hid lights installed

[smarshall2013]

Ok so here is my question and possible problem I installed a set of hid lights 8000k 55w in my journey to only realize that after having to take the grill off to get the headlights out that I needed a relay harness got that ordered to fix the flickering and light shut off fixed but my next thing is trying to get to where the light will not spread out so far be reading quite abit about casper shields and if that will help with the light spreading out so far I am trting to avoid putting peojectores in right now waiting for smoked lenses to come out for it.....but would the casoer shield help with that? Any Help is appreciatted

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Holy cow, 8000k HIDs are like purple. Why did you go with that choice?

[smarshall2013]

They are more ice berg blue they dont show puple at all the 12000 are the ones that show purple as soon as I get my part in and rehook them back up ill post a pic of it

[bramfrank]

Nothing higher than 4300K for anything I have them on . . . and I will never rework factory headlights - too easy for a patrolman to write up an equipment violation as a reward for spending money on extra lighting that doesn't meet the federal sttatutes.

[onlytehbest]

Anything over 5000k is pointless, really 4300K is the ideal temperature for putting light down the road in my opinion.

Not to mention, unless you are retrofitting your headlights with a proper lens and cut-off you are just wasting money.

Aftermarket HIDs are more disruptive to other drivers than they are helpful to you.

Look at any vehicle with stock HIDs and you will see they are behind a lens and have a proper cut-off so as not to blind oncoming traffic.

Not to mention very few stock HID systems exceed 4300K.

8000k is just for looks, It puts out far less lumens than 4300K or even our stock Halogens.......

Go here is you want to learn how to build a proper HID light for our Vehicles.

http://www.hidplanet.com

Copied the follwoing from: http://www.audizine.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-352911.html

Here is some good info to help people decide on what to look for before they buy a HID kit.

Some important information I came from this site (http://www.delonixradar.com.au/hid-xenon/colour-chart.php) and this site (http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=94774)

"Colour temperature ('K') vs brightness...It is a common misconception that higher colour temperatures (K’s) produce brighter lights. This is not true. The colour temperature only determines the colour but not the brightness of the HID light. The Colour Temperature is simply a scale represented by the Kelvin Temperature Chart (hence the abbreviation “K” or “K’s”) as decpited above that measures the colour of the light output. Typically, the higher the colour temperature, the closer you get to achieving bluish to purplish light colours."

and

"The higher the Kelvin, the less light output you get (lumens).
With that said, anything over 6000K is basically a waste.
So, what is the best bulb? IMO the 4300K is the best, as it has the highest light output. The problem, though, is that they have a yellow-ish tinge to them that some people find un-attractive. In that case, 5000-6000k is a better choice for you..... as they have a more blue look to them."


Here is a good chart
http://www.877hidxenon.com/images/hid_color_chart3_fi8v.jpg


Some other good info from this site (http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=94774)

And a comparison of Kelvin to lumens;
Standard OEM halogen 55W 9006(HB4) = 1100lm (lumens)

4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens)
4300k D2R Philips = 2800lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 2400lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4300k D2R Philips = 2000lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4800k D4S/R (brand) = 3800 (lumens) ** brightest in the market
5800k D4S/R (brand) = 3300 (lumens)
7000k D2S other = 1790lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
7000k D2R other = 1390lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2R other = 780lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)

Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless.

One should point out that although light output drops off after 8000k, the fact that the light is in the blue-purple spectrum, it still puts a major strain on the eyes of others.

More useful information

And finally, for anyone searching for information on HID's or lighting in general, here are some important terms to know:
(Thanks to HIDPlanet)
Watt- Measure of electrical power (w)
Volt- Measure of electrical charge (v)
Kelvin- Measure of color temperature (K)
Lumen- Measure of light brightness (lu)
Capsule- technically correct term for a HID "bulb".
Candela- Measure of light intensity (cd)
Ampere- Measure of electrical current
Cut-off- A distinctive line of light produced by the shield in a headlight that blocks light above a certain height in order to prevent blinding of other motorists.
Beam Pattern- The pattern of light that is projected onto the ground which includes angle of lateral dispersion, width and depth of illumination.
Capsule- Another term for an HID bulb. Some refer to HID bulbs as gas discharge capsules.
Optics- The lighting control assembly structured around the bulb, which effects the dispersion of light and it's characteristics to a great degree.
HID (High Intensity Discharge)= Gas Discharge
Halogen= Incandescence

[Mcgusto82]

.. So to answer the original question..

The relay won't work. You'll just get a loud buzzing.

You are going to need hid's that are can bus compatible.

8000 isn't bad in my opinion, but you do loose some brightness.

With 6000 you get a real nice OEM look though. Anything LESS, and it's pointless.

For those who don't know, there's 2 different types of HID bulbs. D2R, and D2S.

The D2R is designed for reflector (DJ) and won't spread out the light.

As long as you have the right bulb, you're ok.

Cops only pull over people for the 10000ks or 12000ks because of the color being too cop like.

[bramfrank]

.. So to answer the original question..

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.

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Cops only pull over people for the 10000ks or 12000ks because of the color being too cop like.

Maybe in Yonkers. Elsewhere they may not be quite so tolerant.

