Oil change Synthetic or regular oil?

[Maverick24]

I am almost due for my first oil change on my 2013 Journey. I normally used Synthetic in all my past vehicles but all my past cars were old beater . I want to know what other New Journey owners use, Synthetic or regular oil?

[Addicted to Dodge]

I choose Pennzoil Synthetic. I have always had good luck with it. I also researched this before my first oil change and I think there is another post on here about this if I am not mistaken. The new filter is design is awesome too BTW. A little costly for the filters but it saves a lot of time.

Good Luck

[Rubberdude88]

I choose Pennzoil Synthetic.

I also use this. Just about to do our 5th oil change. Very happy with the synthetic.

[redtomatoman]

I use dino. Change every 5K miles. Dodge recommends 5-30. I can't get too happy about motor oil, but I have been happy with my fuel economy. Either syn or dino will be, IMHO, fine as long as you pay attention.

Peace.

[Appalachian Journey]

Check product data sheets before purchasing as Chrysler recommends oils that meet their Material Standard 6395. May save aggravation should you have a warranty claim.

[webslave]

I go the recommended change interval or when the EVIC tells me to change it. I bought a '13 RT AWD and at 9765 miles, the EVIC still hadn't told me to change the oil. I got a "deal" (coupon) in the mail from my Dealer and I decided to let them change the oil even though the EVIC hadn't informed me to nor had I hit the 10,000 mile mark. I've always (well for the last 15 years or so) used Mobil 1 Synthetic in my engines (all of them, from lawn mowers to ATVs to antique cars) and I asked that they use synthetic in the oil change and what brand would they be using... Mobil 1 was what they put in the car.

Now for the reasoning that I prefer synthetics. With the extended change intervals on todays vehicles, I prefer to use the best oils available. While many will say "I use Dino, but, change every xxxx miles (usually far less than the recommended interval)" citing the lower cost of Dino and if changed more frequently is just as good. If you use that logic, changing lower cost Dino works out about the same as using synthetic and changing less frequently. I drive about 10,000 miles per year which means that with the new interval I can change oil yearly. The engine is designed to use Dino and still go 10,000 miles, but, the "old" mechanic in me (I come from the 3,000 mile change era) still cringes at 10,000 miles on Dino, so, I went to synthetics years ago. I've found that synthetics stay cleaner longer, have better lubricity, cling tenaciously (less drain back leaving cold start bare metal to metal) and handle high heat (such as found in generators, lawn mowers, log splitters, etc.) much better. My vote and usage is synthetic.

As an aside, my DJ has been averaging 23.5 mpg since it broke in at ~5,000 miles. After this oil change, to synthetic, my average has gone to 23.8 mpg. Due to the oil? Who knows, it could be attributable to other factors, but, we're retired and our driving pattern doesn't change much week to week, the only difference is the change to synthetic. I'll have to see if the mileage stays up or whether it is just a fluke. The engine is also quieter on a cold start. My guess is that the synthetic is not draining out of the top end as much and there is more cushioning and less contact.

Edited October 1, 2013 by webslave

[rolly]

My oil changes are covered until the end of the warranty, but I will look at synthetic oil at that time. One question I would have though, would the oil change indicator in the EVIC notice the difference? I just turned 30,000 km's (over 13,000 of those on a U.S and Canada trip this summer) and have had five oil (counting one in Reno Nevada midway into our trip) changes already, but to be honest I'm a little nervous about going 10,000 miles between changes. I've always been meticulous when it comes to the fluids and because of that (I think) over the years, I've never had any major problems. Old habits are hard to break. Of course it could be that all my vehciles have been Chrylser products except for one Ford.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

I'm at 40k miles almost (which will be my 6th oil change: 4k, 8k, 16k, 24k, 32k, 40k miles). Used mobile 1 synthetic since day one with the oem filters. Not a single problem. I've used mobile 1 on all my vehicles the past decade though and never had a problem.

Did the 2013 go to a 10k oil change interval? My car reminds me every 8k and that's what my manual says.

[Mcgusto82]

I've also got some free oil changes. (4), and ill be using my 3rd in a month or so.

My dealer uses blended synthetic, and I think that's what the manual says.

We're doing oil change every 6 months. Our DJ is something of a driveway queen. She's at 9k miles, going on 2 years in April/may.

Now, my caravan is at 38k miles, I use full synthetic Quaker state. Company pays for it, so why not.

Edited September 26, 2013 by Mcgusto82

[Journey_SeXT]

I am almost due for my first oil change on my 2013 Journey. I normally used Synthetic in all my past vehicles but all my past cars were old beater . I want to know what other New Journey owners use, Synthetic or regular oil?

I switched over to synthetic after my free oil changes were used up. If you are doing your own oil changes like me then it is a must to switch over to synthetic and enjoy the benefits that it gives to your engine. If you are getting the oil changes done at the dealership then its up to you if you want to spend the extra money for synthetic oil. You can do the OCI at twice the mileage of conventional oil so it works out to the same cost. If you plan on doing your own oil changes then remember to save all your receipts, use a genuine Mopar oil filter and mark the date and mileage of the oil change to keep your warranty valid.

BTW my favorite synthetic oils to use are Castrol Edge (Syntec) & Mobil1. Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability are used when the auto parts store have their dirt cheap specials and they are great quality oils too!

[rolly]

It says under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles or 16,000 kms or 12 months whichever comes first.

[Slick26]

I have the older 3.5 HO, so this will obviously be different for the newer people; but I have tried Amsoil synthetic and Mobil 1 synthetic, and both were not good for my engine.

