Engine Overheating

[xXlowkotaXx]

I have a 2012 Journey and have been having an issue with it overheating the past week. I noticed over the weekend while driving that the temperature of the engine was up to almost 250° so I stopped at the nearest gas station. After stopping the temperature dropped all the was down to 220° within about 60 seconds (Which seems really fast for how high it was running). So since it cooled down I decided to drive it home. The whole drive home the temperature would go up when I was on the gas and drop back down to normal while stopped or coasting. So far this week I've been driving it to and from work and the temp has been staying in the normal range, until today. This morning on my way home from work it started running hot and then cooling down rapidly after stopping. Has anyone ever had thus issue? I just had the water pump, thermostat, and cooling fan replaced about 3 months ago.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

I have a 2012 Journey and have been having an issue with it overheating the past week. I noticed over the weekend while driving that the temperature of the engine was up to almost 250° so I stopped at the nearest gas station. After stopping the temperature dropped all the was down to 220° within about 60 seconds (Which seems really fast for how high it was running). So since it cooled down I decided to drive it home. The whole drive home the temperature would go up when I was on the gas and drop back down to normal while stopped or coasting. So far this week I've been driving it to and from work and the temp has been staying in the normal range, until today. This morning on my way home from work it started running hot and then cooling down rapidly after stopping. Has anyone ever had thus issue? I just had the water pump, thermostat, and cooling fan replaced about 3 months ago.

Definitely do not let it get above 230-240deg F again! That's the damage point. You can easily warp the block/blow a head gasket at those temps. The only time I've gotten to 230deg is up the 20mile long mountain pass on the way to Vegas on a 115deg day with the A/C blasting. (Going 75mph up a long steep mountain in 4th gear really heats things up). I turned the A/C off and temps went back down to 220deg until the mountain pass was over.

Did you have those parts replaced to try to fix the high coolant temps? Or did the high temps start after replacing those parts? I would start with the basics, even though they replaced those parts, verify they are working. Does the relay kick on the fan properly? Does the fan turn on with the A/C turned on? Does the thermostat actually open? Is the coolant temp sensor working or is it giving bogus readings? Are there any coolant leaks whatsoever or does the fluid level stay good?

If all of those systems are working, then the only other problem would be the radiator itself. May be clogged and need a back flush with high pressure water.

[xXlowkotaXx]

It was overheating a few month's ago and I replaced the thermostat, but then I found that it was the water pump that was spitting out fluid. So I took it to the dealership and had that replaced since it was still under warranty. But I still had issue's with it overheating so it was back in there a couple more times until they told me it was the cooling fan that wasn't kicking into high. So I bought that and replaced it and it's been fine up until this week. I've been leaning more towards it possibly being the temp sensor because it will get very hot but not shoot fluid out of the overflow nor can I hear it bubbling like it was doing last time.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

It was overheating a few month's ago and I replaced the thermostat, but then I found that it was the water pump that was spitting out fluid. So I took it to the dealership and had that replaced since it was still under warranty. But I still had issue's with it overheating so it was back in there a couple more times until they told me it was the cooling fan that wasn't kicking into high. So I bought that and replaced it and it's been fine up until this week. I've been leaning more towards it possibly being the temp sensor because it will get very hot but not shoot fluid out of the overflow nor can I hear it bubbling like it was doing last time.

That is interesting. You would think the dealer could trace down the problem. Have you tried touching the main upper/lower radiator hoses when the reading gets up that high? You should still be able to touch them if they were in the normal 180-190deg reading. If it's reading 250deg, you should easily be able to tell a difference with your hand (or a laser temp gun if you have one). If there's no difference, then the coolant temp sensor is bogus.

[bramfrank]

Wanna bet you have a bad head gasket or cracked block?

Don't do your own work, this problem started while the vehicle was under warranty and clearly was not properly repaired, so go back to the dealer and have them fix it right.

The good news is that you had *them* change the water pump, so you can point the finger their way.

[dhh3]

Bring it back to whomever fixed it. Now, the repairs should be on them.

[redtomatoman]

Definitely take it back to the dealer who did the repairs. It could be something serious or simple. One thing not yet mentioned is having air in you coolant circulation. This can impede coolant flow and cause temp to rise when the coolant stops and drop when it flows again. Your radiator may need to be cleaned and flushed to improve flow as well. How's your heat working?

Peace.

[DodgeCares]

Hi xXlowkotaXx,

As other have mentioned, I definitely recommend taking your vehicle to a dealership. If you would like me to assist with this at all, please feel free to PM me your VIN and contact information.

