x_orange90_x Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 I bought my 2017 Journey AWD in March or April of 2023 and it had brand new pads and rotors when I got it. After about 6 months it started vibrating and shaking while braking. I went and had the rotors turned back in the spring of this year and it stopped like a dream after that. Now, only 10-15k miles later in getting vibration again and shaking from them. I had someone cut me completely off in traffic and I had to stop HARD to avoid an accident. Immediately after they are shaking way worse, especially the left. When I had then turned back in the spring I found that 3 out of the 4 slide pins in the front were completely seized! I removed them, cleaned, sanded and buffed them, then reinstalled with new grease and new boots. Surely this was why they warped in the first place. So now, before this mornings hard braking, I'm left wondering WHY are they shaking again?! And post hard-stop they are definitely much worse. Replacements are stupid expensive in my opinion, about 120 for the cheapest car parts store brand, and the the sketchy Amazon kits are definitely too good to be true (Detroit Axle, A-Premium) at the same price as ONE store brand rotor. Why are my front brakes so bad? I don't even have the early model undersized setup. Should I be replacing my calipers along with the brakes next time? I am so frustrated at this stupid car lately that it makes me hate it. Turn the rotors in spring, replace tie rods, ball joints, end links, and tires in summer, then need to do the damn rotors again?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 YES you will need new rotors again AND do the following. The pads do fit snug BUT they need to be able to move on the shims File clean the pad slide areas of the caliper mounting brackets. THEN check and clean the same for the REAR calipers for pins and pad slide areas just as the fronts. Rear brakes are just as involved for proper braking forces as the fronts, "stuck up" rears put ALL braking force on the fronts to do the work . With 2 "big brake" and a small brake DJ's to care for....been there done that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 (edited) 54 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said: YES you will need new rotors again AND do the following. The pads do fit snug BUT they need to be able to move on the shims File clean the pad slide areas of the caliper mounting brackets. THEN check and clean the same for the REAR calipers for pins and pad slide areas just as the fronts. Rear brakes are just as involved for proper braking forces as the fronts, "stuck up" rears put ALL braking force on the fronts to do the work . With 2 "big brake" and a small brake DJ's to care for....been there done that! Thanks for the reply! I haven't touched the rears, and they were likewise new when I got the car. But I'm thinking the pins are probably in the same shape as the front WERE before, possibly stuck. It does nosedive when braking but I previously attributed that to bad struts in the front, but I also replaced those in the spring this year as well. It kinda does feel like most of the stopping power is going to the front. So if the rats aren't properly working then that's why the fronts keep having issues? Edited August 27 by x_orange90_x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 2 minutes ago, x_orange90_x said: Thanks for the reply! I haven't touched the rears, and they were likewise new when I got the car. But I'm thinking the pins are probably in the same shape as the front WERE before, possibly stuck. It does nosedive when braking but I previously attributed that to bad struts in the front, but I also replaced those in the spring this year as well. It kinda does feel like most of the stopping power is going to the front. So if the rats aren't properly working then that's why the fronts keep having issues? YES, if rears are stuck the fronts have to do all the work and will overheat. Also check for excessive heat at wheels after a drive, you MAY also have brake hose on front end collapsing and not allowing fluid back out of the calipers after braking. A fairly common issue with the DJ's larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 Do your emergency brakes work? That would be another indication of rear calipers being seized you do need them to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 10 minutes ago, larryl said: Do your emergency brakes work? That would be another indication of rear calipers being seized you do need them to work Stupid question, but how do I engage the E brake? I do not have a lever anywhere that I've found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 1 hour ago, x_orange90_x said: Stupid question, but how do I engage the E brake? I do not have a lever anywhere that I've found. Nevermind, I watched a YouTube video. So how do I "test" them? Apply them and try push the car? Apply them and lightly press the gas pedal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 you apply the emg brake and then put the journey in forward and see if the journey moves if not apply a bit of gas to see how much resistance of the rear brakes you have you should noticed almost immediately`...ALSO quit TURNING your rotors they are not like old time rotors that had plenty on meat of the...I only use Amazon for these products and never had any problem as well akebono pads make three OEM pads for dodge as did as the last time I checked......do all 4 corners this nextime with all new parts and clean and lube all the slide pins and wire brush your caliper brackets and use the new clips and you should never have to change your pads for another 70-100k unless you live where there is a lot of ice and salt and then just a quick cleaning and inspection of slide pins would be a great tuneup