Tiver43809 Posted September 28 Report Share Posted September 28 I hit a large boulder or rock that someone put in the middle of the road last night. Now, I’m leaking brake fluid out of the front end near the radiators. I placed fresh cardboard under my Journey and stepped on the brakes. The brake pedal slowly keeps going down, and on the cardboard right under the front end, there is a puddle of brake fluid. By the time I got home last night, the grill and everything was coated in brake fluid. I'm wondering where the brake line is in the front. Could it be near the smaller radiator? I thought that radiator was for the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 29 Report Share Posted September 29 (edited) pull the tire closet to which side you see the leak you probably have a pin hole leak in the rubber brake line going to the caliper and it is shooting forward if its really is brake fluid,,, as there is no brake fluid lines going near the radiator,only transmission lines.shouldn't be hard to find the leak just refill the brake reservoir and then have someone step on the brake pedal while you see where the fluid is coming from...........also yrs ago my daughter that delivers mail hit a cement block with her caravan and she wasn't going very fast(,mail box to mail box), BUT it shifted her underside carriage and had to find a shop that could relocate it back correctly, so we could get the alinement correct Edited September 29 by 2late4u larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeaWrench Posted September 29 Report Share Posted September 29 Possibly power steering fluid? There is a separate P/S cooler in front of the radiator, at the bottom of the radiator. Check your P/S fluid level. Although if it was P/S fluid, and had lost that much fluid, the P/S pump would be making a noticeable whining/growling noise. Tiver43809 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiver43809 Posted September 29 Author Report Share Posted September 29 Hey DodgeWrench, This makes more sense. I initially had a similar idea, but I went down the wrong path. I took the car for a drive last night and placed cardboard underneath it again. There were three drops that soaked into the cardboard, but not too much. So I'll pursue this idea further. One more thing, do you know what this is and where it's located? When I removed the damaged plastic shield under the car, it was just hanging there. I'm thinking it might be some kind of temperature sensor, but I'm just guessing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted September 29 Report Share Posted September 29 (edited) Ambient air temperature sensor. Mounts behind the lower air intake of the front clip. My 2016 shown below. Edited September 29 by Dean H larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiver43809 Posted September 29 Author Report Share Posted September 29 THANK YOU, I did figure that one out and was going to post when I got the car back together. I took it out for a test drive, and it overheated as I was pulling back into my driveway. It is showing codes P0113 and P0117. I thought that was quite the coinkydink. I called my daughter she said, I was bringing it over to your house because it smelled hot, and my temperature gauge was going from 256 to below 100 every time I stopped somewhere and then got going. It was showing between 212 and 286 then it would go HOT, and then below 100. But then I hit that rock and forgot to tell you about the car overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 P0113-INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT HIGH Theory of Operation The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor is a variable resistor that functions as a normal two wire, 5 volt sensor. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies the IAT Sensor with a 5 volt reference and a filtered ground (return) circuit. For the IAT Sensor diagnostic, the PCM internally monitors the voltage on the signal circuit, which is converted into a temperature reading. If the voltage reads above the high calibrated threshold, or below the low calibrated threshold, a circuit high or low fault is set. When Monitored: This diagnostic runs when the following conditions are met: With the ignition on. Battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts. Set Conditions: The PCM detects that the IAT Sensor input voltage is above the maximum acceptable threshold. Default Actions: MIL light will illuminate. POSSIBLE CAUSES IAT SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE IAT SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) Tiver43809 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted September 30 Report Share Posted September 30 P0117-ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW Theory of Operation The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor is a variable resistor that functions as a normal two wire, 5 volt sensor. The PCM supplies the ECT Sensor with a 5 volt reference and a filtered ground (return) circuit. For the ECT Sensor diagnostic, the PCM internally monitors the voltage on the signal circuit, which is converted into a temperature reading. If the voltage reads above the high calibrated threshold, or below the low calibrated threshold, a circuit high or low fault is set. When Monitored and Set Conditions When Monitored: This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met: With the ignition on. Battery voltage greater than 10.4 volts. Set Conditions: The ECT Sensor input voltage is below the minimum acceptable value. Default Actions: The MIL light will illuminate. The ETC light will illuminate. Throttle input and vehicle speed are limited. Possible Causes ECT SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND ECT SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SENSOR POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM Tiver43809 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiver43809 Posted October 3 Author Report Share Posted October 3 I want to express my gratitude to everyone who has assisted me. I initially started by working on the coolant sensor and thermostat. I decided to test the sensor first, and if it was in good condition (I would still replace it), then move on to the thermostat. However, I accidentally ordered parts for a 3.6 engine instead of the correct 2.4 engine. I have returned the incorrect parts, but the replacement parts won't arrive until today. Yesterday, I pulled and tested the sensor, and I believe it is faulty. I plan to replace the sensor and take the car for a test drive. My question is, does the 2.4 engine require purging/burping? I've seen many videos demonstrating the process for the 3.6 engine, but not for the 2.4. When I move on to the next code, I will create a new post. I'm kind of taking advantage of doing all of this under this one. Thank you, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 3 Report Share Posted October 3 when you say sensor are you referring to the thermostat? you tube would be a great place to see how to burp it as you say,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 3 Report Share Posted October 3 2.4 is a bit different than the 3.6 so good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiver43809 Posted October 4 Author Report Share Posted October 4 The 2013 Dodge Journey saga has come to an end. I installed the new sensor and decided to add coolant to see what would happen. (why it didn't dawn on me why I needed to add coolant...) I managed to pour about half a gallon of coolant in when I heard a noise, coolant was pouring out as fast as I was putting it in. It turns out the radiator has a leak from where it was hit by the boulder. Since replacing the radiator requires removing the AC lines, I called our mechanic. He quoted a labor cost of $250 - $300 for the replacement. Does anyone have a good radiator for sale? Just kidding! Thank you all for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 4 Report Share Posted October 4 (edited) 3 hours ago, Tiver43809 said: The 2013 Dodge Journey saga has come to an end. I installed the new sensor and decided to add coolant to see what would happen. (why it didn't dawn on me why I needed to add coolant...) I managed to pour about half a gallon of coolant in when I heard a noise, coolant was pouring out as fast as I was putting it in. It turns out the radiator has a leak from where it was hit by the boulder. Since replacing the radiator requires removing the AC lines, I called our mechanic. He quoted a labor cost of $250 - $300 for the replacement. Does anyone have a good radiator for sale? Just kidding! Thank you all for your help. It's NOT THAT HARD to replace the radiator! I just did the rad. on my son's '11 3.6 {radiator mounts the same with the 4 cyl}. Just remove the center grill portion and some other EASY remove pieces. There are a number of youtube videos on how to do it. NEW radiator SHOULD be around $200.00, check out rockauto.com Edited October 4 by 5rebel9 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 4 Report Share Posted October 4 great chance you might have overheated your engine, since there wasn't coolant in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiver43809 Posted October 7 Author Report Share Posted October 7 I have replaced radiators, this one you have to remove the AC lines. The cost and time to bring it to the mechanic and have him evacuate the AC system and then bring it back so he can recharge it is not that much more to just have him do it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 7 Report Share Posted October 7 (edited) so did you replace the radiator and the ac condenser? 5reble9 I assume was talking about replacing just the rad so yes there would be a lot bigger cost if replacing both or disconnecting the condenser as well...Great you got it done and hope you get back on the road so take care....P.S. what did you ever find to be your problem in your org post about the brake pedal going all the way to the floor? Edited October 7 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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