[nelsonkn1]

If you haven't already been told, your head gaskets are blown. We just experienced the same problem. The car would run hot. The coolant levels were fine and the next thing you know the coolant was gone. Ours got to the point where it busted the radiator and cracked the coolant overflow bottle. After taking it to the dealership a couple of times, we found a service tech with half a brain. Fortunately, we caught the issue 1 week before the powertrain warranty ran out. The journey has a 5 year powertrain warranty from the date of first sale. Don't be duped. Unfortunately, they are refusing to cover replacing the radiator or cracked coolant overflow bottle. They said it's not covered under the warranty even if it was caused by something that is. If you're having an issue with your journey overheating, take it to the dealership immediately. Don't let them fool you in to thinking it was a fluke. They know about this issue and are trying to avoid losing money. Now we have to pay almost $1,000 to replace the radiator and coolant overflow. It sucks but it made no sense to drive a vehicle with a cracked radiator to another shop to be fixed for less while the dealer is already replacing the heads.

[Lobitz68]

...Don't let them fool you in to thinking it was a fluke. They know about this issue and are trying to avoid losing money...

Why is everyone such a conspiracy theorist these days?? I'm glad not everyone is out to get me, it would make for a miserable existence.

[bfurth]

All one needs to do is look at the post count. My guess? Nelsonkn1 over here let the engine run HOT for a while, but it dropped back down and never thought about it again. One day, he got a low coolant light. Put more coolant in, because hey, the car says it's low! No problems for a few months. Then it happened again, and more frequently. All the while, he never changes his own oil (won't notice the frothy milky slop that's building up), and probably used non HOAT in his 2010. Then thought, well, this is the 4th time I've had to put coolant in here, so maybe I should take it to a dealership while I'm under the last little bit of my warranty. Yeah, stick it to the manufacturer and make them fix it! Then gets surprised when they tell him it's a blown head gasket (no kidding - engine temps shouldn't suddenly spike) and oh, btw, there's a cracked radiator.

Take care of your stuff and it will take care of you!

[nelsonkn1]

I love dealing with people who think they know it all, yet know nothing. We just purchased this vehicle used at the end of last year. We didn't have any problems with it until a couple of months ago. One thing you did manage to get right is the fact that I don't change my own oil. I don't enjoy doing it, I work a lot and I can afford to pay someone to do it. It has nothing to do with sticking it to the dealer. I took it to the dealer. They said nothing was wrong. Took it back a week later and they said the heads were blown. This is a site for informing consumers. If it's a manufacturer's issue it should be shared. I hope whatever dealer you work for is nice enough to do so.

[bfurth]

I don't work for a dealership - I'm not even in the auto industry! I do my own maintenance work because I enjoy the time spent working on something real (I manage an IT help desk for a living, so my of what I have to do is bureaucratic nonsense, but it pays well!) Doing my own maintenance allows me to find problems long before they become an actual issue.

A 2010 vehicle could have been built as early as fall of 2009. Chrysler vehicles used HOAT (orange) coolant at that time. The HOAT change interval is 60 months or approximately 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. It is the owner's responsibility to change these things out BEFORE they cause a problem. Failure to do so is your responsibility, and not changing them WILL void parts of your warranty. What coolant did you put back in the radiator? HOAT from a Chrysler dealership, or some "universal" coolant from an auto parts shop?

Coolant is a closed system - there is nowhere for it to go. If you are missing coolant (due to something other than volume changes due to temperature), then you have a leaking gasket or radiator. The quickest check is your oil dip stick. If it looks like chocolate milk, you most likely have a leaking/blown head gasket.

My last vehicle was a 2003 Chevy Malibu with the 3100 engine. Don't get me started on all the problems THAT POS had. The lower intake manifold gasket material did not react well to the additives found in Dex-Cool. Which would be fine, if that isn't what GM used as their coolant. There was a class action lawsuit regarding that particular issue - which was settled and closed before I even bought the car, and didn't know about it until after I had paid for the repair, and still had no recourse. It SHOULD have been a recall, but it's not a "safety" issue, so it won't be recalled (this is also coming from the same company who covered up ignition cylinder issues for a decade which actually cost people their lives). I got rid of it because I found coolant in the oil (again...) and it failed a coolant system pressure test (performed at home for half the cost of paying a mechanic to diagnose it).

The powertrain warranty covers internal components of the engine as well as the block, head, and oil pan. Hoses, radiators, fluid, etc. are not covered. Period. The reservoir bottle does not hold pressure (there is an opening on it that allows overly hot fluid to spill out when pressure inside the radiator gets too high), so it cracking is not necessarily directly related to increased temp from a leaking/cracked head gasket.

The radiator replacement cost is not just for the radiator. It's for a coolant flush (required for the head gasket replacement anyway), A/C refrigerant capture/recycle/refill, and possibly a transmission fluid drain/fill as well (depends on whether or not the 2010 used a transmission oil cooler, which would be part of the radiator). It's a lot of labor at $120+ per hour.

Buying a used car has inherent risks. Sure, you can save a few thousand dollars on it. It may be all you can afford at the time. Who knows what your situation is. But a used vehicle is more likely to have problems. Most people don't do a particularly good job of maintaining their vehicles (partially because dealerships and mechanics charge ENTIRELY too much for basic service). The end result is there are a lot of junk used cars out there, even though the average model of that vehicle is substantially less costly to keep on the road.

