Brandon Bella Bell Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I have a 2009 Journey with a 4 cylinder, it first started chugging slightly when ever I was trying to go up a steep incline or trying to maintain speed while going up a hill. The other night it started chugging/cutting out really bad ad the check engine light came on. As soon as i let out on the gas it quit and the light went off. I'm thinking it might be a misfire but wanted to get ant opinions that you all might have Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 The 4 cyl used in these vehicles (World Engine starting 2007) require OE plugs changed every 30,000 kms so start there. Read the codes stored to see if it is a particular plug coil assy. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 i agree change plugs and wires 1st good start.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Bella Bell Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I was going to go ahead a replace the plugs and possibly the wires next week. Every time I buy a car I like to change the plugs, wires, oil, and transmition fluid just so that I know everything is good. I'll get the codes looked at to see though thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) You won't have wires as the plugs are fired by a coil on each cylinder. What was the code?? This will likely give you an answer quicker than the guess and check method (though it sounds like you may be due for plugs anyway). Edited December 15, 2014 by Lobitz68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Bella Bell Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 (edited) it does not cut out all the time, and the check engine light only came on the one time, but the cutting out and hugging is getting worse any ideas? could one of the coils be bad? I did a code check and there are no codes showing Edited December 18, 2014 by Brandon Bella Bell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Have you cleaned the throttle body? How about the air filter? Check those, maybe add some SeaFoam to the fuel tank. Cleaned the throttle body on mine, good as new (although I has the six). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 If the CEL EVER came on, the code is stored, even if the light goes off (unless someone disconnected the battery for an extended period of time). Who is/how are you checking the codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 If the CEL EVER came on, the code is stored, even if the light goes off (unless someone disconnected the battery for an extended period of time). Who is/how are you checking the codes? THIS... There is a code there somewhere... You need ignition, fuel and oxygen for a motor to run, so I would go down that route. OhareFred gave a good starter list. I've seen where the EGR has caused similar issues as well, so that may be worth throwing on the list. And yes, it is possible for a coil to go bad. You would likely have a light on though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Bella Bell Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) ok I got the code its a misfire in piston 3, anyone know the firing order in the 2.4L 4 cylinder? Edited December 18, 2014 by Brandon Bella Bell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 For the 2.4L engine, the firing order is: 1-3-4-2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 If you know you have a misfire, I would change the 4 plugs, use a little Di-Electric grease on the top of the plugs before you put the coil back on. If it comes back, I would then change the coil. Start with the plugs, costs less and won't hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Swap the coil with another one before replacing. See if the misfire follows the coil or stays. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Does the 4 cylinder have a coil pack for each cylinder? Just curious. Initially, the 3.7 V6 had 6 coil packs, and one year they went to 3: each coil pack served 2 cylinders. With that big piece of plastic covering my Pentastar, I have no idea what is under it! LOL jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Does the 4 cylinder have a coil pack for each cylinder? Just curious. Initially, the 3.7 V6 had 6 coil packs, and one year they went to 3: each coil pack served 2 cylinders. With that big piece of plastic covering my Pentastar, I have no idea what is under it! LOL Hmm...good question. I just "assumed" it had separate ones on the 4 cylinder. As far as the cover goes, pull it off, just pops off. It's pretty fugly underneath....no wonder they covered it...lol.... dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 2.4L Engine NOTE Prior to removing coil, spray compressed air around coil top to make sure no dirt drops into the spark plug tube. The electronic ignition coil attaches directly to the valve cover. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove engine cover. Disconnect electrical connector from ignition coil. Remove ignition coil mounting bolts. Twist the ignition coil then pull straight up. Ignition coils—2.4L engine To install: Install ignition coil onto spark plug. Install ignition coil mounting bolt, tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Connect ignition coil electrical connectors. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 This answers my question. Swapping one coil pack for another is an excellent idea. Thank you for the post. Do you have a similar outline for the V6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hmm...good question. I just "assumed" it had separate ones on the 4 cylinder. As far as the cover goes, pull it off, just pops off. It's pretty fugly underneath....no wonder they covered it...lol.... Do I just pull it up to get it off? Any trick to this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Access to the coil packs on the Pentastar is not that easy as as it is a transverse mounted V6 , the cover however is easy to remove and sits on ball and socket pressure points , just lift straight up and take a good look at the mounts. