jontrip247 Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Many of you might think doing these mods are difficult; however, they are fairly simple so long as you take your time. I will provide photos, video links and descriptions on the main areas getting you started. Pleases use this as a getting started guide and take the time to look around to ensure items needing to be removed are removed. Installing bug shield: Very simple... Product: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9JKJ4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00 The bug guard will have a slight ( U ) shape cut-out on the underside. Line this ( U ) shape cutout with the hood latch located on the hood. Look everything over to make sure it fits nicely. Peel the 3M tape cover off and attach... Job complete, unless you want to attach the screws. If you decide to attach the screws - drill a small pilot hole where the screws go and then insert the screws... Installing backup camera and reverse sensors: Products: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CTKYB4/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MPY198/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055XCLK4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 First you need to remove or partially remove all panels/moldings. the key is to gain access and not completely remove, if possible. After these covers/bolts are removed you will be able to remove the plastic molding where the trunk latches. Additional side/top molding removal. For the seat belt bolt you will need a T50 star to unscrew it. After you verify all bolts/screws/knobs are remove you can now pull hard to pop the side and top molding away to gain access to internal compartments. Next you need to remove molding on the trunk door. Start by removing the bolts and pull like a mofo to get it off. To remove the top trim piece on the trunk, you will need to remove 2 plastic push-pins (black)-they are easy to find/see after the larger piece is removed. ***when removing the larger piece, there should be 2 smaller plastic moldings that go up each side that also comes off with the larger piece. I have an arrow pointing to the black rubber tube you will feed all your wires/video cables through. Simply pull on the points of attachment on the rubber to give you more play room. ****you might need to cut some of the rubber-band-like pieces*** don't worry this will not harm anything. Next thing is to remove the plastic above you license plate. as indicated, there are 2 bolts on the outside and one bolt you can find on the inside after removing the large plastic molding in the above step. Ignore the red line in the photo. Photo editor put it in for unknown reasons. You will need to use a drimmell to make a hole in the plastic to run the video cable. Okay, you are almost finished taking everything apart. 1 more item to go. You will need to pull the molding around the drivers & rear passengers seat away. With the drivers door open grab the top weather seal and pull on it. This is just like pealing a banana. Only remove the portion that runs along the head board. Installing the reverse camera and backup sensors. Starting with the trunk door: ***run the video cable, the camera hot wire and the reverse sensor (hot wire) through the rubber piece mentioned before. Take your time, this is not easy*** On the drivers side of the car, in the rear (where you removed the panels partially), you will see where they have a ground location installed. use this for the reverse sensor ground and camera ground. Zip tie like crazy Installing backup sensors: Watch videos: The video above provides all the info you need on sensor install. Installing the camera/monitor: You will now run the HOT camera wire and the camera video to the front of the car. Do this by tucking the wires into the headboard and BEHIND the side airbags in the door seals. *** always put wires behind the airbags*** The videos will show you some of this. -Run the video wire directly to your monitor mounted above the rear-view mirror and plug it in. -run your monitor's ground/hot wire back towards the drivers side panel and down to the drivers side floor board. Accessing your center console. Open the console and pull up on the trim. It will pop off. Grab the shift knob and pull straight up like a mofo to get the knob off. -you will now join the camera & monitor HOT wires and run 1 main HOT wire to your center console. -Next you will run your Monitors ground wire to a location close to the break pedal. -You will run an additional ground wire from the center console to the break pedal. -combine both ground wires and attach them to a bolt on the break pedal. Zip tie to keep wires safely tucked away. On your toggle you will see: Earth - ground Load - HOT monitor/camera wire Supply - HOT wire from fuse box -lastly, run a HOT wire from your fuse box on passenger side to your center console. To do this you will need http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357417409&sr=8-1&keywords=add+a+fuse+mini and a 15-20A mini fuse. Simply attach to your HOT wire and insert into an open spot on your cars fuse box. Journey_SeXT and Lebowski 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubberdude88 Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 Great "How To's". Ours came with the rear back up camera and sensors and I just installed a WeatherTech hood deflector this morning. I drilled pilot holes for the 2 screws (one on each side) and the middle uses double sided tape which to get to stick really good - clean the area with rubbing alcohol then once you tighten down the screws, push up in the middle and bam - done. I let it idle for 10 minutes to generate some heat as I installed it just above freezing. Stuck good now but the screws do most of the work. Cheers. jontrip247 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webslave Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 I just installed the complete WeatherTech kit; floor mats for all three seating rows, hood protector (no screws, just tape) and the window visors in the light tint on all four doors. Wish the bug shield came in the light tint; on the Storm Gray, the light tint is a very good match to the paint's color. Remains to be seen how well the bug deflector stays on the hood using the tape only...it came with four screws, but, the instructions indicated that they weren't used on the Journey (listed some cars where they were to be used, but, the Journey wasn't on the list so I left them off). As an aside and the real reason I'm posting to this thread, the instructions above are very useful, but, for those interested, the WeatherTech items aren't listed for the '13 Journeys (yet), but, they (as listed for the 2012s) fit the '13s perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) Instead of drilling a hole for the camera, I made myself a replacement light using some pieces of plastic and epoxy putty (now you can find these ready made, i.e. light with camera, but at the time I could find nothing):This is a bracket to fix the light in position (it's impossible for me to replicate the clip-on mechanism of the original light). This is where the light bulb will go (just five pieces of plastic kept in place with some tape, before using the epoxy putty)And this is the finished light with the camera, painted black. I routed the cables differently because my screen (which is also a gps receiver) is on the dashboard, above the center air vents.Since I do need to access the center console, by chance do you know how to remove the cap from a manual gearbox stick? (without breaking it). Edited January 8, 2013 by Lebowski Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jontrip247 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 kudos to Lebowski - great job. This is the great thing about modifying our cars and posting online, we can learn from each other and apply these lessons to other rides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeFan72 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Great "How To's", lots of good info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebowski Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Note that now you can find custom cameras on aliexpress replacing one of the lights (just search for "fiat freemont camera"), but at the time there weren't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediccsmith Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 how about changing the round map lights that swivel? Mine are white LED but want to change the color to blue but I can't figure out how to access the bulbs. My mainstreet doesn't have the square map/dome lights, they are the circular lights that you depress the bulb almost for it to turn on. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 how about changing the round map lights that swivel? Mine are white LED but want to change the color to blue but I can't figure out how to access the bulbs. My mainstreet doesn't have the square map/dome lights, they are the circular lights that you depress the bulb almost for it to turn on. Any ideas? Ugh... jkeaton 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 anyone know which wire to tap "Hot" into for the rear reverse lights on the 2011 Journey. I have the back panel off and there seems to be 4 wires going to each light assembly (2 x black/blue and 2 x yellow/red). Trying to figure out which one to tap into for the reverse light power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Look it up here. https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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