[nelsonkn1]

I don't disagree with any of that. It's the same thing the service tech told me. We purchased this Journey with 43,000 miles on it. There were no leaks or signs of anything. We didn't notice any leaks until the week after taking it to the dealer, which is why it went back. I used to do all the service on all of my vehicles. I got enjoyment out of it. I'm past that. Working 50+ hours a week and ripping apart a car on a Saturday is no longer my weekend plan. Yes, the dealerships can be outrageously priced but you get what you pay for. I would much rather grit my teeth and pay it than sitting on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck. Anything I can't fix or refuse to try is done by the dealer. New or used, there will always be issues. Sometimes minor, sometimes major.

The powertrain warranty covers internal components of the engine as well as the block, head, and oil pan. Hoses, radiators, fluid, etc. are not covered. Period. The reservoir bottle does not hold pressure (there is an opening on it that allows overly hot fluid to spill out when pressure inside the radiator gets too high), so it cracking is not necessarily directly related to increased temp from a leaking/cracked head gasket.

The radiator replacement cost is not just for the radiator. It's for a coolant flush (required for the head gasket replacement anyway), A/C refrigerant capture/recycle/refill, and possibly a transmission fluid drain/fill as well (depends on whether or not the 2010 used a transmission oil cooler, which would be part of the radiator). It's a lot of labor at $120+ per hour.

[Swilkinson6]

I have a 2013 Journey that I bought used July 2015. Last week, the vehicle made a strange noise, when I came to a stop light the vehicle quit. It would not start back up, after approx 1 hour, the vehicle started up and a message came up that the engine oil was hot and might affect speed. I was able to move the vehicle to the side of the road. Opening the hood, noticed that the radiator cap was partially off and coolant was all over the engine. The car was towed to the dealership where I purchased it who in turn towed it to a Dodge dealership. After one week, I finally get a call and was told that coolant was found in the cylinders, obviously I was not maintaining the vehicle and therefore the warranty will not cover the replacement of the engine.

[xXlowkotaXx]

nelsonkn1, that's exactly what ended up happening. First it was a blockage in the radiator, then after they replaced the radiator they literally had it for FIVE days trying to figure out why they couldn't keep it from running hot. Then they finally told me the head was warped and had to be replaced. Luckily that was covered under the warranty. Then a week after getting it back it started leaking oil out of the top of the engine. Took it back there and this time they had to replace the oil cooler, which also was under warranty. Since then I've had no issues with it. But on the bright side they only charged me 1/2 on the labor for the radiator because I told them from the beginning that I didn't think it was the radiator and if they replace it and it's not the issue I don't see why I should pay it. I don't think the fact that it took them almost a week just to figure out why it was running hot helped their case anyway.

Edited August 14, 2015 by xXlowkotaXx

[jkeaton]

I have a 2013 Journey that I bought used July 2015. Last week, the vehicle made a strange noise, when I came to a stop light the vehicle quit. It would not start back up, after approx 1 hour, the vehicle started up and a message came up that the engine oil was hot and might affect speed. I was able to move the vehicle to the side of the road. Opening the hood, noticed that the radiator cap was partially off and coolant was all over the engine. The car was towed to the dealership where I purchased it who in turn towed it to a Dodge dealership. After one week, I finally get a call and was told that coolant was found in the cylinders, obviously I was not maintaining the vehicle and therefore the warranty will not cover the replacement of the engine.

Sorry to hear of your problem. You would think someone somewhere would have noticed a partially open radiator cap. Telltale signs would be almost immediate upon vehicle reaching operating temperature. Steam, the smell of a coolant leak, etc. Yet, the vehicle was continually driven. No wonder it overheated and warped the heads.

[Swilkinson6]

Sorry to hear of your problem. You would think someone somewhere would have noticed a partially open radiator cap. Telltale signs would be almost immediate upon vehicle reaching operating temperature. Steam, the smell of a coolant leak, etc. Yet, the vehicle was continually driven. No wonder it overheated and warped the heads.

Granted, somebody somewhere should have noticed a partially opened radiator cap, however I did not have issues with the car overheating, signs such as steam or even the temperature gauge indicating the car was running hot. When I purchased the vehicle one year ago, a coolant flush had been completed. Last week, when the car shut down, I drove the vehicle 15 miles, highway speed. I thought I smelled coolant, although the temperature gauge indicated the vehicle was running at normal temperature, I took the first exit to go a service station and that is when the vehicle shut down. At that time, there was no steam or any indication as to what I would assume the vehicle had overheated. The first place the vehicle had been towed to, told me that I might have blown a plug and once he got into it, is when he discovered coolant in the cylinder, which would be covered under the Dodge warranty and the vehicle had to be towed to a Dodge dealership. The dealership is now saying coolant is in all 4 cylinders, asking for maintenance records (which I have)...I am not a mechanic...but I do know how to take care of my vehicles.