Akebono ACT1596 Proact Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad kit Fits 2014 Dodge Journey 4.9 out of 5 stars 12 $60.57$60.57 Akebono ACT1589 Proact Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad kit , GREY Fits 2014 Dodge Journey 3.8 out of 5 stars 29 $71.72$71.72 List: $95.99$95.99 Raybestos 780964R Professional Grade Disc Brake Rotor Visit the Raybestos Store 4.9 4.9 out of 5 stars 16 ratings | Search this page Raybestos 780965R Professional Grade Disc Brake Rotor Visit the Raybestos Store 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 29 ratings | Search this page $37.98 with 27 percent savings-27% $37.98 $45.78 with 15 percent savings-15% $45.78 larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 (edited) No e-brake on Journeys, old school cable actuation of the caliper and a mechanical spring return mechanism. No separate brake shoes. Calipers are forced to close pads and grab the rotor. An older common design that can act up and not work well. Tendency if not always used …is to seize up. I had to change ours already. One new one had to have a larger spring installed by me. Kept dragging. Daily use now to prevent more seizing. Daughter in laws 2012 has started seizing recently…was able to temporarily free driver side mechanism. If you start playing with parking brake you need to have a small hammer to force mechanism to completely release afterwards. Testing with weight of car is best method, although spinning wheel also works. Turning modern rotors is not worth the time and money, not enough extra material there. Heat treated coated rotors are the best. I just use mid price and change more often. Edited August 27 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 I applied the e brake and put it in gear, have it a little gas and could feel the resistance. So they ARE working. I released it and the resistance was gone. I can't say I've felt that kind of resistance from the rear though, almost as if to say I never feel the rear actually "stopping". Are there adjustments that can be made, or does this test really not test the normal movement of the assembly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 1 hour ago, x_orange90_x said: I applied the e brake and put it in gear, have it a little gas and could feel the resistance. So they ARE working. I released it and the resistance was gone. I can't say I've felt that kind of resistance from the rear though, almost as if to say I never feel the rear actually "stopping". Are there adjustments that can be made, or does this test really not test the normal movement of the assembly? if you feel resistance and then released it then felt okay then your parking brake are working okay,,,just wondering have they changed the parking brake mine is just a pedal on the left side of the drivers fender wall? push it once to apply the parking brake then push it again to release the brake,,is that how yours is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x_orange90_x Posted August 27 Author Report Share Posted August 27 33 minutes ago, 2late4u said: if you feel resistance and then released it then felt okay then your parking brake are working okay,,,just wondering have they changed the parking brake mine is just a pedal on the left side of the drivers fender wall? push it once to apply the parking brake then push it again to release the brake,,is that how yours is? That is exactly what mine is, and the reason why I didn't know what it was! Every other car I've owned was a pull up lever between the front seats, including my 2014 Cruze. So this was strange to me. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted August 27 Report Share Posted August 27 (edited) Parking brake is a MECHANICAL ACTION to move the caliper pistons against the rotor. This does NOT mean that HYDRAULICALLY the calipers and slide actions are in good order, Do as I posted earlier. Edited August 27 by 5rebel9 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 28 Report Share Posted August 28 (edited) 9 hours ago, 5rebel9 said: Parking brake is a MECHANICAL ACTION to move the caliper pistons against the rotor. This does NOT mean that HYDRAULICALLY the calipers and slide actions are in good order, Do as I posted earlier. I don't believe he is listing that he needs to rework his brake job and checking all the trouble spots like the caliper pins and rust jacking under the Brake hose clamps,,I gave him the heads up on all new pads and rotors that I have used with no problems, I don't believe in buying kits that they sell everything together Edited August 28 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donna Parker Posted October 25 Report Share Posted October 25 Yes. And the brake rotor kit like Detroit Axle or A-Premium is over than $217. I don't want to spend much money. The cheapest price for my 2012 Dodge Journey is Hexautoparts Brakes Rotors, not a big brand name but very nice and quality of items is far superior to what I’ve gotten from the big, boxed auto part chain stores. I can feel the catch when braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 25 Report Share Posted October 25 9 hours ago, Donna Parker said: Yes. And the brake rotor kit like Detroit Axle or A-Premium is over than $217. I don't want to spend much money. The cheapest price for my 2012 Dodge Journey is Hexautoparts Brakes Rotors, not a big brand name but very nice and quality of items is far superior to what I’ve gotten from the big, boxed auto part chain stores. I can feel the catch when braking. Well you will get what you pay for when buying cheap brake parts.....BUYING quality parts for all four wheels ( 4 rotors and 2 sets of pads) WILL run over $200 even if you are doing it yourself larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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