2 Report Share Posted September 2 Purpose of the boot is to keep dirt and road crap from going into the inner tie rod joint. Needs to move freely and pivot. Doesn’t need to look nice, it’s there for sealing purposes. I have even seen them held with gear clamps and tywraps at times. Could get a good used one from an auto wrecking yard. Large pipe wrenchs can be used on lock nut; need to wire brush the threads to remove most of rust and use penetrating oil first so nut has room to back off from tie rod end shoulder. A crow foot wrench can also be used on one end after things are broken loose, but they don’t grab as well as a pipe wrench to free things up. If nut gets too ratty, swap it out during the joint replacement. Lock tight not normally used on this job; lots of torque and rust locks things together any way. Need to use a tape measure to try and keep length of assembled inner and outer tie rods as close as possible to what they are now. An alignment most likely needed afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Anderson Posted Saturday at 04:51 AM Author Report Share Posted Saturday at 04:51 AM (edited) I wanted to add to this post: my steering wheel was a little CCW from center. I decided to remove tires and adjust both tie rods. On the left: " out"; on the right: "in"; both were one turn. Upon driving there was a significant movement of the wheel CCW to drive straight. So if your steering is close to center, leave it alone. My hands were in seven and two-three O' clock position on the wheel after adjustment. Probably figure an hour to change again. Edited Saturday at 04:55 AM by Daniel Anderson grammar marks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted Saturday at 01:17 PM Report Share Posted Saturday at 01:17 PM Why not take it for an alignment?? 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Anderson Posted Sunday at 12:57 AM Author Report Share Posted Sunday at 12:57 AM (edited) Dear Sir: At the moment my steering wheel is now asymmetrical however my lower ball joints rubber is deteriorated to the point of seperation. Mopar parts will not be in till November and they have no grease nipples fitted(and I am not drilling or tapping the new ones). Presently the price for one premium ball-joint is $ 180. The others I don't even want to try eg $ 35 Mevotech, NAPA $ 127. My inner tie-rod (Mopar) came from Cheslovakia. Not interested in junk metal. My Journey is 15 years old and rubber parts are needing attention to replacement before I do an alignment. Edited Sunday at 12:59 AM by Daniel Anderson Adding to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted Sunday at 12:57 PM Report Share Posted Sunday at 12:57 PM Dear Sir Moog make compatible ball joints for these vehicles with grease zerks installed no drilling tapping req'd Have a nice day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted Sunday at 03:06 PM Report Share Posted Sunday at 03:06 PM 14 hours ago, Daniel Anderson said: Dear Sir: At the moment my steering wheel is now asymmetrical however my lower ball joints rubber is deteriorated to the point of seperation. Mopar parts will not be in till November and they have no grease nipples fitted(and I am not drilling or tapping the new ones). Presently the price for one premium ball-joint is $ 180. The others I don't even want to try eg $ 35 Mevotech, NAPA $ 127. My inner tie-rod (Mopar) came from Cheslovakia. Not interested in junk metal. My Journey is 15 years old and rubber parts are needing attention to replacement before I do an alignment. FYI on the parts not available, I have been waiting on a abs module for over a 1.5 yr but actually the dealership told me that the part is finally at the part depot in atlanta but is still loaded on a truck and is schedule to be unloaded on the 24 of this month.and this was 2 weeks ago he said this to me..WTF, he just looked at me and said I know I don't know what their problem is for NOT unloading their trucks but don't worry your name is on that part and that he would contact me when they get it...I am NOT holding my breath on getting it when he is saying something doesn't sound right..oh well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Anderson Posted 16 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 16 hours ago That is true. My surname was printed on sticker attached to bag with some UPC code below that. It was a yellow rectangular sticker with black letters and vertical black bars (assorted widths) below that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.