I had to bring my Journey to the dealership on several occasions because it was burning oil so bad. They calculated it at a rate of 2-3 qts per 3,000 miles.

Chrysler states 1 qt per 3,000 miles is normal... which I somewhat disagree with, but that is their standard. This was 2-3 times that.

After much diagnosis, at 100% expense to me, it was discovered that the culprit was none other than the synthetic oil. Once I switched to their "Dodge" oil at the dealership, it hardly burned any oil at all. Moral of the story, the 3.5 HO is not a good engine for synthetic, at least not mine anyway.

This is all fine with me, since I'm saving money putting regular oil in the car. I just wish I could get the longer oil change intervals that I used to get with synthetic in other vehicles.

My Journey BARELY makes it to 3,000 miles before desperately needing to be changed. I used to put full synthetic in other cars of mine that would last 10,000 miles or MORE and still had oil life left in them, but the 3.5 HO is just not that kind of engine. The tolerances are way too loose.

There's my 2 cents, hope it helps someone.

Btw, I still use synthetic in my other vehicles, and my motorcycle, with absolutely NO problems. It's just that darn 3.5 V6 that is the problem.

Edited September 27, 2013 by Slick26

[Maverick24]

Thanks everyone for your input...

[jkeaton]

I'm using the mobile 1 extended mileage.

[redtomatoman]

I'm going to play the devil's advocate and go against the grain here. Dino is better if you change more frequently and continually have clean oil in your engine. There. I said it.

I have my flame suit on and I'm pretty bullet-proof.

Peace.

[rolly]

I'm going to play the devil's advocate and go against the grain here. Dino is better if you change more frequently and continually have clean oil in your engine. There. I said it.

I have my flame suit on and I'm pretty bullet-proof.

Peace.

Look out, we might see some fried red tomatoes LOL!

[Lobitz68]

I typically use the Mobil1, but recently did not have the time to change it myself and stopped by the dealer on my way to a function... Ended up buying a 4 change package. I'm sure they use dino, so I will probably shorten up the oil changes for those.

[Lobitz68]

I'm going to play the devil's advocate and go against the grain here. Dino is better if you change more frequently and continually have clean oil in your engine. There. I said it.

I have my flame suit on and I'm pretty bullet-proof.

Peace.

Why better? Equivalent, sure...I can buy that. The protection offered from a synthetic is as good if not better than dino. It's the long changes where the protection lasts longer that makes synthetic a superior product. Though I am still a believer in the better lubricating properties of synthetics, especially as it relates to keeping things oiled after stuff has had time to drain back.

[bramfrank]

I just bring it to Costco - $50 Canadian for the change including the filter and they use Castrol Synthetic, not that it means anything if you change your oil regularly. And because I am an 'Executive member' I get 2% cash back in addition to the cashback I get from my credit card.

Edited June 11, 2015 by bramfrank

[bfurth]

I plan on putting Pennzoil Platinum in mine when the time comes. Mobil 1 is not MS-6395 badged, so there is a risk while you are still under the powertrain warranty. It would have to be proven that your use of Mobil 1 caused whatever problem, but it's an avenue for a denied warranty claim. Pennzoil (or any oil from Shell Helix) is going to meet manufacturer specs.

[bfurth]

I didn't say there was anything bad about it. All I said is that Pennzoil is badged MS-6395 compliant (a requirement for Chrysler vehicles), and even referenced specifically in the 2015 owner's manual as a recommended oil. Pennzoil conventional, synthetic, whatever (except high mileage - it's not MS-6395 compliant), it's (almost) all good. Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus 5w-20 is also only $25 on Amazon. Guess who gets my money.

Castrol GTX and Edge are MS-6395 as well (High Mileage is NOT MS-6395 compliant).

Most likely, I will be going with Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus and a Purolator One (PL12222) filter. There is no way I would ever allow a Fram filter on my vehicle after having seen how they are built (top and bottom caps on the filter media are cardboard, compared to steel for Purolator and OEM). I've been running my T&C with Pennzoil conventional and a Purolator One filter for the last 2 1/2 years - other than bad valve seals (which were there when I bought it), it's had no issues at all.

Edited August 3, 2016 by jkeaton

[jkeaton]

I've heard the stories about Fram filters. I have used Fram on all my vehicles for the past 30 some years. I have never had an issue. Not disputing, just stating there are always two sides to a story.

[bfurth]

I've heard the stories about Fram filters. I have used Fram on all my vehicles for the past 30 some years. I have never had an issue. Not disputing, just stating there are always two sides to a story.

My old Malibu got Purolator Classic filters (same internal construction as the PureOne models, but less aggressive filter media and no rubberized grip coating). That filter was $4. The Fram equivalent would have been $3, but was made with cardboard instead of steel caps. Purolator filters are made in the USA, Fram I'm not sure. For a $1 difference in price, I went with the better product. The PureOne filters have the same internal construction as K&N (and other high price) spin on filters, but are in the $7-$7.50 range.

Those of you with the Pentastar can ignore all of this - your filters are nothing more than a plastic cage and the filter media. As long as it fits, it's fine.

Edited June 11, 2015 by bfurth

[jkeaton]

The fram filter for my 3.6 is $11 at walmart. Stupid they charge you more for less.

[bfurth]

Amazon has a K&N PS-7026 for $9. Fram too (CH11665).

It's a bigger filter (more surface area) than the 2.4L filters. The Purolator One filters (PL12222) for that are a little over $7. The 3.6L filter has probably twice as much surface area on it.

Edited June 11, 2015 by bfurth