redtomatoman Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Why better? Small amounts of particulate matter get into the oil. Over time it is this grit that wears out the cylinders, rings, etc. Even though the lubrication may be better with synthetic initially. About 5k miles, I believe, they are equal due to the oil no longer being clean. Its the next 5k miles that are causing engine wear. Even worse if you use a higher flow filter like K&N. Changing your oil more frequently gets the engine clean oil and a fresh oil filter. AND, an opportunity to check the air filter. I'm no mechanic, I'm not really even a good driver, but that's my theory on oil and engine life. I change my DJ's oil every 6 months or 5k miles, whichever comes first. I change my 1991 dakota's oil every 3k. 243k miles and still running strong. Sorry if my post drudges up the same old oil debate, I just couldn't resist. Notice I only gave my opinion, not any inference as to what others should do. Peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Small amounts of particulate matter get into the oil. Over time it is this grit that wears out the cylinders, rings, etc. Even though the lubrication may be better with synthetic initially. About 5k miles, I believe, they are equal due to the oil no longer being clean. Its the next 5k miles that are causing engine wear. Even worse if you use a higher flow filter like K&N. Changing your oil more frequently gets the engine clean oil and a fresh oil filter. AND, an opportunity to check the air filter. I'm no mechanic, I'm not really even a good driver, but that's my theory on oil and engine life. I change my DJ's oil every 6 months or 5k miles, whichever comes first. I change my 1991 dakota's oil every 3k. 243k miles and still running strong. Sorry if my post drudges up the same old oil debate, I just couldn't resist. Notice I only gave my opinion, not any inference as to what others should do. Peace. My understanding of one of the benefits of synthetic oil was that it actually suspends those particles, keeping them away from the metal portions of the engine. Regardless, I now have 3 remaining oil changes at the dealer that will be dino. Since I have the lifetime bumper to bumper warranty it doesn't concern me as much as it normally would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I plan on putting Pennzoil Platinum in mine when the time comes. Mobil 1 is not MS-6395 badged, so there is a risk while you are still under the powertrain warranty. It would have to be proven that your use of Mobil 1 caused whatever problem, but it's an avenue for a denied warranty claim. Pennzoil (or any oil from Shell Helix) is going to meet manufacturer specs. I did not know this. Good info... Pretty good discussion so far. My father has always been against Fram. I think the Bob Oil Guy website also states they are cheaply made. I've used their products in a pinch and had no problems. I've been looking at Bosch filters. They make one for the DJ. About $11.50 I think. I have used them for the last couple of years. They appear to be a nicely constructed filter, but it is really hard to say without seeing one cut open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAdNL7bT0C8 - pays special attention to a Fram Extra Guard filter - and serves as my reason to NEVER use them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLGCv4Fg8oA - compare K&N canister filter to Purolator Classic (plus 9 others). If the Purolator Classic (their cheapest filter) is built internally to the same level as a K&N (which run $12 or more for equivalent parts) minus the filter media itself, the logical conclusion is that the PureOne filters are built AT LEAST as well, but have a better filter media (than a Classic). And the PureOne is only $7. Thus is my reasoning behind PureOne. For my T&C, every time a dealership has touched the oil (last time, I made them use my bottle of Pennzoil - I had already bought it, and that's what they were going to use anyway, so no reason to spend the money again and make me store a jug of oil in the garage), and used a Mopar filter, the oil change light has come on at 2,500 miles (6,000 mile max interval). When I change it, and I use Pennzoil conventional 5w-20 and a PureOne filter, the light comes on at 5,500 miles. Every. Time. I know it's all based on duty cycle and not actually monitoring the oil directly, but there has to be something to it if the only other difference is that a dealership touched it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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