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 What he said. ^^. It literally "pops" out. Start at one corner and give the cover a firm tug straight up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Removal & Installation 3.6L 3.6L Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 1 and 3 on the RH side of the engine, first remove the resonator (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal). If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) and insulator (Refer to Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal)(Refer To List 1). NOTE The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the ignition coil. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolt (3). Pull the ignition coil (2) from cylinder head cover opening with a slight twisting action. 3.6L 3.6L Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or contaminants from around the top of spark plug. Check the condition of the ignition coil rubber boot (1). Inspect the opening of the boot (2) for any debris, tears or rips. Carefully remove any debris with a lint free cloth. CAUTION Do not apply a silicone based grease such as Mopar® Dielectric Grease to the ignition coil rubber boot. The silicone based grease will absorb into the boot causing it to stick and tear. Place a small, 360° bead of Uniflor 8172 lubricant (1) along the inside opening of the coil boot approximately 1 to 2 mm from the chamfer edge but not on the chamfered surface. NOTE The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar. Position the ignition coil (2) into the cylinder head cover opening. Using a twisting action, push the ignition coil onto the spark plug. Install the ignition coil mounting bolt (3) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications). Connect and lock the electrical connector (1) to the ignition coil (2). If removed, install the intake manifold (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Installation)(Refer To List 1). Connect the negative battery cable and tighten the nut to the proper (Torque Specifications). dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Upper Intake Manifold (removal) UPPER Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover (1). Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal). Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7). Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness. Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2) Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2). Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1). Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2). NOTE The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold. NOTE Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2). Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1). dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Upper Intake Manifold (installation) UPPER NOTE Prior to installing the upper intake manifold, verify that the four fuel rail bolts were not inadvertently loosened. The bolts must tightened in the sequence shown to 7 N·m (62 in. lbs.) (Refer to Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel - Installation)(Refer To List 1). Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces. Install new upper to lower intake manifold seals (1). NOTE Make sure the fuel injectors and wiring harnesses are in the correct position so that they don't interfere with the upper intake manifold installation. If removed, install the insulator (2) to the two alignment posts (3) on top of the LH cylinder head cover. Lift and hold the seven upper intake attaching bolts (1) clear of the mating surface. Back the bolts out slightly or if required, use an elastic band to hold the bolts clear of the mating surface. Position the upper intake manifold (1) onto the lower intake manifold so that the two locating posts (2) on the upper intake manifold align with corresponding holes (3) in the lower intake manifold. Install the seven upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.). Install two nuts (1) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) and tighten the studbolt (2) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) Engage the wire harness retainer (3) to the studbolt (2). Engage the wire harness retainer (4) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Install two upper intake manifold support brackets (2) with two studbolts (3) and two nuts (1). Tighten the studbolts (3) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) and tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.). Install the nut (2) to the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1) and tighten to 12 N·m (106 in. lbs.). Connect the following hoses to the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2) Connect the electrical connectors to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7). Secure the ETC harness to the clip (7) on the throttle body and engage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) to the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor. Install the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Installation). Connect the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.). Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Install the engine cover (1). REFER TO LIST: dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 This answers my question. Swapping one coil pack for another is an excellent idea. Thank you for the post. Do you have a similar outline for the V6? 3,6L (Pentastar) ignition coil removal/install and includes upper intake manifold removal/install....Hope what I posted helps. 2late4u and dhh3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Removal Air intake system (Resonator) REMOVAL Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover (1). Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. Loosen the clamp (4) and remove the air inlet hose from the resonator (1). Remove the push pin (3). Installation INSTALLATION Lubricate the two rubber mount sockets (2) on the resonator (1) with Mopar® Rubber Bushing Installation Lube. Install the resonator to the throttle body inlet. Push the resonator (1) down onto the two locating pins (3) on the right cylinder head cover until the rubber mount sockets (2) are fully seated. Install the push pin (3). Install the air inlet hose to the resonator (1) and tighten the clamp (4) to 4 N·m (35 in. lbs.). Connect the electrical connector (2) to the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. Install engine cover (1). Connect the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.). dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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