DodgeaWrench Posted February 8 Report Share Posted February 8 I'm not having any electrical issues at the moment so I hope I'm not cursing myself for discussing this.  🫢 [disclaimer: The pictures below really make my car look grossly filthy. Must be the light, because its really not that bad.  😳]  While working through a dead battery and parasitic drain on a family member's car (non DJ), I came across these voltage meters that plug into power outlets. They are cheap and easy to use to check and/or monitor the battery and alternator charging voltage. Add one onto your next Amazon order, about 7-8 bucks. To keep in other cars, I bought four for $13. I'm pretty good with a meter, but these are great for a quick check or those who aren't mechanically / meter minded.   There are 3 power outlets in my 2014 DJ. Only the one in the console storage between the seats is hot with the car off. With the car off, testing here is a quick battery voltage test. Should be near 12 volts (below pic).    My DJ does not have an Amperage or Voltage gauge. With the car engine running (below pic), this will give an indication of the alternator voltage. Should be 14+. You can leave it plugged in while driving to monitor.    QUESTIONS: Should the need ever arise (I hope not), to test for parasitic draw using a voltage meter, on the DJ, instead of climbing under the wheel well to get to the battery, under the hood, can I disconnect the positive side here, under the red "+" cover (below pic), to put a meter in series with the electrical system?  (Its winter here. To cold to try, so I figured I'd ask instead.)   When testing for parasitic draw on the non DJ, I had to wait at least 15 minutes for the car to finish completely shutting down after turning the car off. Is that the same with the DJ? (Normal draw on the non DJ was 3-5 amps right after turning off the vehicle, then after 15 minutes, it would drop to .5. )   Thanks.   Dean H, 5rebel9 and Summer Solstice 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted February 8 Report Share Posted February 8 My Dad and Granddad used those in ALL their cars! 40 years ago they were all analog, nice to see now they are digital. Until my time with the DJ's, most all my cars showed voltage on the dash somewhere, I guess I will look into a couple for my "stable" of DJ's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted February 9 Report Share Posted February 9 It faster than 15 mins for go to sleep mode on a Journey. The HVAC dash vents cycle to vent cabin and then close, around 2 mins and should be down to very little current. Digital clock, radio memory, keyless entry etc is less than 0.5 amp like your friends car. I think it's around 180 milli amps or 0.180 amp.  From remote jump spot it sends power to main fuse panel and separate feed to alternator. So you could test alternator diodes (common parasitic load when they fail) using one feed wire and bad blue tooth module (Journey most common parasitic load issue) using other feed wire. There are even fuse load testers that can be used to isolate problems to just once fuse circuit. Pic is a Harbor Freight/Princess Auto fuse load tester that has saved my ass on a few occasions. Was around $25 ish Cdn pesos.````  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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