MJ FROM MB Posted July 10, 2014 Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 Ok please be advised that the following is from my personal thoughts, facts and real life results with towing just under 3500lbs with my Dodge Journey. ** If your Journey does not have the trailer prep group please stop and do not attempt this as you do need the engine oil cooler and the four pin pre wire that comes with it. ( the body control computer needs to be updated at the dealer for the wiring to work after it is installed ) ** I like the rest of you could not figure out why half way through 2011 dodge dropped the tow rating from 3500lbs to 2500lbs, even with the trailer prep group. I think I have an answer. Lets recap the 2011 changes. - Interior major upgrades - Exterior styling upgrades ** no changes to any structure - Engine 3.6lt Pentastar is great - brakes - unchanged parts ( calipers, pads, rotor part numbers ) but upgraded abs, electrical and software - Transmission is unchanged - GCVRW is unchanged at 8300lbs with the trailer tow prep group installed So why the drop in tow capacity. The 2011 and newer Journeys have a revamped and improved electrical system that makes it virtually impossible to install a brake controller. It is vary difficult to find a 12volt reference for the brake controller to know you have your foot on the brake. They eliminated the 7 pin prewiring, got rid of the stop light switch and the LED brake lights always have 6volts going to them even when they are off. You can not use anything from the four pin factory harness because it is control by the body control computer and does not have a separate brake wiring.So to add a brake controller you either have to get the expensive Prodigy RF brake controller or tap into a 12volt reference line that runs from the brake master cylinder pressure switch ( this is the new stop light switch for the system ) to the body control computer. I choose the tap into the body control computer as the idea of my trailer brakes being controlled by a blue tooth signal scares me. So if you want to install a brake controller, I am going to assume you have already run a 12 volt power line from the battery with a 30 amp circuit breaker ( not a fuse ), you have run a ground wire to the grounding post on the left front strut tower and you have run a blue brake wire back to your 7 pin wiring set up. So now you need a 12 volt brake reference line so you controller knows you have stepped on the brake. Open and remove your glove box. on you right you will see a vertically aligned box with about 8 plugs on it. On the upper row the connector that is close to the glove box opening is a 24 pin connector. Pin number 18 that is dark green with a white stripe will be the 12 volt reference from the brake master cylinder. You will need to test this with a multimeter as there is not enough amperage to light a test light. With the brake on there is 12volts and brake off there is no voltage. Tap this line and run it to your brake controller. Plug in a tester or your trailer and check the brake controller operation. Actually towing 3500lbs. First I will say this. I will not tow through the mountains with this much weight. I know the Journey is not a Tow Vehicle like a truck, However, I live in the flat lands and I will only be towing in about a 4hr radius of home that only has moderate hills. I have a Jayco 184BH with a dry weight of 2715 and a tongue weight of 300lbs. Loaded I am at about 3100-3200lbs and about 335 on the tongue. I also am using a weight distributing hitch. Now there is myself, my wife, toddler and a dog. I carry nothing in the back of the Journey as I know I am approaching the limits and prefer to have the weight in the trailer. With the hitch setup and no one in the vehicle there is only a one inch drop in the rear ride height. The vehicle has a great and comfortable ride with us in it and I have no concerns. I have watched the transmission, oil and coolant temperatures in the dash display and have found that even when it is almost 90 degrees with 90% humidity the temperatures are all comfortably normal and the vehicle does not feel stressed. There is plenty of power for climbing overpasses and more then enough power to get you a speeding ticket. To recap it makes a good tow vehicle at the old ratings of 3500lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ FROM MB Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 I have added this table. This is what is published in the first half of 2011 for towing with the new updated Journey. This again supports my theory that it was an issue with wiring support for the brake controller and a possible marketing move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davea180 Posted July 10, 2014 Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 I just wanted to add to this that just today I finished my install of a Prodigy brake controller. Disregard my other post regarding. I also wanted to add that it would be a bit of insurance to add a 12v relay with a diode on the positive side of the coil as I did behind the glovebox. Therefore, the Can bus will not be subjected to any voltage spikes when the brake pedal is released and the signal is no longer present. I tested pulled my 2000k popup today and I barely knew it was back there. I am confident in the DJ as a tow vehicle and even more now that I have brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ FROM MB Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks for that idea. I never thought to protect the BCM if there was a reverse voltage spike form the controller. I will add this. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davea180 Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 This: http://www.delcity.net/store/Relays-with-Diode/p_73578 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belvedereconv Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 I finally got my brake controller installed on my 2014 journey. after a lot of research talking to dodge dealer, trailer hitch install shops ect. and help from a GM mechanic that showed me how to find the correct connection on the body control module for the third brake lamp switch, the GM mechanic said this was the best solution as not to pull from one of the right or left brake lights . find the white with dark green stripe on C6/F its a .50 brake lamp switch output position on pin 39. its on the middle back module. took trailer for a test run about 30min from home and had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5zigen Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 I'm running tekonsha p3, with oem Mopar seven way wiring and hitch for enclosed 6x12 v-nose. Run great... All temperature and gauge are stable. It's a must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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