[smarshall2013]

Well got my part in today and got the lights installed and everything working great didn't have to have the cancellers will try to figure out howito post a pic of them

[Sic81]

i recently installed hids in my 09 journey. i have a set of can bus ballasts and they still shut off while im driving. sometimes just one side will go out and sometimes both. what else do i need to fix this?

[smarshall2013]

I put a relay harness in mine and I knock on wood I havent had any shut offs the relays I got are 40 amp relay and 20 amp inline fuse all plug and play took all of about 5 mins to Install.....other than that I havent had to do anything else to keep them working if you are having problems with shut offs you may try a relay harness got mine off ebay for like 10.00

[Sic81]

Yea well my can bus ballasts are supposed to have the relays built in.

[smarshall2013]

Im not sure about that. They built in ballast still may not have enough wattage to support them

[Brad Hillis]

Do you have a link to the relay harness you bought?

I'm trying to get mine to work now, I'm using 6000k Diamond White ones. I'm using 35w for normal driving, and 55w for high beams. I'm driving a 2013 Dodge Journey SXT, 2.4L

The issue I'm having is they work when the car engine is not running, but once I turn the engine on, they shut off on me, I get no pop up messages in the car or anything (I recently installed LED turn bulbs and didn’t put resistors, they went into "hyper flash" mode, so did some digging and round out they needed the relays) Can I use the same relay as I would have in my LED lights, or is there a special one I need to get?

Link to the Xenon HID's I bought for mine.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-35W-55W-HID-Xenon-Conversion-Kit-H1-H3-H4-H7-H8-H9-H11-9005-9006-HB3-HB4-/231274962100?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&var=&hash=item35d90fdcb4

[Brad Hillis]

Update

So I found this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Xenon-HID-Conversion-Kit-Relay-Wiring-Harness-9005-9006-H1-H3-H7-H8-H9-H11-/351250882574?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51c82f200e

I am woundering though if I can use a resistor like I did with my LED lights instead of getting this relay system?

[Lobitz68]

Update

So I found this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Xenon-HID-Conversion-Kit-Relay-Wiring-Harness-9005-9006-H1-H3-H7-H8-H9-H11-/351250882574?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51c82f200e

I am woundering though if I can use a resistor like I did with my LED lights instead of getting this relay system?

The resistors and a relay perform a completely different task...

Resistors provide resistance (hence the name), fooling the vehicle into thinking that there is a halogen bulb being used. Remember, modern vehicles blink faster to indicate that you have a bulb out and since LEDs do not have a filament they do not show the same amount of resistance as a halogen filament type bulb. This is why you add a resistor.

A relay harness provides power to your HIDs (in this case) directly from the battery. They use the OEM bulb harness to close the circuit and provide 12 volts to your bulb directly from the battery. When the lights are turned off, the relay is open and no power is provided.

The reason your bulbs are strobing could be one of two things... First, it could be the vehicle thinking that there is a bulb out. There would be a bulb out indicator on the dash in this case, and the fix would be use of a resistor. More likely what is happening is that the ballast is seeing a fluctuation in power supply because Dodge vehicles use pulse width modulation (PWM) which does not provide a steady 12 volt source of power. Essentially, the power source fluctuates up and down. When there is not enough power to feed the ballast, it flickers.

It is possible that the harness you linked could fix the flickering of your lights, assuming that it doesn't require a full 12 volt signal to activate the relay. If it requires a full 12 volts to activate the relay, then you would need to get a relay with a capacitor built in. This performs the same function as a standard relay harness, but the capacitor holds a charge so that when the PWM provides a power source below 12 volts, the capacitor releases extra power to make up for the loss. When the PWM goes back to a full 12 volts, the capacitor charges and the cycle repeats. Think of it as a small battery that smooth the peaks and dips out of the factory signal.

Hope that help.

[Brad Hillis]

It has provided some great info for me actually, I hope the relay works out without the need for the cap, do you have any other info to go with that, such as the type of cap to use, and how to wire it correctly?

[Lobitz68]

Use a 4700mF cap on the vehicle side of the relay. Pin it directly to the relay neg and pos. Be careful, if you wire it backwards, it will blow and you will need to buy a new one... The negative lead on a capacitor is typically the shorter of the 2 leads.

[journeyfamily]

dont make the same mistake i did with relays etc etc, just purchase a cambus system from here www.lightdepot.ca like i did and only took 10 minutes to put them in, never had a problem with anything just plug and play easy as hell http://www.lightdepot.ca/

[Lobitz68]

dont make the same mistake i did with relays etc etc, just purchase a cambus system from here www.lightdepot.ca like i did and only took 10 minutes to put them in, never had a problem with anything just plug and play easy as hell http://www.lightdepot.ca/

Canbus isn't what is causing the flickering, it is the PWM signal that is sent to the light. If it were the Canbus he would have a "light out" indicator in the dash. That being said, the kit you linked is nothing more than $1 capacitors kitted with shitty Chinese parts and up-charged significantly. I don't doubt it works, but that does not mean it is a good kit, fair price, or a quality product. I would personally spend the extra $ on a nice kit and skip the up-charge to hide $1 capacitors in a box with shitty Chinese parts. Just my opinion.