rookieBeeitch Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 Recently, my door ajar sensor for the back hatch of my 2014 Dodge Journey either became disconnected or is no longer working, I am unable to use my automatic starter with the vehicle thinking that there is a door open. I am struggling to find a replacement sensor I’m not sure what it’s called. Does anybody know how to search for the part that needs replaced? What is the proper name for the sensor? Is there a fuse I can check first? If anybody has any pointers on getting this fixed, I would appreciate it. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 Welcome to the forum! Best to start by inspecting the wires inside the rubber sleeve between the rear hatch and body of the car. Known weak spot for wires to break inside due to flexing from years of use. There are you tube videos and even posted here on the forum of such problems and hoe to fix them. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 (edited) what he said and also the dealership part shop would be able to provide you with the name of said part and a price for it as well, then you can check for an aftermarket parts if the dealerships price is to high for you......also is your dome light or any lights coming on inside the journey as if its that sensor going bad there should be?????????? Edited September 12 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 2012 Drivers door jamb ajar switch Rate this topic found this under the forums section Electrical, Battery & Charging check it out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, By TD Charlie February 18, 2021 in Electrical, Battery & Charging Charlie Journey Member 21 Region:U.S. Northeast Journey's Year: 2012 Posted February 18, 2021 2012 SXT 162k. Car wouldn't start today at the worst possible time, naturally. I put a 200a charger on it and it fired up right away. Let it run 5 minutes, shut it off, and started right back up. The battery and alternator were replaced 7 months/12k miles ago. I noticed in the dash that the drivers door ajar light was flashing erratically, even with the door closed. I normally set the dome lights permanently off, but recently switched it on when doors open. I think the door ajar switch/sensor is quitting on me and this caused a parasitic drain over the course of a couple nights. So i set the dome lights to stay off for now while I figure this one out. I'm not entirely sure if that will prevent the drain either. My thoughts are to either pull a fuse or replace the drivers door ajar switch. I will have to look through a fuse diagram to see if that's even feasible, and I'm doubting it is. The door ajar sensors are $5 pieces of plastic but I don't know where they are located yet. More to come. Thread opened for suggestions and documentation purposes =] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 2 Author Posted February 19, 2021 On 2/19/2021 at 8:18 AM, John/Horace said: You might be better off with a door harness assembly if the wires are super brittle,. Breaks can be repaired with solder and heat shrink but it gets time consuming. There are articles that say the newer wires on pretty much all cars are made of some environmentally friendly soy or organic based plastic coating now. Critters like to chew on them more than in the past; although not related to your problem. Frustrating and awkward to work on problem. I battled something similar on the first year of Grand Cherokee Jeep’s; when the truck had 200k miles on it. Local wrecker had a loose damaged door lying around and I was able to buy just harness and learn how everything came apart without breaking stuff. Upull section of car wreckers can be good for that sometimes. But in the summer weather. Expand I wouldn't mind sitting there and reconnecting all 30 wires or whatever they jammed into the harness, but there is absolutely ZERO slack/play, and I'm not adding wire in between cuts. No thanks. The good news is that I've tracked down the issue. My car has been sitting a good 24 hours, with my dome light wheel clicked all the way off and the door still "open" - and this did NOT drain the battery. Car started without issue and it's 20* right now. I blasted some WD40 into the latch/lock actuator assembly, closed the latch with my fingers and sprayed more in there. Then I just yanked the rubber sheathing in the door hinge, pushed the plastic harness cover around a little bit, basically just tried to move the wiring around in a different order in the hinge. I gave everything 15 minutes to settle, came back out and everything works properly. I mean everything now. I regained my door handle touch unlock, and my lock/unlock master switch buttons. The door also recognizes when it's closed now. ONE STRANGE CAVEAT With the car running, I got up and went inside for a minute, holding the keys. The dash never said "KEY NOT DETECTED." I think this is because I started the car just by leaning in with the door open all the way, and never closed the door. Technically, even when the door closed the car at that first moment still considered it open, so it never gave the KEY NOT DETECTED warning. When I got back in later and closed the door, holding the keys, I got KEY NOT DETECTED. I toggled the dome light switch on/off and everything miraculously normalized. That dome light wheel has to be fed power from each door latch actuator assembly in order to recognize when one is open. So I am pretty sure the issue is the wiring in the door hinge, as everyone seems to have issues with. Further evidence, I started having problems with the factory master switch even after fumbling with the door hinge harness. So I've been playing around with the wiring in that hinge recently. SOLUTION FOR THOSE READING DOWN THE ROAD: Some good shots of WD40 into the door latch, in open and closed position Loosen up tension in the door hinge wiring Part 931-900 was NOT needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookieBeeitch Posted September 12 Author Report Share Posted September 12 18 minutes ago, 2late4u said: what he said and also the dealership part shop would be able to provide you with the name of said part and a price for it as well, then you can check for an aftermarket parts if the dealerships price is to high for you......also is your dome light or any lights coming on inside the journey as if its that sensor going bad there should be?????????? The light on the dash showing it’s open, and my dome light would stay on, so I had to manually turn off all the interior lights. I checked the wires that you are talking about. I would say maybe like a year or two ago when I had an issue with my rear wiper, there were like four wires that had broken, but before we were done in that area, we coated them in electrical tape to stop them from moving so much when the back hatch was opened and closed, hoping they wouldn’t break again. I will have to check those wires again. I was hoping to find the actual sensor piece unless I’d have to purchase an entire locking mechanism because it appears the sensor is part of the latch. Thanks for help and info. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 12 Report Share Posted September 12 (edited) please report back on what you find to be the problem for others just remember a wire can be bad even tho its not broken into two pieces,,,I would almost bet its the wires up where you already found some broken to be your problem Edited September 12 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted Saturday at 01:57 AM Report Share Posted Saturday at 01:57 AM Another possibility is if something fell into the latch (like a pebble) and is preventing the tailgate to latch completely. I had similar symptoms when my tailgate window shattered. Some broken glass pieces fell into the latch, preventing it from latching completely. With all the doors and tailgate were shut, the indicator on the dash indicated the tailgate was not closed, yet it was latched shut (at least partially anyway). I slammed it shut multiple times, and it would latch each time, but the indicator remained on. I removed the latch mechanism, shook it around, used compressed air, and glass chucks fell out. After reassembly, the dash indicator went extinguished. Unless the tailgate interior panel was removed (mine was to replace the window) I wouldn't have a clue how something could fall into the latch. I've never done it, but with the latch out, the electrical part of the latch should be fairly easy to test with a meter. Also vice versa, I would think that if you unplugged the wires (connector) from the latch and used a jumper between the wires to simulate a closed latch, the indicator on the dash would go out, confirming your wiring is good. If it is the latch that needs replacing, and if its $$$, try a junk yard. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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