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Intake Manifold Runner Control Actuator


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20 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

I don't go for changing control modules for engine performance, so I can't offer you any advice to you on that. BUT I do know {as was previously posted} that those equipped with manifold vanes{IMRC} were VERY TROUBLESOME. 

 

Is your DJ "up and running" or are you actually having a drivability issue?

 

I think it is time to "climb out of the rabbit hole" of the IMRC system yours does not have.

Yes, it runs. Awful gas mileage (12 mpg) and sluggish though. It has some hesitation on the interstate, especially going up hills. I'm changing my intake tube to an aluminum one and adding a crank filter instead of the free air line. I'm gonna check my pcv and other senors also. I'll find the issue. 

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How many miles on the car? 

What driving conditions, city or open road?

Poor fuel mileage trans fluid/filer changed?

Could also be suspect of plugging up cat converter.

As I originally said...it sounds like you have other problems, not IMRC

Edit : for us with older DJ's.... which trans is in your '19 the 4 or 6 sp?

Edited by 5rebel9
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It’s not just a simple reflashing to accept a sensor input. The ecm would likely need a bunch of programming put back in to control the runners. After intake runners were deleted they likely came up with new programming to run the engine. I have driven a 2.4 journey more than a few times;  it’s waaay different than the 3.6 in the power department.

But in the last year of production it was the only engine available.
 

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14 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

How many miles on the car? 

What driving conditions, city or open road?

Poor fuel mileage trans fluid/filer changed?

Could also be suspect of plugging up cat converter.

As I originally said...it sounds like you have other problems, not IMRC

Edit : for us with older DJ's.... which trans is in your '19 the 4 or 6 sp?

So I changed the pcv valve, and installed the crank filter. Don't know how much it's accomplished gas mileage yet, I'll give it a day to get a good read. Sluggishness wise, it still slugs. Lol. I haven't replaced the short ram pipe yet. But when I do I'm gonna redirect downward more and install a heat shield completely around the filter except at the bottom so the air will be coming from under the car. I'm reading pretty high temp on my intake air temp. It got up to 100° today. And I was reading mid to upper 90's iat. Even on the interstate. Hopefully I'll get better temps after I change it up. But what I have further found out is that it's a CARB emissions vehicle, not a federal. I'm 40, and everything I've ever heard about California emission regulations on vehicles make them run like shit. I've done a little research and it's half and half. Half say this, half say that. I'm sure emission stuff like sequential fuel Injection and a heated o2 sensor aren't the problem, but could the three way catalytic converter and exhaust be the issue. And are there other emission stuff that could effect performance. Ive lived in memphis my whole life and have never had a CARB emission vehicle before. 

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Please answer my questions posted, it will help us get a better "feel" as to what is going on. CITY driving with A/c on will kill MPG

High mileage would denote need for trans service and spark plugs, BOTH essential for decent mpg and performance.

 

Keep an "eye" on oil level, these 2.4's do use some oil and with the short ram with breather line hooked up into the main intake air will suck more oil from the mist in the Valve Cover. 

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Update:

Just learned that if dtc pops up and you clear it the system will not test that dyc again until you fix the issue, unless it's way out of the normal numbers. So I checked my freeze frame and there was a previous code stored in the system. Had a bad exhaust side variable valve solenoid. Replaced that. I changed my IAT sensor collar. I literally cut the original collar off of the original intake box it was connected to cause it had a bell housing around the inlet side. Did some sanding and shaping and it fits perfect. Then I read that I need to reset pcm and tcm. Alot of people said disconnect both battery terminals for at least 5 min and touch them together to clear out stored power. That was wrong. I actually had to pull 4 fuses, then get in the car amd buckle up, press my start button to acc and wait til the dings stop, then with my foot on the brake push and hold down the start button for like 7 to 10 sec until your dash chimes. Some dodge models you have to continue to hold for a second chime. Mine didn't do the second one. After the chime, turn the car off, replace the fuses and take your car out for a proper drive cycle and wa la, I'm now getting 375 miles per tank, my throttle is responding  much better. And you can actually hear a difference in the air intake. All my numbers look perfect and everything read ok on my i/m readiness. 

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